Can A Caliper Partially Work?

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Old 04-17-2005, 04:39 PM
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Question Can A Caliper Partially Work?

I've been trying to figure this out for quite a while. Driving around town for short distances, my brakes don't squeek at all. But after driving longer periods of time or on the HWY, they squeel while I'm driving. It's almost as though the pads are rubbing the rotor just a little too much and creating the squeel. The only thing is that I don't have excessive pad wear or pulling, or reduced braking.So, I guess my question is: What causes brakes to do this? Excessive heat due to the pads dragging? Would a slotted rotor fix this, or should the calipers be changed? Thanks for your guys' help
 
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Old 04-17-2005, 05:09 PM
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Tell the guys what kind of pads you're using and the age/mileage of them. Maybe we can come up with similar problems or pad composition evaluations.
 
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:40 PM
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Pads

At first, I had what ever pads came with the truck from the used auto dealer (unknown). After a 2400 mile trip (not towing) they began producing that squeel noise while I was driving. After the trip, I noticed the squeel, so I went to an organic pad. It started squeeling almost imimedietly. After about 600 miles of it, I changed my rotors and switched to a ceramic pad. Got the same problems all winter long, but noticed no equipment malfunction, so I kept them on until about 3 weeks ago when I took it into the brake shop. They immedietly noticed a lip on my rotor from the pad wearing on it and said that was the problem. They said that calipers either work, or they don't and it's noticable, so that wasn't the problem. They put on a good set of semi-metallic pads, turned the rotors, and re-adjusted the drums and sent me on my way. The warranty reads 2yr/2400mi on the warrantee (parts and labor). So....now the squeek is gone in the city (for the most part), but has come back after driving 20 mi or so. Let it sit overnight, or even just a couple of hours, it's gone. I'm actually an aviation mech, so this stuff isn't foreign to me, but each type of vehicle has it's own gremlins. Thanks again for the help
 
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Old 04-17-2005, 10:21 PM
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If the vehicle has enough age on it, it could be the rubber brake hose from the caliper to the steel line has softened and collapsed which does not allow the brake fluid pressure to normalize after pedal application. This causes a slight amount of pressure at the caliper piston which will hold the pad against the rotor thus causing wear as mentioned....jb
 
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Old 04-17-2005, 10:35 PM
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It could be the wheel bearings. on the highway they will get hotter than in the city.
 
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:52 AM
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Yeah, it's not the bearings beacause as you all know, they make a very distiinctive sound as opposed to a pad rubbing. I haven't really thought about the brake line yet though. I replaced one last year in august, and the vehicle doesn't pull, so I'm inclined to think that the other one is probably still good. The truck does have 114 k on it now though... Are there any preventive maintnence things I can do or check for with the caliper it's self? I'm just not sure of the key areas to check. Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-23-2005, 06:47 PM
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Unbolt the calipers and first check the slides. Make sure they move freely and then remove the pins, clean them, and lube them up good just in case. Clean everything off with brake clean and get it as clean as possible, especially on the bracket where the pad ears ride. Now have someone easily push the brake pedal down while you watch the piston. It should come out and then go back in slightly after your buddy lets off the brake. You only need enough pedal effort to move the piston, dont have your bud stuff it to the floor or you're piston will come flying out. If thats all good and you dont see any problems on either side, then put everything back together and make sure you use a good brake lube on all the parts that come in contact with each other. Put some lube on the contact points where the pads sit on the bracket and a decent amount on the back sides of both pads before you stick them back in the caliper. 80%-90% of the time you can cure brake squeaks using this method.

It only takes about an hour of time with simple hand tools and some easily available chemicals from your local auto store. Give that a shot!
 
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:08 PM
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I'm with GDDYUP for the most part.
I believe that pushing on the brake pedal with the caliper off is an accident waiting to happen.
If you need to see the piston movement do it with the caliper mounted even put worn pads on to see more movement. Check that it slides freely while your at it.

A healthy amount of brake quiet will do wonders.

The only other thought is "bedding" the new pads. Never bothered on the 98 tho and no squeeks.

Good luck.
 
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:35 PM
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Forgot about your preventitive maintenece question.
The only PM not mentioned was to flush the brake fluid completely every 4 years or so.
 
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:15 PM
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did em' all

This is what I've done so far: Brake shop flushed and replaced brake fluid, changed pads, and turned rotors. After I got it back, the brakes started their squeeling after a few days, but goes away on short drives. So, I pulled the wheels off, pulled the pins (moved amazingly great), re-lubed them, put them back in and sprayed the system down with brake cleaner. But still, the brakes get too hot to touch after driving for about 5 miles in the city without hard braking. After reading about every brake post on here, I've come to the conclusion that the 20 inch rims are just putting too much stress on the stock brakes, so I'm switching to a set of vented/cross-drilled rotors. It seems perfectly logical after reading so much on this topic. But I do have one more question for you guys: if one flex hose is good and one is bad, would it effect the whole front system? I wasn't sure if that was a possibility or not, but I bought the other line when I got the rotors just in case. You guys rock! and thank you very much for your imput!
Chris
 
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:44 PM
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No one hose should not effect the entire system. Good advice tho is to replace brake components in pairs. If one failed the other is not far behind. My dad (god rest his soul) taughrtme never to be cheap with brakes.Brake failure is not an option.
 



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