We just received our new 4.6 2000 F-150 today. This engine has "coil on plug" ignition where the spark plugs are physically attached to the ignition coils.

Can anyone suggest how one is supposed to change the spark plugs, or is this no longer serviceable by the average guy - it looks to me as if the job consists of removing the fuel injectors and fuel injection rails, removing a lot of other wiring and other crap, somehow pull those ignition coils out (and hope they do not stick to the spark plugs) and then pull the spark plugs - and hope nothing breaks (like an injector) when it is all reassembled. This seems ridulously complicated!

How long is this supposed to take? Whose bright idea was all this?

 

Welcome Steven. I don't think they are covered up by the fuel rails, etc., but you are right that they are much more difficult to get to than in the past.

 

Steven,

You don't have to remove the injectors or rails. I put in Champion Truck Plugs last weekend. The truck has 19000 miles and first time it was done. What a PAIN in the A$$!! Especially the rear ones. It took alittle over 2 hours. Make sure you have a 5/8 spark plug socket, a couple extensions (different lengths), 7mm socket for coil hold down screw, and lots of patience!!
You may have to disconnect some injector plug connections. I did have a difficult time getting some spark plugs out due to some slight rust on the threads. I used alittle dielectric grease and a small amount of antisieze for the threads. Like I said, "lots of patience."

1999 F250 L.D. S/C XLT
5.4L, 4R100 trans., 3.73
Flowmaster, K&N, Poweraid, Superchip

 

I can attest to the "patience" advice. I have a '97 F150, and frankly, these plugs are the absolute WORST I have ever seen (well, maybe the '69-'71 Mustang 428 Cobra Jet was worse). It is possible to change them without too much agravation, however.

Although my F150 doesn't have the coil-on-plug configuration, it's still bad enough. Ultimately, I changed mine two at a time over the course of about 1000 miles.

The plugs on the driver's side of the engine are somewhat easier to change as they tilt forward, to the front of the engine, but on that bank, you will have to unbolt the power steering reservoir to make access easier. The fuel inj. rails can be left in place.

Avoid using a universal joint, if possible, as these have a way of slipping and shearing off the plug. Your knuckles will take a beating and I recommend lots of band-aids on hand.

On my truck, the plug boots proved stubborn to get out. They are l-o-n-g, and extend at least three inches down inside the manifold. You will need plenty of ratchet extensions of various lenghts. Have cold beer handy.

Blow out the hole in which the plug resides before removing them as chunks of dirt in the cylinder won't do the engine much good.

The worst ones to change proved to be the two rear ones, tucked under the firewall. I was forced to use a universal joint on the passenger-rear plug, but it wasn't torqued too tight and it came out easily once I had about 8 extensions stacked together so it extended high enough to get some leverage and "swing" area for the ratchet handle. Use anti-sieze before reinstalling. I installed Bosch Plus-4s and they seem to run very smoothly.

Good luck.

------------------

'97 F150 Supercab XLT; Pacific Green; 4.6l; B & M ShiftPlus; Bosch Plus4s; 3.55; ABS; 17" whls; Towing Package; Gibson dual exhaust; Waldoch Conversion (Custom Paint/graphics, powerslider rear window; walnut dash trim; overhead console; F'glass 'boards); ARE fiberglass bed cap; JVC Head unit & 12 disk changer; Prince compass/temp RV mirror; Anti-theft.



[This message has been edited by jaymz (edited 06-17-2000).]

 

Just curious. I was at the local AutoZone and noticed a sparkplug remover that had a flexible, steel shaft. It was about 12 inches long and had the socket on one end, and a T-handle on the other. Has anyone else ever tried one of these or even seen one. I could bend that in any direction I wanted to and would seem to help in changing the plugs on these new trucks. I think they were around $10-15. Maybe a little pricy, but if it would save a person 1 hour and 8 bloody knuckles, it might be worth it.

 

Just curious as to why your thinking about changing your spark plugs? You got a LONGGGGGGGGGGG way to go before changing them!

I wouldn't give it any thought till 50K...

 

I can't imagine the plugs any harder to get to than my 97 4.6. I have 48K miles and it is time to change. I managed to get one plug out and the gap was .005 over maximum.

The new Chevy trucks are a piece of cake to change out. I drove a new Chevy truck with the new 4.8 LS1 engine and it must have 50 hp more than my 4.6. I see why Chevy trucks are outselling Ford.

------------------
97 4.6 F150, 1/8 = 10.885 @ 64.10 mph, 88 5.0 Mustang 1/8 = 7.191 @ 94.76 mph

 

Since when are Chevys out selling Fords?
http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/otf0999.html

 

Rand,

The only reason I changed plugs because of the current mods I'm doing to the truck. I'm just trying to achieve the best bang for the buck after installing the Superchip and exhaust.
I'm very skeptical about trying to remove plugs with over 50K+ miles on them. Mine only had 19K and a couple were a pain to remove due to the rust on the threads.

Know I know these plugs are made to go 100K miles. Imagine trying to remove plugs with rust & corrosion and NOT stripping the threads on the heads. It happened to me on my girlfriends 95' Blazer and it had only 61K miles. It took me half the day to Helicoil a plug hole with NO room in the compartment!!

1999 F250 L.D. S/C XLT
5.4L, 4R100 trans., 3.73
Flowmaster 40series, K&N, Poweraid, Superchip

[This message has been edited by Jupiterak (edited 06-18-2000).]

 

My preference would be the autolite's over bosch. I also would go to a copper core plug over any platinum plugs as the copper core plugs conduct much better as well as provide for much lower cylinder temps. They run much smoother, get better fuel economy, and usually provide a little more power. Only drawback is they don't last quite as long as the platinum plugs so you have to change them more often. However, I still don't buy 100k intervals with platinum plugs either. A platinum plug may still fire after 100k of use, but their efficiency and performance are gone long before then, like around 50-60k miles.

 

I am also seriously considering a plug/wire replacement on my '97 4.6 Lariat. It has 72,000 miles on it. I just recently installed a Powerdyne SC (fuel regulator in transit to CA for repair, essentially no boost right now and very easy on the go-pedal) and a local friend/mechanic advised changing both, to which I said "why, it doesn't have 100,000 miles yet?". He chuckled and said if I had gone 72K without them I was doing better than the majority of F150 drivers. Ford Motorsport 9mm wires are only $80, which is not bad. Haven't decided what plugs to go with, but have been advised that Ford vehicles seem to only like Ford parts (converted from Fram oil filters to Motorcraft) so will probably go with Autolites (please advise!). I KNEW that a plug change was going to be a nightmare 4 years ago when I bought the truck, and it sounds like I was right. And guess what I just did; I put the SC on, which quadrupled the difficulty on the driver's side. Note: change plugs before you install a SC!!!

Jaymz, guess what my other toy is? It's a '69 Mach 1 with, you guessed it, a 428CJ. In the last year I've changed the plugs twice (kept fouling them out). Lost a lot of knuckle matter and temper. As tight as the F150 looks, it can't be as bad as that 428CJ. I'll soon be finding out.

Somebody put in your .02. Bosch or Autolite? Thanks.

[This message has been edited by fordman3 (edited 06-19-2000).]