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  #1  
Old 06-25-2001, 04:12 PM
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Unhappy 5.4L Clatters Since Filter Change - Why?

My 2000 F-150 5.4l auto has 24,000 miles on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Pennzoil 5w-30 and a Motorcraft FL-820s filter. The last three mornings, since changing the oil and filter, when it starts up it clatters for 3 or 4 seconds, then quiets down. Seems like I've read a post here that some filters don't have a check valve and that causes this problem by letting the oil all run down to the pan (is that what happens?). The FL-820s (s = silicone check valve) has one.

Could this be a bad filter? Can I change filters without losing a lot of oil and making a big mess? This is a 4x4 and the filter always drains a little down on to the front diff. anyway, and IT'S a mess... I don't need a bigger mess.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Dave

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  #2  
Old 06-25-2001, 04:13 PM
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Unhappy

Of all the oils to use.. your using penzoil?
For the love of god.. shoot your truck and put it out of its misery... sigh.. Click the image to open in full size.

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  #3  
Old 06-25-2001, 08:55 PM
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I'm not sure of what your problem is but a doubt the oil caused the problem. Pennzoil has been faithful to me in my 25 yrs of driving with no engine problems ever. Plus I have alot of extra bucks in my pockets. I would try changing the filter out to see if that helps. You will probably only lose a quart of oil when you change it.
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2001, 09:00 PM
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There's absolutely nothing wrong with Pennzoil.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2001, 12:03 AM
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As to Penzoil, this is my first Ford ever, but I've put 240,000 mi. on one Dodge 318ci Van and 185,000 on my second Dodge 318ci van without any problems in the oiled systems of the engines (don't ask me how many water pumps and steering gear boxes!) I've always used Penzoil 10w30 and have changed oil every 3,000 mi. I think Penzoil works.

I guess my real question is: Do you think it is the oil filter? Is there some filter that's better than the Ford factory one?

Since my only Penzoil experience is with the Dodge 318, Do I need to consider a different 5w-30 oil since this is a Ford engine?

By the way... I LOVE my Head-turnin', beach burnin' F-150!

Dave
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  #6  
Old 06-26-2001, 01:56 AM
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stephen muscio pepper32
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What's so bad about Pennzoil? If it worked well in your Dodge you should have no problems in your Ford. Like Dixietruck said try a new filter, you might have got a bad one.

[This message has been edited by stephen muscio (edited 06-26-2001).]
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  #7  
Old 06-26-2001, 03:50 AM
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MonsterFisherman:
We basically have the same truck. I have a black plastic tray underneath the filter that works very well. It guides the oil into a drain pan, so you shouldn't make that much mess.

Personally I'd change the filter. You'll only lose 1/2 a quart and it's the easiest thing to do first. You could have a bad filter. Obviously the oil has nothing to do with the noise or you'd have heard it a while ago. I think the Ford filter is a good one. I was using Amsoil filters but changed to the Ford one at my last oil change.

Of course, the other possibility is that a foreign object found its way into the engine during your last oil change ... but I doubt that's the cause. It would make a noise all the time. It's got to be the filter.

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  #8  
Old 06-26-2001, 03:25 PM
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znstr:
Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I think that filter may have a quality/reliability problem. I am now going to Mobil1 oil and filter. Does anyone know that this switch will not effect the warranty on my 16+ k miles SC ?</font>
I think that Mobil 1 oil filters have the same or similar silicon anti-drainback valve. I've had a really hard time finding anyone in Hawaii that stocks Mobil 1 filters. I'm trying Mobil 1 10W-30 in my Wrangler and F-150 and so far I'm happy with the performance. Engine seems very smooth, and my idle at lights seems to be considerably smoother compared to the Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 I was using before. Of course, this is not scientific but merely my perception. I'll probably be staying with Mobil 1 from now on.

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  #9  
Old 06-27-2001, 12:07 AM
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My 2001 5.4 L had occasionally the same symptoms on first startup of the day. I used motorcraft FL 820-S and 5w-20 oil and changed every 3k or less. I think that filter may have a quality/reliability problem. I am now going to Mobil1 oil and filter. Does anyone know that this switch will not effect the warranty on my 16+ k miles SC ?
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  #10  
Old 06-27-2001, 12:13 AM
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PS: The main thing about the filter I question is the reliability/effectiveness of its drainback valve.................
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  #11  
Old 06-27-2001, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MonsterFisherman:
My 2000 F-150 5.4l auto has 24,000 miles on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Pennzoil 5w-30 and a Motorcraft FL-820s filter. The last three mornings, since changing the oil and filter, when it starts up it clatters for 3 or 4 seconds, then quiets down. Seems like I've read a post here that some filters don't have a check valve and that causes this problem by letting the oil all run down to the pan (is that what happens?). The FL-820s (s = silicone check valve) has one.

Could this be a bad filter? Can I change filters without losing a lot of oil and making a big mess? This is a 4x4 and the filter always drains a little down on to the front diff. anyway, and IT'S a mess... I don't need a bigger mess.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Dave

</font>
Dude, try installing a cut-out switch into the idle air control (IAC) circuitry. I did it in my 92 F-150 and my 98 F-150. It is a simple push button (normally closed) switch that when depressed cuts out the high (fast) idle during cold start-ups. It is located under the dash out of sight (nice mounting hole already there) and within arms reach. My 89 crown vic and 92 F-150 did the same thing. They reved high when I started it in the morning causing alot of engine wear (pistin slap) due to lack of oil circulation. Ford is notorious with this issue. If you want more info let me know.

98 F150, 5.4, 3.55LS, 9.75, Off-Road (yeah!), Tow package, B&M shift kit, 2001 rear slider (no more leaks!), Cracked doors, Disfunctional Door Ajar light, Defective Horn, etc...

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  #12  
Old 06-27-2001, 12:50 AM
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I'd like more info on disabling the cold start high idle. It races way to fast on a dead motor. I cringe when I start it. In Florida I should not have a problem getting it going with out that. Does it have to be on a switch or can it just be bypassed?

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Old 06-27-2001, 12:50 AM


 
 
 
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