Hello All,

I am working on the vehicle above. Originally I replaced the front main seal as it was leaking like a sieve when it arrived. After changing the seal and sending it on its way...... it leaked like a sieve. Again, since I thought I screwed up, I replaced the front main and sent it on its way........ it leaked like a sieve.

It is coming back in a few days and my customer is not very pleased. Its a work truck that travels several states to and from. Uses massive amounts of oil. Throws is everywhere. I'm a small shop and do things by the book. Rarely do I have issues like this and I need help.

I am now wondering what may be the cause of this seal leaking? Could the crankcase ventilation system be the issue? Have I installed the seal incorrectly.... TWICE? Could there be other issues I am not thinking about? This engine leaks BIG!!!! High miler at 190,000 now but runs really well.

I use the harmonic balancer installer as the seal installer after seating the seal slightly. I then go in with a large socket and set the seal in another .100" +-. Of course, the balancer key is sealed with Ultra Black as per the Ford Instructions. I follow the Ford Repair Procedures as closely as I can.

Your thoughts Please!
Thank you
Peter

 

Bad PCV? Extra pressure in the crankcase could cause oil to come out. I guess it would come out at the rear main seal too.
I know you said you work by the book but is the seal inserted in the correct direction?
Could the timing cover be cracked and therefore make the new seal useless?

 

Write this on the wall in your office, seals rarely leak by themselves. The issue is the front main bearing has play in it and it's beating the seal out. Most likely, the rest of the bearings are bad as well and the engine needs a new lower end. But that can also make for other issues. Because you've replaced all of the lower bearings, oil pressure at the bearings is now restored to factory original. The rings may not hold up to the additional oil being sprayed on the cylinder walls and it can become a real oil burner. You'll need to pull the pan and replace the front bearing and hopefully yer a Christian kinda guy as I would suggest a prayer over it. If the other bearings are bad, the new front one is going to play out in a few thousands miles again. Might plastigauge the entire lower end.

 

I am a little confused but that happens sometimes...lol
I don't see anywhere in your post that says you changed the main bearings? Only the front main seal or actually the crankshaft seal is that correct?..Twice?
Any way if you are not getting the damper seated completely the seal will leak as the seal actually rides on the damper rear collar, even if you didn't put RTV on the crank keyway oil would seep out not pour out. These engines can develop crank end play but not severe end play as the second crank main throw will move up against the second block main cap and cannot go any further so excessive movement by the main bearing is usually not a problem with the front crankshaft seal. Over pressure of the crankcase could be a problem as Labnerd explained. You may have a cracked damper or damage at the rear collar allowing oil to flow out and possibly destroying the seal as well. I would pressurize the crankcase using no more the 8 psi. That is the amount of pressure the factory uses to test every engine for crankcase leakage. watch the area around the front seal and use soapy water to watch for bubbles. A cracked front cover obviously could be the problem as well. When the seal is installed the smooth side should face outward toward the radiator the grooved side faces in toward the oil pump. Also make sure the oil pan gasket is not the problem. Another issue is when people remove the old seal sometimes they gouge the aluminum front cover seal pocket and the seal area leaks through that damaged surface. Good luck. P/S only install the front seal flush with the front cover surface you may be setting it to deep.

 

Hi All,

Thanks for your input, all much appreciated. In the end, I replaced the damper as the OEM had the slightest of seal land wear. I measured it with a knife edge caliper and found the grove was .0015" deep.

The new damper, a Harmon for $75 was a cheap try/fix. Just for giggles, I measured the diameters of the old and new lands on the dampers and found the Harmon to be 1.8875" and the old at the "unworn" locations was 1.886". Don't hold me to the exact numbers as I'm pulling this from my memory banks. But I remember the difference from old to new was .0015".

Anyway, it appears the fix was the new damper. I had thought about a Speedi-Sleeve but it was $35.00 and I had to wait another day for it. Hence, the aftermarket Harmon. So far, so good.

Thanks again for the help.
Pete