Low RPM Rattle
#1
Low RPM Rattle
Ive got this horrible rattle coming out of my 5.4 at low RPMS. It only happens when the motor is warmed up, it sounds fine when cold. Also when I unplug my VCT solenoids, it quits. I've searched and searched but no one seems to actually have an answer to this. Some people say to change out the tensioners and phasers, then some people say that they have everything changed out and they still hear the noise.
Some people say to switch to a thicker oil. What should I do? Anybody out there that has actually had this problem and fixed it? It's driving me insane, because it happens at 750-800 RPMs, also known as parking lot RPMs. I'm tired or riding around sounding like a rock in a tin can, I'd rather turn heads in a different way lol.
Help us much appreciated.
Oh, and if you're wondering what it sounds like, here's a guy that has the EXACT same issue as me. Sounds just like the truck in this video: http://youtu.be/WHYeAo9bZ3k
Some people say to switch to a thicker oil. What should I do? Anybody out there that has actually had this problem and fixed it? It's driving me insane, because it happens at 750-800 RPMs, also known as parking lot RPMs. I'm tired or riding around sounding like a rock in a tin can, I'd rather turn heads in a different way lol.
Help us much appreciated.
Oh, and if you're wondering what it sounds like, here's a guy that has the EXACT same issue as me. Sounds just like the truck in this video: http://youtu.be/WHYeAo9bZ3k
#2
You need a lot of understanding if your going to address any issues on your truck.
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It does sound like the timing chain tensioners are causing the noise.
They are oil pressure operated for tension. At idle the oil pressure is lower than at higher engine RPM speeds so tensioners put less tension on both chains.
If the tensioners guides are worn it allows the chains to slap against the front cover.
Then there are camshaft phasers that could be involved in the noise issue.
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Unplugging any component the system needs then asking why there is a reaction is quite odd.
The normal idle is in the 750 to 800 rpm range.
You have electronic idle control on your engine that is very complex in it's operation. There is no cable operation like the truck 03 and earlier.
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Oil;;;;; you need to know that 5w20 is the spec oil for your engine.
If heavier weight oil is or has been used over a long time period"""" it wears
excessively the timing chain tensioners'''''' from excessive pressure on the guides. Do not run heavier oil as a normal procedure.
If the guides are worn already it may not make much difference either way until repairs are made.
Bottom line is the front of the motor and valve covers has to come open for repairs to the tensioners and /or phasers.
Radiator comes out, fan comes off, crank pulley comes off, valve covers come off.
It's a major repair that requires the chain positions be correct on the gears before it all goes back together.
If your not up to all this you need a good shop that know how along with some green cabbage in your wallet.
Best of luck to you.
*
It does sound like the timing chain tensioners are causing the noise.
They are oil pressure operated for tension. At idle the oil pressure is lower than at higher engine RPM speeds so tensioners put less tension on both chains.
If the tensioners guides are worn it allows the chains to slap against the front cover.
Then there are camshaft phasers that could be involved in the noise issue.
*
Unplugging any component the system needs then asking why there is a reaction is quite odd.
The normal idle is in the 750 to 800 rpm range.
You have electronic idle control on your engine that is very complex in it's operation. There is no cable operation like the truck 03 and earlier.
*
Oil;;;;; you need to know that 5w20 is the spec oil for your engine.
If heavier weight oil is or has been used over a long time period"""" it wears
excessively the timing chain tensioners'''''' from excessive pressure on the guides. Do not run heavier oil as a normal procedure.
If the guides are worn already it may not make much difference either way until repairs are made.
Bottom line is the front of the motor and valve covers has to come open for repairs to the tensioners and /or phasers.
Radiator comes out, fan comes off, crank pulley comes off, valve covers come off.
It's a major repair that requires the chain positions be correct on the gears before it all goes back together.
If your not up to all this you need a good shop that know how along with some green cabbage in your wallet.
Best of luck to you.
#3
I understand that the tensioners are activated by hydraulic pressure, so I was wondering if I was lacking oil pressure or were my tensioners shot. I'd rather not have to tear into the front of the engine and replace my tensioners. And everything else while I'm in there. $$$$$$ I guess my conscience likes to steer towards the cheaper option, but I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. I know im not the only one with the problem!
#4
my 09' 5.4 is doing the same. and i can put my head by my exhaust pipe after its warm and i can actually hear it missing a tiny bit. while driving its making a ticking noise, like a exhaust leak. i have replaced the VCT solenoid on right bank so far and no change to noise. but yes, when i unplug the VCT solenoid, ALL those noises go away! I have true dual exhaust so that tells me the issue is coming from the right bank.
#5
my 09' 5.4 is doing the same. and i can put my head by my exhaust pipe after its warm and i can actually hear it missing a tiny bit. while driving its making a ticking noise, like a exhaust leak. i have replaced the VCT solenoid on right bank so far and no change to noise. but yes, when i unplug the VCT solenoid, ALL those noises go away! I have true dual exhaust so that tells me the issue is coming from the right bank.