One worn Brake pad

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Old 05-21-2005, 10:58 AM
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Question One worn Brake pad

New Raybestos pads installed on the front of my 02' f150 4x4 last August, Strange noise this week, sounded like the wear indicator.....I'm thinking ,NO WAY my pads worn already. So when I tear it down I find the drivers side inside pad worn to the indictor, outside pad still thick, almost like new. What would cause this?
 
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Old 05-21-2005, 11:23 AM
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Found this on another site...

"A mis-aligned caliper can cause uneven wear, and unless the problem is corrected at the time of the fresh brake job, the new pads will wear in the same manner.If you do notice uneven pad wear, check the caliper for smoothness of movement.Check slides, pins, pin bushings, etc. If binding, sloppy or erratic movement is found, perform the appropriate correction before installing the new pads. In many cases (naturally, depending on the caliper design), the problem may be corrected by simply replacing the caliper pins and bushings, or by cleaning and lightly lubricating the slides with an appropriate high-temp grease.

Also, don't neglect the obvious. Check the condition and adjustment of the wheel bearings. Loose or worn bearings can be a contributing factor in erratic pad wear patterns (although bad bearings should have become obvious prior, in terms of vibrations, road wander, brake pull or noise)."


Also wanted to add if the surface of the rotor was already damaged when you put the new pads on, it could eat through a pad quick.
 
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:31 PM
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Talking

Thanks for the info, one thing I did do was lube the pins that the bolts go through that holds the rotor on, and I did get the rotors turned. Thanks again
 
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Old 05-21-2005, 04:29 PM
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One thing I have noticed living in western Pa we get a lot of rust. when replacing pads on these trucks it is necessary to remove the two stainless steel antirattle clips in the brake pad anchor support and clean the area till shiny with a small flat file then lube and re install antirattle clips and then pads, make shure that pads float freely in these clips before installing calliper.
 
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:30 PM
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are you pushing on the whole break pedal? hahah
 
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Old 05-21-2005, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chucks bp
One thing I have noticed living in western Pa we get a lot of rust. when replacing pads on these trucks it is necessary to remove the two stainless steel antirattle clips in the brake pad anchor support and clean the area till shiny with a small flat file then lube and re install antirattle clips and then pads, make shure that pads float freely in these clips before installing calliper.
Amen

An easy check is to put your c clamp on the caliper with the screw section on the outboard pad. Compress the piston about an 1/8 inch. Check that the outboard pad moves freely in it's mount. Then push the caliper in. The caliper should move freely and the inboard shoe should move with it. If not clean and lube as mentioned.
 
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:45 AM
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If just the inside pad is worn, that's generally an indication of a caliper that's not sliding at all. The only pad that's moving is the inboard pad with the pistons. I'd double-check the slide pins and/or replace them just to be sure.

-Joe
 
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
If just the inside pad is worn, that's generally an indication of a caliper that's not sliding at all. The only pad that's moving is the inboard pad with the pistons. I'd double-check the slide pins and/or replace them just to be sure.

-Joe
Also check and make sure the caliper piston is returning and not staying out when you release the brake pedal. If the square seal inside the caliper bore is damaged or bad, the piston will come out and "stick" in place which will wipe out the inside pad in short time.
 
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:04 PM
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Also, make sure that you didn't twist the brake hose up on the caliper when reinstalling it from your brake job last year. Typically, this would cause a brake pull as well, but, it's the little things that kill...
 
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Old 05-24-2005, 09:25 AM
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Thumbs up

Thanks guys for all the advice, I'm going to tear it down again in about a month to make sure all is well.
 
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Old 05-24-2005, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by GDDYUP
Also check and make sure the caliper piston is returning and not staying out when you release the brake pedal. If the square seal inside the caliper bore is damaged or bad, the piston will come out and "stick" in place which will wipe out the inside pad in short time.
You are correct that the piston can stick that way, but if that happens and the slide pins are working properly, both pads should be worn. That's why I think he's got both problems (sticky piston and sticky pins).

-Joe
 
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
You are correct that the piston can stick that way, but if that happens and the slide pins are working properly, both pads should be worn. That's why I think he's got both problems (sticky piston and sticky pins).

-Joe
Good point. When I found stuck pistons I amost always found either or both of the slides stuck.
 
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:15 PM
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you need to "anti sieze" all the pins and whatnot that is supposed to move...rust is a bad problem everywhere in the calipers..had a major problem a while back with my dump truck..cost me a antilock sensor and a major headache...fixed now but the abs lite is still on...zap!
 
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:20 PM
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Did you pop your tins out and clean the rust out from behind them??? Did you use greese behind the tins? This is an important step that most diy'ers dont do and its a very important step to do...Rob
 
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Robhollar
Did you pop your tins out and clean the rust out from behind them??? Did you use greese behind the tins? This is an important step that most diy'ers dont do and its a very important step to do...Rob
You had this same reply in another thread here.... maybe I just haven't been around long enough, but what the hey are the "tins" and what do they do?

-Joe
 

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