2WD front rotor removal?
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I dont remember off the top of my head, but is the hub/bearing assembly separate from the rotor?
If so you should not have to remove that 36mm nut. The rotor should just slide off over the lugs. Granite its very common for them to have some rust and what not that does not allow it to just slide off freely, hitting it a couple times with a hammer should free it up.
If so you should not have to remove that 36mm nut. The rotor should just slide off over the lugs. Granite its very common for them to have some rust and what not that does not allow it to just slide off freely, hitting it a couple times with a hammer should free it up.
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I snapped a swivel head breaker bar and had to get a solid one. So look for something like that. The longer the handle the more force you will be able to get on it.
I ended up getting something like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...x/DSCF4686.jpg Just the bar... dunno what that other part is.
You might want to look around for a piece of pipe or a long metal tube you can put over the breaker bar to make the handle longer and be able to create more force.
Like I said early, the breaker bar and pipe combo worked for me but it wasn't easy. I was standing and pushing on the pipe with all my body weight (200lbs if you are curious!)
Good luck!
I ended up getting something like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...x/DSCF4686.jpg Just the bar... dunno what that other part is.
You might want to look around for a piece of pipe or a long metal tube you can put over the breaker bar to make the handle longer and be able to create more force.
Like I said early, the breaker bar and pipe combo worked for me but it wasn't easy. I was standing and pushing on the pipe with all my body weight (200lbs if you are curious!)
Good luck!
Last edited by l337viton; 06-04-2010 at 07:04 PM.
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If you put everything together that tight around something that's supposed to spin relatively freely, you're gonna' create ridiculous amounts of friction, drag, and heat. This will not only wear out the bearings and other parts quicker than normal, but you'll also waste energy (read: lower performance and gas mileage).
Spindle nuts should be installed hand tight until you feel some resistance to turning, then stop it up with the keeper and cotter pin. Don't overdo it. It shouldn't be "tight" at all; I didn't even put a wrench on mine.
#13
280 ft-lb ?! You're gonna' kill those bearings!
If you put everything together that tight around something that's supposed to spin relatively freely, you're gonna' create ridiculous amounts of friction, drag, and heat. This will not only wear out the bearings and other parts quicker than normal, but you'll also waste energy (read: lower performance and gas mileage).
Spindle nuts should be installed hand tight until you feel some resistance to turning, then stop it up with the keeper and cotter pin. Don't overdo it. It shouldn't be "tight" at all; I didn't even put a wrench on mine.
If you put everything together that tight around something that's supposed to spin relatively freely, you're gonna' create ridiculous amounts of friction, drag, and heat. This will not only wear out the bearings and other parts quicker than normal, but you'll also waste energy (read: lower performance and gas mileage).
Spindle nuts should be installed hand tight until you feel some resistance to turning, then stop it up with the keeper and cotter pin. Don't overdo it. It shouldn't be "tight" at all; I didn't even put a wrench on mine.
__________________
Jim
Jim
#14
But if you guys are sure, have at it... Best cheater I've found is a 6' length of 2"x4" metal tubing over a 1/2" drive ratchet. Put 50 lb of force on the end and you'll have your 280 lb-ft, plus a little extra. Just make sure it's Craftsman; if you break it, they'll replace it.
#15
I guess not if you're really supposed to torque something that high. It must have crush sleeves or something for that much torque to be required. I've never heard of that with any spindle setup.
But if you guys are sure, have at it... Best cheater I've found is a 6' length of 2"x4" metal tubing over a 1/2" drive ratchet. Put 50 lb of force on the end and you'll have your 280 lb-ft, plus a little extra. Just make sure it's Craftsman; if you break it, they'll replace it.
But if you guys are sure, have at it... Best cheater I've found is a 6' length of 2"x4" metal tubing over a 1/2" drive ratchet. Put 50 lb of force on the end and you'll have your 280 lb-ft, plus a little extra. Just make sure it's Craftsman; if you break it, they'll replace it.
Those spindle nuts are supposed to be one use only as well. When I replaced my rotors i ordered new ones but I didn't receive them on time so i reused to old ones. Haven't had an issue yet, but since I have new spindles nuts already I'll probably install them next time I find myself having to remove the spindle nut (LIFT!)