New Brake lines, New Master Brake Cylinder, now no pressure
#16
05-10-2010, 09:20 AM
Thanks Jbrew!
A few things....
Yea the aluminum block you that is attacked by a hard line to the master cylinder. Is there a specific name where I see if parts stores carry it or find it online?
I'm leaking right the lowest part on that block. From factory it had a really long fitting on it, we just used a regular brake line fitting. Not sure why they used such long fitting. Your's looks long too in the pic. I tried posting a pic pointing to the items but I can't post pics.
didn't see an option for it.
I"m talking about the line that goes to the rear..it's attached to the lowest part of the proporioning valve.
hopefully I'll be able to find one at a local yard or that they are cheap enouph to pick up at a parts store.
It has a wiring harnes to it on the bottom...figured it was abs related.
Thoughts, suggestions. I know I'm leaking there when you press the brake pedal, not when just sitting there but it does leak good when you press the pedal.
Thanks again for all the help Jbrew.
A few things....
Yea the aluminum block you that is attacked by a hard line to the master cylinder. Is there a specific name where I see if parts stores carry it or find it online?
I'm leaking right the lowest part on that block. From factory it had a really long fitting on it, we just used a regular brake line fitting. Not sure why they used such long fitting. Your's looks long too in the pic. I tried posting a pic pointing to the items but I can't post pics.
didn't see an option for it.I"m talking about the line that goes to the rear..it's attached to the lowest part of the proporioning valve.
hopefully I'll be able to find one at a local yard or that they are cheap enouph to pick up at a parts store.
It has a wiring harnes to it on the bottom...figured it was abs related.
Thoughts, suggestions. I know I'm leaking there when you press the brake pedal, not when just sitting there but it does leak good when you press the pedal.
Thanks again for all the help Jbrew.
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You can't post pics until you make a gallery.
#17
05-10-2010, 09:21 AM
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Nope, it's the RABS (abs stuff).....you were posting when I was as well.
I have a feeling this parts is going to cost.
Sure hope i can find one used.
Just dont feel I can retap the fitting to make it work. Specially when it comes to brakes.
Thanks again.
I have a feeling this parts is going to cost.
Sure hope i can find one used.
Just dont feel I can retap the fitting to make it work. Specially when it comes to brakes.
Thanks again.
#18
05-10-2010, 09:31 AM
Yea, I had that apart but I didn't pull those two actuators from the the valve because they were pretty corroded, even after cleanup. If I was to still have a problem after I completed, I would have tried a little harder to locate a new valve complete.
I'm not sure if you can re-tap that either and then find a fitting that fit properly lol.
Well , good luck, - feel free to PM with questions, I'll see it quicker thru PM's.
I'm not sure if you can re-tap that either and then find a fitting that fit properly lol.
Well , good luck, - feel free to PM with questions, I'll see it quicker thru PM's.
#19
05-10-2010, 09:37 AM
Oh, by the way -
Yea, it's referred to as the modulator valve as well - $ 171. So yea, might want to try the salvage for that one lol.
_______________________________
Hard to read, here's the important stuff -
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes
Modulator Valve
Parts Information OEM Part # 6L3Z2B373A Price = $171.18
Yea, it's referred to as the modulator valve as well - $ 171. So yea, might want to try the salvage for that one lol.
_______________________________
Hard to read, here's the important stuff -
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes
Modulator Valve
Parts Information OEM Part # 6L3Z2B373A Price = $171.18
Last edited by jbrew; 05-10-2010 at 09:42 AM.
#20
05-10-2010, 12:26 PM
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wow... guess its been a busy weekend and I have been away... looks like maybe the problem has been found?
Yes, that thing on the booster (blue in your pictures) is a check valve.
It might be leaking... which would cause a hard pedal when the truck is off... but no, that is not his problem.
A bad check valve can never make the pedal drop... it can only make the pedal hard (if it has a bad external leak on the check valve there will be no vacuum in the booster and the pedal will be hard)
What did you spray WD40 into??? You have to be careful what you spray around the booster and master cylinder. The MC seals are always EPDM rubber, the booster seals are usually EPDM (sometimes they are SBR rubber). WD40 won't publish what they put in the can... but if its mineral oil based it will trash EPDM very quickly. The mineral oil will cause the EPDM to swell up and then the seals are destroyed.
So... if you sprayed it into the MC it could be a major cause for concern.
But I'm not sure what WD40 is made of... do you have an extra reservoir cap laying around (from when you changed MCs?) Try hosing down the diaphragm with WD40 and see if it swells up...
It might be leaking... which would cause a hard pedal when the truck is off... but no, that is not his problem.
A bad check valve can never make the pedal drop... it can only make the pedal hard (if it has a bad external leak on the check valve there will be no vacuum in the booster and the pedal will be hard)
So... if you sprayed it into the MC it could be a major cause for concern.
But I'm not sure what WD40 is made of... do you have an extra reservoir cap laying around (from when you changed MCs?) Try hosing down the diaphragm with WD40 and see if it swells up...
#21
05-10-2010, 06:18 PM
#22
05-11-2010, 12:10 PM
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#23
12-31-2012, 08:50 AM
