Ok, I don't haul much and when I do it's usually under 500lbs.
I drive what I consider normal. Anticipate stops and slow down before hand etc.
I'm on my third set of brakes AND routors. The last two have been drilled and slotted yet they still warped. I'm getting ready to do it one more time, but before I do I'd like to hear from the folks here about which rotors to buy and if I should maybe change the calipers this time. Last time I had to change the routers because one pad had worn through and dug a gouge in the rotor.
This a pretty easy job, but I'm getting tired to putting brakes on every 30K miles.
not trying to be a smart ass or rude but 150/3=50k, so did your original set last more than 30k and after they were replaced they started wearing faster?
do you always have your rotors done when you replace pads?
Drilling eats up pads and is needed only if you do hard stopping necessitating heat reduction, such as mountain towing or racing. Get a good pad and good plain old rotor. I have 82,000 miles on my Wagner ThermoQuiets. I am running Rabestos rotors that were replaced at 41,000 due to bad bearings. The rotors are not worn at all.
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Also, if your biggest problem is warped rotors, make sure you torque your lug nuts to the proper ft lbs. In your case 150 ft. lbs. Unevenly torqued lug nuts will cause the rotors to warp as they heat and cool.
I put a full set of RotorPro slotted only on and NAPA Adaptive One pads on and I absolutly LOVE them. They sell only on eBay. No noise at all, no dust and even sure stopping.
As for warping your drilled and slotted, of course that will happen. There is less metal in the rotor to hold the heat so warping will occur faster. Plenty of threads and posts here in the forums about that. Stick with good blank or slotted disks and you will get better results.
The rotors run about $200 and the pads all around were about $80. Others have had real good luck with Hawk pads or the CarQuest blues.?.?.?
Also, make very sure your emergancy brake is correctly adjusted. If it drags it will heat up your rotor and warp for sure
Napa/Monroe Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction
VelveTouch- a line that Hawk just bought from Wellman Industries. VelveTouch lining has been used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years.
CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings. IIRR, I paid about $130 for my last set including shipping.
I highly recommend speaking by phone for linings that would be best for your application
With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel. Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc). I am presently running “Frozen Rotors” from Diversified Cryogenics
They purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you. Their service, price and quality is excellent as well.
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
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Also, if your biggest problem is warped rotors, make sure you torque your lug nuts to the proper ft lbs. In your case 150 ft. lbs. Unevenly torqued lug nuts will cause the rotors to warp as they heat and cool.
Bad Idea. 150 is way too much. Torque specs for the lug nuts is 135Nm or 100lb-ft.
Bad Idea. 150 is way too much. Torque specs for the lug nuts is 135Nm or 100lb-ft.
Torque is 150 ft lbs. Open your owners manual. Torque has been 150, since 2000 when Ford starting using 14mm lugs. Before that, it was 100.
Wedge 40, especially after someone does work should you re-torque. Can almost guarantee, that at best, and more likely not, the only thing they are going to use is a torque stick.
Last edited by kingfish51; 10-21-2009 at 08:12 PM.
For my truck (2004) you are correct. The manual and Alldata both say 150lb-ft. I can't check the manual for a 2001, but Alldata says 100lb-ft for a 2001 F150.
Alldata is incorrect. I had a 2001, 150 ft lbs was in the manual. If you would like to look it up, www.motorcraftservice.com, you can download any owners manual back to 96.
Went online and ordered Power Slot Power Alloy Cryo-Treated Rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads. Should be next week and maybe next weekend I can get them on the truck.
I'm working on 40K on my pads and rotors. I buy the plain rotors and high quality pad, all from NAPA. Its a good combo for me, no noise and plenty of stopping power.
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