Sorry, I've been getting the Sprint car ready for the racing season. Your TPS readings indicate a bad TPS. Make sure you measured it across the green and black wires.

Take care,
-Chris

 

measured it on both . 5.08 volts to it and 4.16 out of it .

 

Yup, that's bad. The voltage going to it is correct, but the voltage coming out is wrong. Very wrong. Replace the TPS, and try to adjust it as close to .95vdc (at idle) as possible. Lower than that is okay, but don't go higher.

Take care,
-Chris

 

well that didnt fix the pos . i am broke now . so i guess i keep driving it til it craps out the burn the dam thing to the ground . i am tired of it , if and when i do get it fixed i can tell ya this i am getting rid of it and getting me an old chev !

 

What are the TPS readings now?

 

ya know i didnt check them . i just put it on since it is non adjustable . started it and it ran the same . (or should i say didnt run).

 

Check it. Are you sure you put it on correctly? Check the readings, and post them.

Take care,
-Chris

BTW- it doesn't seem like it's adjustable, but there will be some play. You'll see.

 

ok here's the total history . 1990 f150 5.0 multiport efi.
a month or so ago i started having trans problems . then a few weeks ago i started to get a slight shudder on the freeway (figured it was the trans).inbetween that time the air bypass hose to the throttle body rotted off ( dunno why it is called that for since it is a water cooler for the throttle body). repaired that with a piece of 3/8" aluminum pipe and jb weld .seemed to be ok after that . but was before the shudder started. then a week ago last saturday it started running rough but idled . by monday it wouldnt idle at all, since then i have purchased a code reader and checked codes . replaced egr valve , replaced iac valve, replaced tps, replaced cap,rotor,plugs and wires , did an oil change , replaced air filter . checked and cleaned pcv, old plugs looked good . last tune up was in august 2001 , 137000 miles on it now .now it not only won't run and dies when it is started . the rpm's go down when it is cold and i put my foot on the gas and up when i take it off, backfires throught the intake and surges at a stop in gear. i bought it two years ago with 106000 miles on it .
checked timing , it is dead on , one note tho . timing light would flash twice and then not flash and then flash again . i am going to check it on another vehicle tomorrow to make sure it is ok. if it is possibly a coil /pickup coil /tfi problem?. i am a good shadetree mechanic and have done some work on computerized systems . heck i build computers and do pc support at work . i have an above average i.q. and i am a service manager of a large r.v. dealership in east texas . but this seems to escape me . i am at the point of frusteration, this pos truck has put a serious effect on my financial situation, I'M BROKE !!!! ....lol
guyess i am going to have to break down and borrow the money to take it to a shop if not only to fix it but maybe just to tell me what is wrong with it ?? then seriously when it is back to running good i am going to look at trading it in on a new chevy ......lol

 

i will check it on my lunch tomorrow . all my tools are at work .

 

Man, it could be several things. It's really hard to tell without being there. I'll list all the basic tests you can do that will help isolate the problem(s). If you can, write down the values or the reactions to each of these, and then tell me when you can. You still need to verify the TPS setting, just to rule it out. Check it at idle, and at WOT. You should also test the IAC by unpluging it while the truck is idling. If it stalls, it's working. If it doesn't change the idle, it's not working. Another thing I'd like you to do while it's idling is to remove a vacuum hose, creating a vacuum leak. This will be easiest to do with a plugged vacuum port, if you have one, on the vacuum tree on the intake. Remove a plug, and if the engine stalls, or the idle quality gets worse, then it's not a fuel problem. If the idle rises, then you are running rich, or an air passage is blocked. Verify that the firing order is correct. It should be: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Also make sure that the spark plug wires are separated from each other, all the way from the cap to the plugs. Buy seperators if necessary. This is very important!!! You said the timing was right on. It should be 10 BTDC (with the SPOUT connector removed). If you have time, you might want to check the timing chain for slop. This is easily done by placing a breaker bar, with the correct socket, on the crank center bolt, and rocking the engine back and forth while watching the rotor (with the distributor cap removed). If there is any delay in the rotor turning while you are rocking the crank a few degrees each way, then the timing chain has too much slop in it. If there is excessive play, the chain may have jumped a tooth. A compression test would help to confirm or deny this as well, and should be done if you can. last but not least, reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery, and, while it's disconnected, turn on the headlight switch for 10 minutes. This will make sure that any capacitors are completely drained. Turn the switch off, and reconnect the battery. Test for codes. BTW, the ECM must be reset this way after replacing the TPS in order for the ECM to relearn the new settings. If you did not do this after installing the new one, that may be part of the problem as well.

That's all I can think of right now, and should be plenty for you to do. Let me explain some things, though. Your TPS setting was bad. It should never read higher than 1vdc at idle, and a little less is preferable. Your reading was 4.xx vdc, so we know the TPS was bad. The EGR and EVP were bad, the codes verified this. The low codes you got (12 & 13, or 13 & 14) are 99% of the time, due to the IAC. That is what the ECM uses to control the idle speed. You have replaced this, yet still get the codes. This troubles me. You must be certain that the openings beneath the IAC valve are clear, and that they are also sealed. Do as much of what I've suggested as you can, and either post the results, or email me directly at:

pkrwuds@pacbell.net

Take care,
-Chris

 

well here is what I found out today , check tps at idle position =0.92 volts and at wot = 4.50 volts .
remove vacuum line while idling . rpm's pick up but starts surging
checked firing order again . it is right
checked for slop in timing chain . none .
recheck my timing light . it is ok . (didn't have it all the way over the plug wire )
checked timing , 10 degrees btdc with spout connector removed
unplug iac engine dies
removed and inspected iac passages . no blockages . (then I broke the bolt ear on it reinstalling it :-( , tried to use the housing from the old one and broke it to . in order to get home I took the whole throttle body assy. off our shop truck and put on mine . 5.8 L same year as mine )
removed egr and checked for blockages in the intake passage for it . none .
didn't have time to check compression
disconnect battery for 10 minutes with the headlights turned on .
ran truck 5 miles then checked codes . now the kam is saying the new egr is sticking open ,code 33
I also called the local ford dealer and talked to the service manager . of course he couldn't offer and insight . (like I didn't expect that .lol ) he said they would charge $45 to find out what is wrong with it . (I don't see it but that's what he said ,
I didn't separate the plug wires . right now I have used most my last weeks pay to do what I have done with this thing , I have bills due also I don't know where I am going to get the money to pay them . hope my income tax return hits my bank soon ...lol let me know what you think. and I just want to say thank you for all the help and insight you have taken your time to give me on this .

^^Macgyver / Ray

 

ok here is the scoop as of today .


separated plugs wires
did a compression test
#1=155
#2=150
#3=160
#4=165
#5=155
#6=160
#7=150
#8=165
vacuum on supply line to evr was 9" steady
9.5" at tree on intake
none to egr
going to replace the egr line with a new one sometime this weekend and then check it
ok next I switched the map sensor from our shop truck :-) it is fixed now other then the leaking or plugged line to the egr :-)
new map sensor is $65 and another $65 to replace the iac I broke and I think it is good to go .
reset ecm after that codes cleared then drove home
koeo test still shows code 33 .
koer test shows code 32..77..52
I know 77 is operator error didn't sense wot .
33 egr valve not opening .
and 52 is cause I didn't turn the steering wheel during the test .
so all in all I get the vacuum to the egr working and I am in biz :-)

again thank you for you help Chris. I wouldn't of gotten it fixed if you hadn't been there to help . I owe ya man big time

^^Macgyver / Ray