Stuck rotor removal. Here is how I removed my front stuck rotors on my 2003 Expedition. I used a 7 1/4 in circular saw with metal cutting blade. Cut a slot at the outer rotor area first close up to the inner hub area. Move saw up hub and stud area but use shallow cutting to keep from cutting into hub. Use crow/wrecker bar to split rotor. This method didn’t require any hammering. The blades wear out fast so buy a box. Go to my photo gallery here (Orlandoguy) and look at the cut and split rotor pic. For larger rotors than mine you may need to use a combination saws-all and/or larger circular saw to make the cuts.

 

20 lb. sledge or a saws all works very well. maybe heat but i would not count on it.

 

When I read here a lot of people were hammering the hell out of the rotors to break them, I felt that the bearings might get damaged. Hence the crowbar split method. After cleaning I used hi temp engine paint on the hub and rotor mating surfaces before installing the new rotors. I hope this will help for the next time.

 

I have to agree, the weight of the truck puts lots of stress on the bearings. No need to further abuse them by pounding on them with a hammer ......... good move orlandoguy.

 

I found lightly tapping the rotor, with a small hammer, worked great on my heavily rusted roters. Just got to keep at it and they will break loose... just becareful not to ding the studs..

my 2/100ths

 

Got mine off yesterday. 70,000 miles - took a little penatrating oil, soaked them good, tapped them and drank a beer. Came back, soaked again and hit them pretty firm towards the engine with a 5lb hammer between the wheel mounting studs and they came right off!!!

 

Orlandoguy is dead on. I removed my OEM rotors today on my '97 F150 4X4. These rotors have been on the truck for 197,000 miles - and have never been removed. Rather than fight them (I didn't even try beating them off), I took the advice here and used a circle saw with metal cutting blade. I had both rotors off in 20 minutes. I made two cuts 180° apart on the first rotor and it split in 10 hits with a 3/4" cold chisel and 3lb hammer. That went so well that just for a fun, I decide to make only one cut on the second rotor, which split in 20 hits. No 20lb maul beating the front end, no cursing, and whats more, my beer didn't even get warm.

A 7" metal blade will cut all the way down the face and into the hub of the rotor just far enough without going completely through the rotor hub, continue the cut into the rotor hub face between the studs a little ways without cutting through. One cut like this should weaken the rotor enough to split easily. Orlandguy has pics that show all. Guys - if your rotors are stuck, this is the way to go. Save your front end and hammers.
Chris

 

Here are couple of photos for those that would like to see just how easy this was -

 

Awesome idea... Worked as slick as ... well you know...

Tried the weasel juice and hammer to no avail. Used the Grinder with cutting disk and off in 5 minutes...

Thanks

 

What amazes me is that the dealer doesnt do this too. They rather take the hub off and press the rotor off the hub.

 

I did mine today... Recipricating saw, one decent blade, and a die grinder. Cut to the center with the saw, then as close to the middle with the die cutter. A firm wack with a 3lb from the back next to the crack broke it off

 

Replaced the fronts today. Glad I did the research here before I went at it.

Jacked, pulled wheels, Un-bolted and hung calipers from the well. With the calipers out of the way, I was able to run a sawzall at the rear of rotor avoiding the "dust shield" and maximizing the depth of cut. Turned the rotor 180 and repeated. 3 taps and the rotor was off.

I thought I was in for a nightmare some time ago when I replaced the ball joints, I thought it may be easier to remove the rotor until I realised how frozen it was.

If it weren't for the threads about this issue and the "cut-off" technique, I would have been pounding until my front hub bearings fell out.

Excellent tip/trick guys

 

Um, one crack with a 5 lbs. hand sledge to the braking surface cracks the entire outer ring off. . . . done plenty of times. . .dont forget to wire brush then anti-seize the hub before you put new rotor on. . .

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs
Follow this link to you tube video. It works on most vehicles and worked in two minutes on my 98 f150 after days of spraying and beating. Since I have employed it with other types.

 

I have found a method far less destructive and intensive than the traditional heat, pound, and grind techniques for removing a stuck rotor. Simply insert 2 1/2" x 3-4" threaded bolts into the caliper mounting bracket holes, and thread a nut on each between the bracket and the rotor. Hold the nut with a wrench, and turn the bolt head in with a ratchet or wrench(really hard, use a cheater). The end of the bolt will apply pressure on the rotor. Alternate tightening each until you hear the rotor break free. If necessary, loosen the bolts and turn the rotor 180 degrees and repeat. The thread length on most bolts is 1 1/4", and I found I needed about 1 1/2". By placing a 1/4" small iron plate between the end of the bolt and the rotor surface, you get the extra length as well as protecting the rotor surface and distributing the pressure. My rotors were stuck enough that the ends of the bolts left a significant depression in the steel plate surfaces, and it broke free with a bang.

I wish I found this years ago!