So my brakes are beginning to squeak slightly.
I called around and was actually stunned at how much it'll cost to replace just the pads.
So, can anyone help me with what all is replaced when you go in for a standard brake pad replacement? Its just pads isn't it? Guess I'm wrong or they're out to get my money!
What do you think is cheaper buying the pads then having them installed, or just going to a place and let them put what they want on?
So my brakes are beginning to squeak slightly.
I called around and was actually stunned at how much it'll cost to replace just the pads.
So, can anyone help me with what all is replaced when you go in for a standard brake pad replacement? Its just pads isn't it? Guess I'm wrong or they're out to get my money!
What do you think is cheaper buying the pads then having them installed, or just going to a place and let them put what they want on?
It is so easy and far better to do them yourself. Did my fronts yesterday.
__________________
Jim
Flowmaster 40, K&N dropin, Tint, Roush wheels, 305/50/20s
Edge Evo with PHP custom tunes, GF 2" shackles
So you went with the exact same TQs correct? How did the old ones with 80k on them look compared to the brand new ones?
I was shocked at how much pad I had left at 82,000 miles. Maybe 1/4? Still had the groove down the middle. Stealth was there and saw them. However, the new pads feel so much better. The full pedal is back, no squeaking in the pedal travel, and I know I have good brakes again.
I would have gone a little longer, but the dealer told me I needed pads when I had the tires rotated. I bet I could have gone 100,000 before changing them.
__________________
Jim
Flowmaster 40, K&N dropin, Tint, Roush wheels, 305/50/20s
Edge Evo with PHP custom tunes, GF 2" shackles
it looks like fun (no sarcasm) but I dont have the time to do it myself this time around, that and I dont have any jacks or channel locks that big.
So would it be any cheaper on the wallet if I bought my own pads and just had someone install them?
That just depends on who you find to do it. Some places won't do that at all, some will charge you extra for what they lose on parts, and some will charge you just a flat labor rate. If it were me, I would buy the pads myself because I would want them to use a certain brand that they probably would not use otherwise. It's ok to shop the best deal, but brakes are not something to really scrimp on.
__________________
Jim
Flowmaster 40, K&N dropin, Tint, Roush wheels, 305/50/20s
Edge Evo with PHP custom tunes, GF 2" shackles
So my brakes are beginning to squeak slightly.
I called around and was actually stunned at how much it'll cost to replace just the pads.
So, can anyone help me with what all is replaced when you go in for a standard brake pad replacement? Its just pads isn't it? Guess I'm wrong or they're out to get my money!
What do you think is cheaper buying the pads then having them installed, or just going to a place and let them put what they want on?
If you know a few things about cars and have done a brake job before, try it yourself. Even pick up a Chilton or Haynes manual for reference. I can guid you through it step by step or add to that write up mentioned if I hadn't already. PM me if you need specifics. I would get myself Carquest "blue" series of pad, ceramic or semi-metallic- whatever you're wanting to spend plus some rotors. If your rotors don't vibrate under braking and look good, have the parts house turn them for you. Wagner thermoquiets are another very popular choice. Make sure you don't have a leak on the calipers also. You'd be wise to search more on here to pick up little bits of added info.
Sorry, just read further on how you don't have time, ok, do a bit of research. Ask what pads they use and how much. They won't be more if any for pads usually, labor is the $$$.
Last edited by BLUE20004X4; 10-27-2009 at 11:12 AM.
I was shocked at how much pad I had left at 82,000 miles. Maybe 1/4? Still had the groove down the middle. Stealth was there and saw them. However, the new pads feel so much better. The full pedal is back, no squeaking in the pedal travel, and I know I have good brakes again.
I would have gone a little longer, but the dealer told me I needed pads when I had the tires rotated. I bet I could have gone 100,000 before changing them.
Thats pretty sweet. Well I look forward to a long life of these TQs. I might sell/trade in for a newer truck before they are worn in probably lol.
Got the inspection done this morning, brake pads are still at half-life, said the squeaking from the brakes probably came from the rust dots on the rotor popping and pit the brake pad or something. Probably going to have to go with rotors and pads next 15000 miles though. I'm planning on giving that a try myself when it comes about
I was shocked at how much pad I had left at 82,000 miles. Maybe 1/4? Still had the groove down the middle. Stealth was there and saw them. However, the new pads feel so much better. The full pedal is back, no squeaking in the pedal travel, and I know I have good brakes again.
I would have gone a little longer, but the dealer told me I needed pads when I had the tires rotated. I bet I could have gone 100,000 before changing them.
I'm in the market for new pads and rotors. I have the Wagner semi metallic TQ pads for my 05 FX4 in the shopping cart at Rockauto. How are the Wagner Rotors and which ones for my truck?
My buddy attempted to get a set of brake pads at the Bumper to Bumper parts store and the guy said that for the 2004 f-150 there are two different types of brake pads listed. Apparently the only way for me to find out which of the two I need is to take off the current pads and see what they look like. Anyone have this problem?? Its a 2004 Lariat (not heritage).
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