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  #1  
Old 06-04-2010, 12:44 PM
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2WD front rotor removal?

so ive gotten all of the brake components off, except for a (what seems to be unremovable) 36mm bolt which ive broken 2 wrenches trying to remove.... anyone know how to get it off?? :o
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:53 PM
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I dont remember off the top of my head, but is the hub/bearing assembly separate from the rotor?
If so you should not have to remove that 36mm nut. The rotor should just slide off over the lugs. Granite its very common for them to have some rust and what not that does not allow it to just slide off freely, hitting it a couple times with a hammer should free it up.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:00 PM
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it is for the 4wd, but not the 2wd. the new rotors i ordered came with the hub attached as well, so its gotta come off lol

unless i can just cut the whole thing off....
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:39 PM
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recommend an impact on it...hit it with some penetrating fluid and just sit on it till it budges!
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:02 PM
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I used a breaker bar along with a 4 ft piece of metal pipe.. gave me roughly a 5 ft wrench

It was still difficult to remove...
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:54 PM
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thanks for all the help guys
i guess ill have to go at it again tmrw morning lol

btw, do yall have any recommendations on what wrench i should get now? i snapped the other one in half XD
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:02 PM
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I snapped a swivel head breaker bar and had to get a solid one. So look for something like that. The longer the handle the more force you will be able to get on it.

I ended up getting something like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...x/DSCF4686.jpg Just the bar... dunno what that other part is.

You might want to look around for a piece of pipe or a long metal tube you can put over the breaker bar to make the handle longer and be able to create more force.

Like I said early, the breaker bar and pipe combo worked for me but it wasn't easy. I was standing and pushing on the pipe with all my body weight (200lbs if you are curious!)


Good luck!

Last edited by l337viton; 06-04-2010 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:11 PM
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haha 200 lbs isnt too far off from me, i should be able to do it then i hope.... thanks again, ill definatly be visiting oreileys in the morning . the rotors will be put in!!!
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:43 AM
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what 36 mm bolt? are you talking about the nut that is holding the bearings in place? if so take the cotter key out and turn it off with your fingers........they are only put on finger tight!
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:36 PM
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The spindle nut needs to come out. It is not hand tightned, but it does have a cotter pin. If I recall correctly it must be torqued to like 280ft/lbs
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:55 PM
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well i managed to get them off, and put the new rotors on.... they're beautifull

but i slept in this morning so i didnt have the time to finish the rear rotors today... but thats why we have 3 day weekends right?
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l337viton View Post
The spindle nut needs to come out. It is not hand tightned, but it does have a cotter pin. If I recall correctly it must be torqued to like 280ft/lbs
280 ft-lb ?! You're gonna' kill those bearings!

If you put everything together that tight around something that's supposed to spin relatively freely, you're gonna' create ridiculous amounts of friction, drag, and heat. This will not only wear out the bearings and other parts quicker than normal, but you'll also waste energy (read: lower performance and gas mileage).

Spindle nuts should be installed hand tight until you feel some resistance to turning, then stop it up with the keeper and cotter pin. Don't overdo it. It shouldn't be "tight" at all; I didn't even put a wrench on mine.
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucfperspicere View Post
280 ft-lb ?! You're gonna' kill those bearings!

If you put everything together that tight around something that's supposed to spin relatively freely, you're gonna' create ridiculous amounts of friction, drag, and heat. This will not only wear out the bearings and other parts quicker than normal, but you'll also waste energy (read: lower performance and gas mileage).

Spindle nuts should be installed hand tight until you feel some resistance to turning, then stop it up with the keeper and cotter pin. Don't overdo it. It shouldn't be "tight" at all; I didn't even put a wrench on mine.
I don't think you have seen the setup for the 2004 up 4x2 rotors. All the conventional wisdom does not apply.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluejay View Post
I don't think you have seen the setup for the 2004 up 4x2 rotors. All the conventional wisdom does not apply.
I guess not if you're really supposed to torque something that high. It must have crush sleeves or something for that much torque to be required. I've never heard of that with any spindle setup.

But if you guys are sure, have at it... Best cheater I've found is a 6' length of 2"x4" metal tubing over a 1/2" drive ratchet. Put 50 lb of force on the end and you'll have your 280 lb-ft, plus a little extra. Just make sure it's Craftsman; if you break it, they'll replace it.
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2010, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucfperspicere View Post
I guess not if you're really supposed to torque something that high. It must have crush sleeves or something for that much torque to be required. I've never heard of that with any spindle setup.

But if you guys are sure, have at it... Best cheater I've found is a 6' length of 2"x4" metal tubing over a 1/2" drive ratchet. Put 50 lb of force on the end and you'll have your 280 lb-ft, plus a little extra. Just make sure it's Craftsman; if you break it, they'll replace it.
I am sure. I replaced my own rotors a while back. Wouldn't comment if I wasn't sure

Those spindle nuts are supposed to be one use only as well. When I replaced my rotors i ordered new ones but I didn't receive them on time so i reused to old ones. Haven't had an issue yet, but since I have new spindles nuts already I'll probably install them next time I find myself having to remove the spindle nut (LIFT!)
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:27 PM


 
 
 
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