My father bought it new drove it off and on for a few years. The truck now has 14,000 miles on it and has been sitting for about 8 years in the garage. Usually has been started every month until running temp was achieved. I am purchasing the truck from him soon... i was wondering what should all be done other than new oil and filter. I am planning on taking very good care of this truck and want to take every precaution to keep it looking and running like new. thanks,
Jake.

 

All new fluids, more than likely new tires due to dry rot. A very good once over.

 

that is what someone else told me. Im thinking about switching everything other then brake and clutch over to amsoil. i also might just use mobil one synthetic for motor oil...and opinions? only thing is Ive never changed brake or clutch fluid does anyone know of a forum to help me with that?

 

if anyone else has any suggestions that would be great! thanks.

 

Here's a great suggestion for you, skip the synthetic oil. Any of the synthetic group base oils does absolutely nothing for the seals. They use an additive for the seals and it works good enough for average seals. But you don't have average seals as they've been sitting for the last 8 years and are weak at best. You need an oil that's going to give the old seals a boost. I would have suggested G Oil but that's a real hard find these days but if you can find it- that's the one that will work the best for you. Second choice would be Delo 400 in 10w-30 or straight 30. Last choice would be any of the high mileage oils in 5w-30. They carry an extra amount of seal swell agents that your engine is going to need. I'd run this for 3000 miles and if you have no issues with leaks, use whatever brand oil you like. Use a Motorcraft oil filter or a Purolator. The brake fluid may be contaminated. It should have DOT 3 fluid in it. It has alcohol in the formulation and can absorb water from the air. I'd give it a real close look and probably change it out. Check all hoses for rot and belts too. You may need to change them and maybe not. I would get the transmission fluid changed if an automatic. Use Motorcraft fluid only. You'll need to have it power flushed. Check the tag on the rear axle. If it's a T-Lok axle or anti slip, you need to change it before many miles. It also has alcohol in the formulation. It needs to be changed every 30,000 miles if a T-Lok. If it's a standard axle, check the fluid by pulling the plug, sticking your finger in the hole. Your finger should come out with oil only on it. It should have a sulfur smell to it. If not, change it. I'd jack each front wheel up and spin the tires listening to the bearings. The fronts will have grease if a 2wd. That grease sitting that long may have dried out and needs to be changed. You'll hear the bearings roll if it needs to be repacked. A good radiator flush and new anti-freeze will be needed. Check the power steering fluid. It should be alright but look for leaks. Check all tires for cracks. DO NOT drive this truck at speed until you've had the tires inspected. They can literally blowup on you at speed and cause you to lose control. You need to know, if they were new when it was parked, they are already in bad shape as tires degrade over time. More than likely you're having to put a new battery in it. Make sure it's a good one and rated as high as you can buy. The electrical system is going to be weak for a while until things start working again.

 

Alright i got a new battery for it today, checked the tires and went over the brakes. it right up idled smootly, however i noticed a dark spot on the bottom of the rear diff and up the right side of it looking from the back. i think that would just be a bad seal...i was i was goin to change the differential fluid anyway. but then i noticed that there was a leak on the bottom of the transfer case. there were no drips or stains on the floor where it sat but the bottom where the seal is and around a few bolts at the bottom were wet. what do you think i should do about that? i wiped it clean so hopefully i can see exactly where it is leaking from. but otherwise everything looked good. but i will still change all of the fluids. do you recommend siphoning the gas out of it? and a new fuel filter? ill try to upload pictures of the leaks if that will help

 

I would change the fuel filter and add fresh gas. Not sure if you can siphon out the old easily?? How much old gas is in it?

Mitch

 

im not sure how hard it would be either, and its full :/

 

Did it have Sta-Bil or some other fuel stabilizer in it?

 

I'd probably bite the bullet and drain the tank. 8 years is way old for gas. Change the fluids and if you plan on any trip change the tires. Them old tires will blow out on you.

 

I'd figure out someway of using the fuel pump to drain it. I have a fuel pressure gauge that has a bleed down. Maybe one of those.

 

alright sounds good, any ideas about the transfer case leak?

 

If its not serious I would just change out the fluid and see how it goes. Could just be a little seap..

 

Right! - Pre-mix 60/40 Rocket fuel w/a couple pints of 100 proof. That would do something... might help ehh.
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Lots of great info here!

jakoby, they all leak from sitting over time. I have my 98 on stands and have to run it thru the gears, then put about 20 miles on it in the air @ 60mph every 2.5 months or the drive-train will begin to leak. Trans for sure, possible the T-case but I don't think so. The T-case doesn't get that low and there's not that much in it to begin with. I did run it in 4x4 on stands until I blew the half shafts. That was because there's no way to support the front end properly when in the air. New that wasn't right...neglected it anyway, paid big-time later dangit.

Like I said, good suggestions above, but I'd probably clean yours up underneath, top everything off and run it. Make absolutely sure you know how to check everything correctly, and if you do change the fluids, adhere to what Labnerd is telling you for the best results. You have to understand, that dude can have a little taste of any lubricant and tell you everything about it. That's IF you can get him to.
Other than that, go by the book, use ONLY Motorcraft maintenance replace parts...seriously.

A little concerned about the way it was started to warm, then shut down to maintain it. That helps the engine seals, but could also have adverse affects since there's not enough burn off time IMO. Moisture could collect and sludge the engine up inside regardless of oil change regimen. Check under the oil fill cap and PCV system for evidence of this. You most likely alright alright, but you might want to flush the block within the first 100 miles or so first...with a 100% synthetic. Yea, look for a white sludge buildup where directed.
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BTW, - I keep fresh fuel in the truck by siphoning the fuel out of it for the tractor lawn more weed eater, snow-thrower throughout the year. It very easy to do.

At the top rear of the fuel tank there is a blue vent with a fuel/vapor hose attached. Just move the pinch clamp back, then hose everything down with a little WD40. Work the hose off the vent, then turn the vent one quarter turn counter clockwise and remove it from the tank. You'll have a 1 1/4" hole in the top to siphon from.

I have mine rigged up with a little valve as a small engine fuel station lol.
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Very fortunate to find a truck like that..that's for sure. Probably still has that new truck smell inside, IF it's been stogie free.