Please Help, cam phaser pin broken & hole in end of cam wallowed out. I don't know if it jumped timing but when I rolled Mark down on crank it appeared to be within one tooth of being correct. When I opened valve cover the copper wire from cam phaser position sensor was wrapped on camshaft behind phaser on drivers side when I removed phaser it fell apart in my hand, end of cam also scored up. Ford dealership said motor shot & 7000.00 for replacement. I'll include a couple pics, can someone please steer me in the right direction, PLEASE HELP STILL MAKING PAYMENTS!!! The f-150 is a 2005 5.4L 3 valve.

 

Was engine lockup the reason you tore it down? I find it hard to see how the cam could get as far out as the 'scoring' appears it did without valves coming into contact with pistons. Is this possibly the reason Ford said "new engine"?


If so, I think some shopping around can beat the $7,000.00 quote - especially if you can do some of the work and peripheral parts on your engine that don't come with a long block are still good enough to reuse.

 

Mechanic with computer said it showed compression on all cylinders and the engine wasn't locked up, the scoring was the pin between phaser & cam, the phaser knocked position sensor in front cover

 

Why can't you just replace the cam and associated components?

 

I second @GLC's question then.


I know exactly where the pin and scoring is. It appears (in your photo) that the cam is scored more than 90 degrees from where the pin should hold the phaser sprocket. I would 'assume' the phaser was not functioning, but no one knows where the phaser had the cam positioned when went **** up. By design, Phasers can retard cams a max of about 30 camshaft degrees - . So, I still think its a miracle you didn't have valve damage. That cam could have gotten nearly 120 degrees out of time at the worst part of the scoring!!!!!


But it didn't if you still had compression. So, I agree with GLC. You should be able to replace cam and phaser.

 

A whole head assembly can be had at O'reilley for $ 528.00 also...if you really wanted to tear into it... but that can add up real quick when you add gaskets, and bolts...

Hope it works out for you!

 

Yeah - it wouldn't hurt to borescope the cylinders on that side before you do anything.

 

Thanks f-150 torque, couple ? If u don't mind , can I read a code if I put the battery back in it? Would the test the other mechanic did be accurate without actually pulling a plug and doing a manual compression test? If it did have interference with pistons would theyre be a rod damaged ?

 

Removing the battery cleared the codes.

You can't do a compression test if the cam and phaser isn't connected and in time.

 

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PLUS: 1) My personal opinion is that what ever sort of test the mechanic did was not very accurate without pulling plugs and doing a manual compression test. and 2) My personal opinion is that the pistons would give up long before the rods would be damaged if valves came into contact with the pistons.
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