hi all new guy here. I have 1997 ford f-150 supercab w/ 4.6 V8 auto. I need and want to replace the front rotors myself. Full brake jobs are horrendously expensive and I don't have any mechanic friends. Anyway does anyone have tutorial for my year, maybe with pics as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Danny

 

A word of advice from experience - the passenger side rotor will be much more difficult to remove than the driver side - it usually gets rust-bonded to the hub.

I found out it is much easier to get the rotor loose if you heat the rotor disc where the disc surface mates with the hub. You can use a propane torch to heat it up for about 10-20 minutes and then you should be able to bang it off with a dead blow hammer (rubber faced) or a rubber mallet so you do not shatter the disc.

 

Changing front pads and rotors is easy.

First thing you need is a #T-45 Torx drive tool. This is for the caliper bolts. DO NOT USE AN ALLEN WRENCH! You'll also need a tool to press the caliper piston back into it's bore.
Second, generously spray the areas around each wheel stud and center hub with WD-40 or equivalent. Allow to soak for while.

Now, remove the caliper bolts, remove the caliper.
Look at each wheel stud for a locking washer. Sometimes there is a brass lock washer holding the rotor onto the hub. This is used during vehicle assembly and is not needed. If you find one, remove it and discard.
Try pulling the rotor off. If stuck, get a large hammer and a long screw driver or a pry bar. Repeatedly hit the rotor between each stud being careful not to hit the threads. While doing this try prying the rotor from behind. Pull the bar towards you. Don't worry, the rotor will not shatter in your face. I have pryed off many rotors and drums in 30 years and have never seen one break. If it does break, there was something wrong in the first place.

Once it pops off your all set to install the new componnents.

 

Be very careful with the "heating with a torch" thing. Although it may help you loosen a rotor, it's also a great way to kiss seals, lubrication, bearings and flat surfaces goodbye. Use heat carefully and only when and where absolutely needed. Same goes for a hammer by the way.

 

2stroked is correct. Heat will damage a bunch of stuff.
He's right too about the hammer. I used a brass hammer to loosen a rear rotor. I hit it between the studs while I pryed it. Popped loose after about 4 hits.

 

The job differs completely between 2WD and 4WD. 2WD vehicles have rotor-hub assemblies which have integral wheel studs and install over the steering spindle. 4WD vehicles just have a rotor which bolts over the hub flange. Also, the parts for 2WD are more expensive.

Here's my procedure for for my 2000 2WD XLT (see signature):

Things you'll need or want: two new rotors, new set of brake pads, set of sockets and ratchet (handtools), 4" C-clamp, zip ties, needle-nose pliers, hammer, long screwdriver, two new inner wheel bearing assemblies (I got these for $8.99 each at Pep Boys, you can return if you don't need them), two new dust caps ($2.99 each at Pep Boys), 1.5" cotter pins, high-temp all-purpose grease, brake parts cleaner, brake fluid, Disc Quiet (or similar product)

1. Jack up front of vehicle and support with jackstands.
2. Remove the caliper slide-bolts (13mm*) from the caliper mounting bracket.
3. Pull the caliper away from the rotor (pull from bottom first) and hang it out of the way with one of the zip ties.
4. Remove the old pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
5. Remove bolts (18mm*) from caliper mounting bracket, and remove bracket.
6. Remove old dust caps using either the hammer and screwdriver (as a chisel), or try using a pair of channel locks.
7. Straighten old cotter pin and remove pin and lock washer.
8. Loosen outter wheel bearing retainer nut (should be finger-tight, but you may need channel locks) and remove nut, along with outter wheel bearing washer and outter wheel bearing.
9. Remove old brake rotor/hub assembly and lay on towels with wheel studs up.
10. Using hammer and long screwdriver, pound against the inner wheel bearing until the inner wheel bearing seal comes loose enough to remove (you can do this delicately to try to preserve old inner wheel bearing assembly, but I ended up destroying one).
11. Turn rotor over and pull off inner wheel bearing seal and remove old inner wheel bearing assembly.
12. Clean all parts you plan to reuse, especially the outter wheel bearings, with brake cleaner. Wipe the old grease off the spindle.
13. Apply small amount of grease to the new spindle.
14. Apply generous amount of grease to the inside of your palm and slap bearing assemblies against your palm to pack the grease into the bearings.
15. Set some extra grease to the inside of the new rotor (where the inner wheel bearing will go) and install inner wheel bearing.
16. Spread thin layer of grease to the inside of the inner wheel bearing seal and lightly tap it into place using hammer.
17. Set new rotor (with inner wheel bearing and seal pre-installed) onto the spindle.
18. Push the outter wheel bearing onto the spindle and wedge it into the rotor, then install (greased) washer and spindle nut (finger tight).
19. Spin the rotor on the spindle to make sure it slides easily and straight.
20. Install lock washer over the nut with new cotter pin.
21. Install new dust cover.
22. Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket.
23. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and remove some of the fluid (if full) using a baster, syringe or paper towel soaking.
24. Using the C-clamp, push the caliper pistons back into the caliper. Make sure to frequently check the brake fluid reservoir to prevent overflow.
25. Apply Disc Quiet to the back of the new brake pads (not the braking material side) and let sit for a few minutes, then install into caliper mounting bracket.
26. Slide caliper over new pads and reinstall caliper slide-bolts.
27. Repeat steps 2-26 for other side of the vehicle.
28. Refill brake fluid reservoir.
29. You may want to bleed the brakes, but it should not be necessary as long as you didn't drain the reservoir dry during the process.
30. Reinstall your wheels and jack the vehicle down.
31. Remember to tighten your lugs before driving.
32. Follow new rotor and pad break-in procedures. This is very important for the life of your new, expensive components. (For more on this, do a search of this forum.)

* These numbers are from the best of my recollection and may be different for different trucks.


Remember, this is the procedure for the front axle of the 2WD trucks. Procedure for 4WD or for rear discs is different.

Good luck.

 

I attempted to pull some very rusty front rotors from a 2001 F-150 4WD and was unsuccessful and frustrated. How do the mechanics remove these things?!

I soaked around the studs and the center of the brake disc with WD-40.

I used a sledge hammer with a large chisel to pound between the wheel studs and tried using a crowbar to pry the disc from behind. It would not budge. I even turned the rotor and tried prying from many different points in the rotor.

I tried using a three-jaw puller (attaching the puller legs behind the front disc layer. I used a sledge hammer and pounded a piece of wood near the edge of the disc. I heated the disc surface surrounding the studs with a blow torch for about 20 minutes until it was a little hot to the touch (I could not manage to get it much warmer with a single propane torch). I tried pounding the disc from behind and from the front surface and it did not budge.

Are you guys able to just pound and pry them off because they are not so rusted down south or am I doing something wrong?

Is there a secret trick to getting these things unstuck?

 

Actually, it's common knowledge that rust is more prevalent in Florida due to the constant humid weather. When I removed the rear rotors on my truck (similiar procedure as with 4WD rotors), I just used lots of PB Blaster (rust remover), a hammer to hit the exterior face between the lug studs and a prybar between the interior face and the caliper bracket. It took a long time. Let the rust penetrator sit for a little while, then smack the rotor and bit, then let it sit, then repeat until it pries off. It took a while for me. Just give it heck and be patient.

Jeff

 

Actually, its common knowledge that rust is more prevalent in the snowbelt due the salt they spread on the roads.

Just yanking yer chain, Jeff.

Heat sometimes helps on the stuck rotors, but the real medicine is holding a block of wood against the inside of the rotor and smacking it as hard as you can towards the outside with a 2 lb hammer.

 

Do a search; this topic has been done several times as far as the difficulty of removing the rusted rotors from 4WD trucks. If they are rusted, you will find it's a giant PITA to get them off, but it can be done.

 

I know I'm bringing back an old post but should be stickied! I had a difficult time finding online instructions on how to replace the front rotors on the RWD trucks. Of course if I had a service manual it'd be easier...

Thank you Jeff.

 

Awesome post.. years later this helped me complete a brake job today!

 

ditto

 

way to go guy. you got the procedure right, but thats for a 4wd truck. not 2wd like you claim. a 2wd trucks front rotors slide on and off without touching the spindle nuts or dust covers. any 4wd vehicle the rotor is the complete rotor/hub assembly attaching directly to the spindle, where as the 2wd rotor settles onto the Lug bolts of the Hub assembly.

 

YES lol the 4wd Rotorsare complete Rotor and Hub assemblies. try unbolting that center bolt with the pin in it. if ur scratching ur head to findit, its the Center of the rotor, there may or may not be a cover on it to protect it from dust. once u remove that nut, remove the washer, then the bearing. then slide the rotor off ( granted you have ur whole caliper off) when u slide the rotor off, because when u remove the seals in the back, if u bend them, you'll have to buy new ones. take all those "guts" and put it into the new rotor, unless u bought new bearings and seals, then do the same thing just with the new stuff. DONT FORGET to repack your bearings. and then just put ur rotor and hub assembly right back on, washer, nut, pin and dust cover. the Nut, you should tighten up all the way u can, and then release it one half turn back and the rotor should spin freely with the spindle. once that is done the, bolt up ur calipers and put ur new pads on, and away you go. dont forget to open ur brake fluid cap when depressing ur caliper piston and when u get in, pump ur brakes a few times to adjust that piston u just decompressed back into its bore. done