oil psi when cold

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Old 02-17-2015, 12:36 PM
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oil psi when cold

I have a 2000 f150, 5.4 V8, got it about 8 months ago, 70,000 miles on it. anyway when some cold weather came into Arkansas a few moths back my oil psi in the morning was not good, it would dive to 0 then back up until the engine warmed up, so I changed the oil and filter (5/30 as specified) it seemed to be better and no issues, have about 1500 miles on this oil, it got cold again this week and it started dropping again (not as bad) the fill level was in the range but I did put in 1/2 quart of some 0/20, seems to have helped. do I need to run 0/30 in the winter or just plan on replacing the pump ?? comments please thanks
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:39 PM
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The current recommendation for oil for your engine is 5W-20, not 5W-30. Ford changed it in the early 2000's for all Tritons. I would change the oil, use Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 and a Motorcraft FL820S filter, both available at Walmart and all auto parts stores. There are other filters that are okay but Fram is specifically a no-go, it has an inadequate anti-drainback valve which leads to dry starts. Unbranded and house branded filters are frequently relabeled Fram. The MC oil and filter is pretty much as cheap as any so you might as well use it, it's what's best for your engine.
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:25 AM
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Most likely you don't have an oil pressure problem, you have an oil pressure indicator problem.

Try a new sending switch first. Otherwise, install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place so you can measure oil pressure since the stock "gauge" is a simple mechanical idiot light.
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:04 AM
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great, thanks, I do have the original book and it does state 5/30 but I was thinking it may need too be a tad thinner, as far as the psi sensor pretty sure its ok the first time it happened before the oil change the rockers and valves just started to make some noise, good thing I just didn't start it and leave. great note on the filter sometimes its just best to spend that buck or two. especially since I normally run full synthetic. I only put 10k maybe a year on a truck that's really only one/two changes a year with top brand oil (synthetic) will the 5/20 be ok in the summer it will peak into the 100F here in Arkansas at times. I guess if the thermostat is doing its job the engine is the same temp year round and its ok.
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:55 AM
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Sounds like to me yer about to lunch an engine. The symptoms are more like the screen for the oil pickup is getting clogged up. If that's the case, you can't wait for this as oil volume has been decreased. You can have enough pressure to activate the oil pressure switch but the engine is running in an oil starvation state. In your case, I'd change the oil this weekend to a 5w-20 and throw in a qt of Marvel Mystery oil. MM is nothing but a solvent and will strip lubrication. That's a severe fix but you're in a severe state now. Run this for 1500 miles and change it again to either Delo 400LE 15w-40 or Rotella 5w-40. Those oils have larger detergent packages and will help clean things up. Run that 3500 miles and then go back to any quality oil in a 5w-30. Pennzoil yellow bottle would be the best bang for the buck in your case. Use ONLY a Motorcraft oil filter.
Your engine is backward compatible to the Xw-20 oils but it came from the factory speced for 5w-30. Since the engine has significant miles on it with a 5w-30, you need to stay with it. The first year that Ford speced the 153-H oils was 2002 in the F150. I had one and finding oil was a major issue as most stores never heard of it.
All things considered, have you changed the PCV out yet? Use ONLY Motorcraft parts when you do. If the PCV system is compromised any at all, it makes for more heat in the engine internals. This causes oxidation of the oil and can sludge an oil screen, hence my concern. Since new oil fixed the issue but it came back tells me that all is not right inside the engine. The PCV system in its entirety should be replaced especially on a 5.4. The rubber hose is a noted problem child on these engines. The parts are a dealer item and cost was under $100.00. Replacement is straight forward and easy.
 



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