Ok I've posted in another thread and inlcuded what the pad and rotor looks like. But I would like to know what is the best way to make sure I dont put a 5TH set of rotors on. I know I need to check the torque on lugs after any service and possibly inbetween time. Would it be a good investment to replace the calipers this time around, or am I wasting money.
What would you do?
I would start with a new rotor.
I would ensure all the rust is cleaned off the hub so the rotor sits flat on the hub.
I would spray brake cleaner on the rotor to ensure there is not grease or finger prints left on it.
I would start with a new rotor.
I would ensure all the rust is cleaned off the hub so the rotor sits flat on the hub.
I would spray brake cleaner on the rotor to ensure there is not grease or finger prints left on it.
X2. Also brakeperformance.com has lifetime warranty against warping.. maybe check them out.
well to me it sounds like he is saying he has already warped 4 other rotors... if that is the case i wouldnt be looking at just replacing the rotors.
Yes, you have to look at why or how did he warp the rotors. I think he did not take care to ensure there were on straight and clean. It is one thing to rule out. What other possibilities can you think of?
[quote=wedge40;3946185]Ok experts. Explain what caused this and how do I make sure it doesn't happen again. I know these rotors are warped, or at least one of them is.
Are my pad and rotors suppose to look like this?
well your first problem is drilled rotors. i dont even like using slotted rotors, but drilled and slotted is a bad combo. they warp easily. all those slots do is make the rotor more prone to warping. it hurts the structual integrity of the rotor. sure it can make less heat on the rotor and pads while breaking... but remember, if you have a stuck caliper, it will heat up the rotor just the same as any other rotor, and since those are more prone to warpage, they warp faster.
i see in your other thread that your last 2 sets were drilled and slotted.
go with oem or normal rotors. drilled and slotted are gay. slotted is ok, theres some heat loss there, and theres some reduced pad wear... but with your possible stuck caliper... your just allowing the rotor to warp much sooner.
take your wheels of on the sides that keep warping. take the caliper off. check the piston by compressing it with a c clamp. push on the brakes to extend it. compress it again.
check the slides for stuckness, corrosion, and proper lube. i pop them out, fill slots they go in all the way up with slide lube, then lube the slide, then pop the slide in. this makes alot of lube pop out the other end. just catch it with your finger, and push it in the other side so you dont waste it. this will insure your packed full and well with grease.
i would check all 4 corners.
slides and caliper pistons are often overlooked when done in the driveway. most people dont even really look into rotors until they show major wear. they also dont even lube the backside of the pads when needed.
Last edited by speepdaedeesi; 11-02-2009 at 05:55 PM.
well your first problem is drilled rotors. i dont even like using slotted rotors, but drilled and slotted is a bad combo. they warp easily. all those slots do is make the rotor more prone to warping. it hurts the structual integrity of the rotor. sure it can make less heat on the rotor and pads while breaking... but remember, if you have a stuck caliper, it will heat up the rotor just the same as any other rotor, and since those are more prone to warpage, they warp faster.
i see in your other thread that your last 2 sets were drilled and slotted.
go with oem or normal rotors. drilled and slotted are gay. slotted is ok, theres some heat loss there, and theres some reduced pad wear... but with your possible stuck caliper... your just allowing the rotor to warp much sooner.
take your wheels of on the sides that keep warping. take the caliper off. check the piston by compressing it with a c clamp. push on the brakes to extend it. compress it again.
check the slides for stuckness, corrosion, and proper lube. i pop them out, fill slots they go in all the way up with slide lube, then lube the slide, then pop the slide in. this makes alot of lube pop out the other end. just catch it with your finger, and push it in the other side so you dont waste it. this will insure your packed full and well with grease.
i would check all 4 corners.
slides and caliper pistons are often overlooked when done in the driveway. most people dont even really look into rotors until they show major wear. they also dont even lube the backside of the pads when needed.
Thanks for the replay and taking the time to find my other thread. I've already got a set of replacement rotors (slotted). I will reassembly using your method and grease the snot out of the slides. I will also make sure the metal on the hub behind the rotor is clean and free of dirt and debris.
The truck is a secondary vehicle and in the summer doesn't see much use, I try and drive it every couple of weekends. In the winter I drive it pretty much all the time.
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set of rotors on. I know I need to check the torque on lugs after any service and possibly inbetween time. Would it be a good investment to replace the calipers this time around, or am I wasting money.
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