P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit

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  #16  
Old 02-04-2016, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by machsp33d
I got home tonight and swapped out the #3 coil with a other and still have the code. Also pulled the battery and unhooked pcm and took compressor to blow off anything that I couldn't see and still no change. I did a diy noid test on the #3 plug with a 192 bulb and did not light up so looks like no power to the coil? I once again double checked the harness along the valve cover to down by the accumulator and to where it plugs into the compressor underneath as well as between the firewall and the engine and o2 wires are clear or exhaust and driveshaft. I'm about to let this truck roll down the hill into the concrete wall at the bottom before I pay the stealership! Lucky it's going to be nice enough to ride my harley til I can think this over i guess...thanks and sorry guys getting really frustrated with this truck nickel and dime me!
Why not pull the plug? sounds to me like its not a sure thing your light tester is working. Did you try it on a known good cylinder?
 
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:42 AM
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I would agree whole-heartedly with you @Jayhat. It's my understanding he has a HARD miss - that hasn't moved by swapping things around or isn't intermittent and running ok part time. If this is not the case, I'm operating under some bum misunderstanding.
 
  #18  
Old 02-04-2016, 10:11 AM
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Beating a dead horse - but in my opinion until you pull the plugs and at least LOOK at them you are spinning your wheels.
 
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:15 AM
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Could also be the boot. If you didnt move the complete coil with the boot.
 
  #20  
Old 02-04-2016, 05:19 PM
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I ordered a set of 8 ebay DG -508 coils and 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs for $89.99 shipped! I have had so much bad luck lately I'm really sweating the plugs come out ok...
 
  #21  
Old 02-04-2016, 05:23 PM
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Wow - do we have to say this again? The plugs will come out just fine - in fact, the 2 valve engines have a tendency to spit them out by themselves if they aren't adequately torqued down.

Good luck with the Ebay coils - the only cheap coils I trust are Araparts.
 
  #22  
Old 02-04-2016, 07:51 PM
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The e-bay Chinese coils have a HIGH failure rate. Save the known good coils for when the do. You can swap them back in. The last set of coils I got were the Denso coils at rock auto. They were about $230 a set but the are made in USA and comparing them to stock motor craft the look identical. Rock auto says Denso is an OEM supplier but here on this board the claim is made that visteon is OEM but it could be the Denso and motor craft and Visteon are all made in the same factory. I dont know. I like the Deso coils no mater. in fact I've bought viteons and was un impressed with the packaging..
 
  #23  
Old 02-08-2016, 06:59 PM
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Ok so new plugs and coils and still has same code...them old plugs looked like a shipwreck at the bottom of the ocean! Lol but didn't fix the problem. So... Trip to the stealership? Or is there anything else I can try? Nothing I can do with the pcm because the dealer needs to program the keys to it from what I understand...???
 
  #24  
Old 02-08-2016, 09:07 PM
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Still #3 coil code? You have a wiring problem between the coil and PCM, or the PCM is bad.
 
  #25  
Old 02-08-2016, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Still #3 coil code? You have a wiring problem between the coil and PCM, or the PCM is bad.


@glc is right.


The 350 series codes say the PCM is sensing too little or too much current in the COP primary circuit. The question is, is the PCM able to pull the switched side of the COP primary to ground? (wiring problem between the coil and PCM, or the PCM is bad.)


But I'm sure the new coils and plugs will help later down the road when that question is resolved.
 
  #26  
Old 02-11-2016, 05:09 PM
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How hard is it to pull that harness? It seems like it runs down the side of the block to a small connection which seems easy. Then seems to run behind the engine and disappear? Also off to the left side into a connector with a 10mm screw...then that connector goes to the pcm?
 
  #27  
Old 02-11-2016, 10:37 PM
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I have never tried to R/R a wiring harness. I would however say that if there is no visible damage (chaffing / rat chewing / smashed places) and the plugs at both ends do not appear damaged --- UNFORTUNATELY, I would be more suspicious of an output circuit of the PCM. Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram for a 2002 and not sure mine would be applicable. But I would certainly first try to obtain an accurate wiring diagram and Ohm out the coil circuits from the trouble COPs to the PCM for continuity. If that checks out affirmative, sounds like the PCM is bad. It's not common, but does happen.
 
  #28  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:26 PM
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So before I go to dealer can I try getting a remanufacutred pcm from say Auto Zone? Or does the dealership have to reprogram to keys and such?
 
  #29  
Old 03-02-2016, 10:28 PM
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The PCM needs to be flashed and programmed for the keys. Autozone can order them pre flashed but then the Keys need to be programmed. Some key places can do that..
 
  #30  
Old 03-03-2016, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jethat
The PCM needs to be flashed and programmed for the keys. Autozone can order them pre flashed but then the Keys need to be programmed. Some key places can do that..
Ok I have a key place right next door to my work. Maybe I can get a autozone pcm and swap it in the key place parking lot and have them flash it?
 


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