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  #1  
Old 01-13-2010, 05:40 PM
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Cant break rear drum loose

I am trying to replace a wheel brake cylinder on the driver side of my 93 f150, and i cant get the drum off. I have had drums stick on me before but ive always been able to get them free. I beat this thing to death with a 2 foot long 4x4 and it still wont budge. I look in my haynes manual and it said to take a cover off the back side of the hub to access to star piece to retract the shoes. In the book it says theres a locking mechanism that locks the star adjuster. It doesnt exist on mine, but the adjuster still wont move. Im pretty sure that the drum is stuck to the axle, i can pull on it and it will move just a little but i notice that the lug nut studs always move with it. I have beat to death and used a bunch of penetrating oil, Any suggestions on what else might work?
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  #2  
Old 01-13-2010, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by del1650 View Post
I am trying to replace a wheel brake cylinder on the driver side of my 93 f150, and i cant get the drum off. I have had drums stick on me before but ive always been able to get them free. I beat this thing to death with a 2 foot long 4x4 and it still wont budge. I look in my haynes manual and it said to take a cover off the back side of the hub to access to star piece to retract the shoes. In the book it says theres a locking mechanism that locks the star adjuster. It doesnt exist on mine, but the adjuster still wont move. Im pretty sure that the drum is stuck to the axle, i can pull on it and it will move just a little but i notice that the lug nut studs always move with it. I have beat to death and used a bunch of penetrating oil, Any suggestions on what else might work?
i usually clank it with a huge metal mallet till she breaks loose..you can also use a small pry bar and work your way around the back part...and if that don't work I dunno...lol
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  #3  
Old 01-13-2010, 05:52 PM
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grimace1100 grimace1100
I use a BFH. If that won't work, I put the wheel back on and tighten the lugs only finger tight. Then drive the truck forward about 10 feet then reverse. One of these usually works. Make sure you stay CLEAR of the studs if using a BFH.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:21 PM
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ty.barnwell.9 tybarnwell08
heat it with a torch! i normally beat it with a hammer...she will come off!
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:31 PM
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Are you sure you can't get the star wheel to move? It's what pushes the pads against the drum. You need to loosen that star wheel. You can do it with a screw driver. Get a flash light if needed.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:37 PM
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I used a flashlight and tried to move the adjuster with a screwdriver but it wont move. the book shows a locking mechanism but i cant see it anywhere. I used the screwdriver to feel around where the book shows it but its not there.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:46 PM
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ty.barnwell.9 tybarnwell08
yea you have to lift up the locking mechanism then turn the starwheel..but you should be able to get the drum off anyway
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:30 PM
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Bring out the BFH! I don't know what you have for resources, but if you can, heating it up would probably work best.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:57 PM
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I know that if i break out the BFH that its probably gonna destroy the drum, thats why i have done it yet, ive just used a 4x4 and hit it with that. But id say its best to just replace the drum anyways. Hard telling when it was removed last
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:58 PM
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Hit the star with a screw driver and hammer.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by canadian_screw View Post
I use a BFH. If that won't work, I put the wheel back on and tighten the lugs only finger tight. Then drive the truck forward about 10 feet then reverse. One of these usually works. Make sure you stay CLEAR of the studs if using a BFH.
I actually do this also, but leave a bit more space and swerve left and right, usually takes no time before they break loose. No speeding or nothing, just enough to be rolling, 5 mph or something.

Wait a minute, you said the studs move with it, that can't be good. The axle shaft should not move in and out or wobble any, should be good and solid. Keep at the adjuster star and pry bars, it takes time but they'll come off. I'd be checking the axle/bearing/ or anything making the axle move in ways it shouldn't.

Last edited by BLUE20004X4; 01-14-2010 at 09:57 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:25 AM
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Wait a minute, you said the studs move with it, that can't be good. The axle shaft should not move in and out or wobble any, should be good and solid. Keep at the adjuster star and pry bars, it takes time but they'll come off. I'd be checking the axle/bearing/ or anything making the axle move in ways it shouldn't.
Its not really any amount of movement, Just a small click but i can still notice that the studs move with it.
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2010, 11:56 AM
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The easiest way to get one off is to use a big gear-puller. We used this on my Dad's car and it popped the rotors right off. (they had been stuck quite tight)

Beating it with a hammer makes it unlikely you can re-use the drum, if it is still good to begin with.
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2010, 12:27 PM
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just beat the **** out of it it will come off eventually if you are replaceing it anyway who cares beat that drum off
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:33 PM
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If you don't have a 3 jaw puller go rent one from your local parts store.. its the easiest way to get it off.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:33 PM


 
 
 
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