5.4l 3v Spark Plug Removal Instructions

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Old 01-31-2015, 05:23 PM
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5.4l 3v Spark Plug Removal Instructions

Well I finally had one come in the shop recently after not seeing them for a long time. So I decided to shoot a video on the current favorite removal method that is working for us shops out there, since there are a few videos out there but they are all of poor quality. This works about 90% of the time. It seems you will usually break one out of 8 though and for that I have a new video coming out showing in detail the extraction process made simple. I hope this helps as this can be very costly. Most shops charge a half and hour more in additional labor each plug that breaks this can really add up!

 
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:27 PM
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Few notes here-
-It is best to do this while the engine is warm, so after soaking the plugs overnight blow out the rest of the solvent and reinstall coils without bolts and run engine till warm.
-Also if your ignition coil boots are brown in color and not black you have the new plug design that does not have this issue.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by makuloco2000
Few notes here-
-It is best to do this while the engine is warm, so after soaking the plugs overnight blow out the rest of the solvent and reinstall coils without bolts and run engine till warm.
-Also if your ignition coil boots are brown in color and not black you have the new plug design that does not have this issue.
Howdy.

Got a question fer yall.

It's been my experience that soaking without actually cracking the gas seal does nothing, as the penetrant/solvent never gets to the area with the carbon buildup. No fluid will wick past a properly torqued spark plug seat.

Hence - I don't understand the above procedure.

Additionally - everyone has a different definition of 'warm'. The current TSB specified 'room temperature' - which they define as 'cold'. An engine @ normal operating temp is considered 'hot'. So - what do you consider to be 'warm'?

Thanks
MGD
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Howdy.

Got a question fer yall.

It's been my experience that soaking without actually cracking the gas seal does nothing, as the penetrant/solvent never gets to the area with the carbon buildup. No fluid will wick past a properly torqued spark plug seat.

Hence - I don't understand the above procedure.

Additionally - everyone has a different definition of 'warm'. The current TSB specified 'room temperature' - which they define as 'cold'. An engine @ normal operating temp is considered 'hot'. So - what do you consider to be 'warm'?

Thanks
MGD
As stated in the video you want to crack the plugs back a half turn about so the penetrant or carb cleaner can wick down. A warm engine is considered and engine that has idled for 5-10 minutes depending on ambient temp. Ford now recommends a warm engine for all plugs on any engine with aluminum heads.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by makuloco2000
As stated in the video you want to crack the plugs back a half turn about so the penetrant or carb cleaner can wick down. A warm engine is considered and engine that has idled for 5-10 minutes depending on ambient temp. Ford now recommends a warm engine for all plugs on any engine with aluminum heads.
I get that, but that's not what yer addenda says.

The way it reads you are suggesting to start the engine with plugs already cracked open. There is no mention of re-seating the plugs before temporarily re installing the COPs to start & warm the engine.

I'm just seeking clarity, is all.

BTW - I use 1/16 turn, no more. 1/2 turn is too much, and not needed, IMHO.

Again - Thanks fer all yer vidyas! The Mods better start gittin' bizzy movin' all o' these to the How-To Vidya section


MGD
 



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