broken brake line help

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Old 10-18-2014, 01:08 PM
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broken brake line help

I broke a brake line putting in a new master cylinder.

I can not get the bolt out to replace the old brake line, must be rusted in solid (I even tried heating the bolt up with a cigar torch lighter). So I was hoping to a compression fitting to attach what's left of the old line to a new line (3/16th).

After using a pipe cutter to make the old line a clean cut, I realized that I can't fit the barrel-shaped inside part of the over the old brake line because it has like a plastic coating on it making it a hair to thick.

Any suggestions? It would be very hard to flare the old line for space reasons.
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:08 PM
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What does this brake line connect to - the master cylinder at one end? What's at the other end?

Truck details, please.
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
What does this brake line connect to - the master cylinder at one end? What's at the other end?

Truck details, please.
Thanks. I have a 2002 XLT V8, 4.6.

Sorry, I'm a noob so I don't know the part name (proportioning valve??) but the bolt that is stuck (so I can't remove the brake line) goes into some box (opposite side as what screws into the master cylinder).
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:41 PM
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A compression fitting is a bad thing on a brake line. Don't do it, fix it right.
 
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastbob
A compression fitting is a bad thing on a brake line. Don't do it, fix it right.
Ill have to get it towed then, because I can't remove the old one (bolts rusted solid)
 
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:26 AM
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I don't recommend this, but you could use a compression fitting to get it to a shop. Just get it fixed properly right away.
 
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:39 AM
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Have you tried soaking it repeatedly with PB Blaster?
 
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, I've never seen a compression fitting hold the pressure these brake systems can produce.

Best bet is to run a new line farther down to an area that's easier to work in, assuming it's a line that does have an area that's easier to work in.

-Steve
 
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by claudale
Thanks. I have a 2002 XLT V8, 4.6.

Sorry, I'm a noob so I don't know the part name (proportioning valve??) but the bolt that is stuck (so I can't remove the brake line) goes into some box (opposite side as what screws into the master cylinder).

I don't think the 2002 trucks had prop valves.

Are you just referring to the tube nut that is stuck in the MC?

The "box" you talk about is probably the ABS module, right?

It should be a fairly short line between the MC and the ABS. I would recommend replacing the entire section of line - a good brake shop could bend it to fit and flare the ends.

There is no point in slapping some bandaids on the old line... its not worth risking a 1/2 system failure (loosing half your brakes) if the bandaid falls off.
 
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:09 PM
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Ooh, I missed the post where he actually mentioned the year. That should be the ABS pump and you want to be real careful there because things get very expensive if you damage that.

-Steve
 
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tasca Ford Parts
Ooh, I missed the post where he actually mentioned the year. That should be the ABS pump and you want to be real careful there because things get very expensive if you damage that.

-Steve
You ain't kidding - $375 on Ebay for a "new take-off". Hate to see how much you are getting for a new OEM in the box. Fordparts.com wants almost 8 bills.
 
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:16 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. And good point about the abs.

Fastbob - I would do the temporary compression fitting bit I cant fit the barrel part over my broken brake line. It has a plastic coating and is a little too fat

Glc - I have not tried pb blaster, I tried wd40 rust release penetrant. I dont see how I could "soak" it, I just have sprayed it a few times
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:32 AM
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WD-40 doesn't do squat compared to PB Blaster.
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by glc
WD-40 doesn't do squat compared to PB Blaster.
Ok, ill try it, thanks. This was a different kind of wd40 so I thought it may be better
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:07 PM
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Try cutting the line nearly flush if you can get a socket on it. That should give you a lot more leverage. Once on, you can tap the wrench with a hammer to try and break it loose. Once broken loose, rock the nut back and forth a few times to remove it. By using a 6-point socket, there is minimal risk of rounding the nut.

You can get a piece of brake line and bend it yourself.
 


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