I have a 1996 F150 and I had to replace the drivers side axle bearing. Well, since doing so, the drivers side wheel has been locking down after driving the vehicle. I have had to climb under the truck and back out the auto adjuster in order to be able to drive the vehicle. Anyone know why this self adjuster would be adjusting to the point of locking the wheel down? And why would it start after replacing that side bearing?

Also, does anyone know of a web site that I can view a micro fish or an exploded view of that brake assembly to ensure I have everything back in place? Is there one on here, I am new here. Thanks for any help.

JM

 

Click my signature link & look in the Brakes & Hubs album. The drum stuff is about halfway down the page. The captions explain everything you want to know, & more.

Check your e-brake cables - they often bind up & stick, causing the brakes to lock. Aftermarket new replacement cable assemblies are only ~$25ea w/LLT warranty at most parts stores.

 

Thanks, but, would the E brake make the self adjuster, adjust the brake outward?

Thanks for the link.

 

When you replaced the axle bearing was it because the seal failed. Gear oil impregnated in the shoes will cause the symptoms you are experiencing too.

As the brake gets hot the oil comes top the surface and caused the brake to lock up or drag...you might need to replace the brake shoes.

 

JoJ
Yes, if you study those diagrams, you can see that ANYTHING (including the e-brake) that makes the shoes move out CAN operate the autoadjuster.

But if the cable is sticking, the autoadjuster isn't important - the brakes can lock just because the cable is holding them out.

CO
Oil is the opposite of brakes, so I don't follow your logic.

 

I will look to see if that cable is my problem, thanks. And I changed the pads after I replaced the bearing.

 

I can't explain why, but once brake shoes get contaminated with gear oil they are prone to locking up...even after cleaning the brake lining surface and drum surface.....I've only seen it a couple of dozen times....usually on GM light duty trucks from '88-'98...these are the years that commonly had axle seal failures.

The only fix was to replace the linings(shoes).

 

I agree that any brake lining that has been contaminated with oil needs to be replaced, but I've never heard of the brakes grabbing or locking due to oil.


...and I've trashed & replaced my share of rear axle seals.

 

Well, I looked at the E brake and all looks okay there. Here are a few photo's, can anyone see anything wrong from them?


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...o/PC170008.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...o/PC170007.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...o/PC170006.jpg

 

Everything looks okay as far as i can tell, but do yourself a favor and save some head scratching and do a complete brake job. Go to your parts place, ask the guy for new wheel cylinders, new pads(unless your absolutely certain their clean), and a new spring kit as old as they look they're probably not doing their job 100%. Your problem to me sounds more like a sticking wheel cylinder and weak springs than contanimation. Just to double check your work take off your right tire and compare it to your left side brakes.

And if that doesn't work somehow the e-brake adjuster got screwed up, spend some serious time checking those diagrams, even a small misplacement can totally screw it up, i speak from experience. I didn't fully seat a rangers ebrake cable on the rest seat that goes around the springs and had to redo after the brake didnt engage, not good on a stick shift.

Edit: I hit brilliance i didn't think about earlier today. What shape are your star wheels and retainer tabs in? i just worked on a honda that had rounded,poor condition star wheels, they wouldn't grab and when you hit the brakes in reverse the wheels would lock up, the retainer wouldn't stop the star wheel from spinning, that would also cause the problems you're describing, but only if they work fine in drive, and lock up in reverse. I almost forgot, welcome to the forum.

 

As I suggested before, your e-brake cables ARE stuck. See how the lever is exposed? It should be fully hidden behind the brake shoe.




The star wheel doesn't just "spin". The autoadjuster pawl has to rise far enough to hook the next tooth before the wheel can turn, and the pawl can only rise if the shoes are worn enough to NEED another click.

 

Both sides look like this however, this one side is the wheel that is adjusting out making the tire lock up. Is there a way to oil the cable or anything or will just need to be replaced?

 

Lubricating the cables is a MAINTENANCE procedure - not a repair. Once they've started binding, they can only be replaced. See post #2 in this thread.