I've got a 1993 351 Windsor with 136k on it sitting on the stand ready for my first rebuild, and would appreciate some support as I proceed.

In addition to the basic engine components, what items are candidates for replacement while I have the engine out? Waterpump? Oil pump? Other?

Thanks.

 

You really didn't give much information for anyone to help. Will it need a rebore? Are you taking it back to stock or any mods involved? What is the reason for rebuilding such a low mileage engine? How are the heads and valves? What are you attempting to get out of it-stock reliability...more power...better fuel economy...???? What transmission is behind it? It all makes a difference. Obviously, anything on the inside that is a wearable part needs to be new.

 

This is what happens when you start multiple threads - continuity is lost.

 

I must not have been clear. I'll try again.

This thread has nothing to do with any previous posts, hence the new thread.

At this point, I'm curious what components, other than the basic engine, might be considered for replacement...even though they had not failed in the original motor, i.e. water pump, oil pump, fuel injectors, alternator, air pump, radiator, etc. etc.

In other words, items that might be replaced "as long as I'm at it."

I'm rebuilding to stock, nothing non-OEM.

Thanks.

 

Get a machine shop. Theyll help you. Does it have roller rockers? you might have the machine shop check the condition of the cam and lifters you might want to replace them. I know towards the end of the 351w they went with a fully rollerized valve train. Roller rockers roller cam. Not sure if the 93 MY got it.. I would want to go rollerised if it wasnt already..

 

This one is not rollerized.

 

I'm about to make contact with a shop I've located that has a decent rep to discuss my engine work.

Keeping in mind that this is a stock rebuild, with no known component failures, are there any of the following checks that will likely not be required?

main journal line bore
cam line bore
crankshaft check
deck machining
valve guide work

These are the items I noted rebuilders mentioning on the web, but they are typically building a non stock motor, or are doing a build with a block that is not a known quantity.

Are there other items I should be prepared to discuss with the shop?

I expect to replace the valves, pistons, injectors and timing chain.

Any other input is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

if I were doing a stock "overhaul" I would check the cylinders for wear. If they are not badly worn I would hone it out and use oversize rings. If worn it has to be bored and you'll need new pistons. I would have the crank checked same deal might be able to polish it up and re bearing and that's all. Might need to be ground a bit. I've never line bored a cam. The guides can usually be nuraled (spelling).. The valves reground. New springs are a good idea they get old and dont close as fast but for a engine that isnt going to see high RPM the old springs are fine. Might have the heads surfaced but again that might not be nessesary same with the deck.. I would just get a new cam and lifters no mater what..

 

I'm jumping into the project, and rather than rely on the group here excessively, I've ordered both the Reid and Monroe books on the small block Fords...both of which deal specifically with the 351W.

Thanks for the support.

 

I've completed the teardown, with some interesting results.

The motor has what I would consider to be a good amount of sludge. The oil screen was virtually clean, and while I had no magnet in the pan or plug, I see absolutely no metal in the pan. The cylinders look to be in very good condition, with no wear ring at the ridge, and a minimal deposit ridge. After lightly scoring the first cylinder trying to use a ridge reamer, I abondoned its use, and was able to lightly tap the rings clear of the deposit ridge and free the pistons. The pistons and rods all look good, and if not for an abundance of caution, I think I could easily reuse them.

The push rods and rockers appear to be in good condition, however the cam has some real wear problems. The crank looks good, with the journal bearings and connecting rod bearings showing what I would expect is nominal wear for a 136k motor. They show some copper, particularly in the upper front bearing cap, which I understand is to be expected with this ac/ps/ap equipped serpentine setup.

I've kept the crank bearings in order, and can post pictures if there is any interest in opinions on their state of wear. I'd be happy to post pictures of the cam as well, which is in surprisingly poor shape. I think this may be the source of the noise discused in earlier threads, as the timing chain and sprockets looked fine. I believe the bearing wear pattern would tell a story to a more experienced eye.

Recall that this motor was torn down while still having acceptable and farily uniform compression in all cylinders, and with no known failures. It looks to me like it was very good timing, as the cam wear seems to be an indication of some lubrication loss in the top end, and likely foretold a coming failure.

Jethat's latest advice is exactly my plan. While the state of the cam definitely had me considering going rollerized, the cost appears to be prohibitive for this OEM daily driver.

I do have a couple of questions:

Is it worth the cost to go ahead and have the crank and block magnafluxed?

I plan on purchasing a rebuild kit once the block and heads are cleaned and inspected. I will replace the valves, springs, pushrods, lifters, pistons, and cam.

What are some good quality rebuild kit names? I see prices varying greatly.

Thanks.

 

Since it sounds like you need a cam anyway, I would install a mild one for a little extra power.

 

Unless money is an issue, I would strongly suggest taking it to a machine shop and have them do the rebuild. You'll need to pull and replace the cam bearings which is probably beyond your experience level. You can reuse the pistons but with new rings and I'd replace the wristpins. The rods I would have magnafluxed as well as the block. If reusing the heads have them magnafluxed as well. Replace the cam obviously. I'd suggest calling Comp Cam and see what they suggest for your type of driving. They can set it up for economy or for more power but at the expense of economy- you have options here so chose wisely. You'll need their springs, retainers, and lifters. DO NOT reuse any lifters. I would suggest if you intend to run this truck for the long haul to also use Comps timing chain and gears. The stock unit will stretch over time and can cause timing issues, theirs doesn't. Replace the oil pump. I'd suggest a high volume pump but not a high pressure unit- there is a difference.You can have the machine shop do the honing of the cylinders which will knock the glaze off of it and put the engine back to a short block. You can do the heads and final assembly but if you are using Comps parts you'll need to take the parts with the engine to the machine shop at the same time.
If you decide to go roller lifters, you'll need to make this decision before calling Comp Cams or selecting any cam. The profiles are completely different. You may want to chat with the Comp folks about the change. Personally, for a daily stock driver I doubt I'd make the change. There are advantages just like there are disadvantages. As I recall, there's very little of the exhaust left on the truck. You may want to consider long headers. Shortys are worthless but the longs can bring more power and make for an easier breathing engine. Loud mufflers are not necessary but most folks will want a little engine sound. A single chambered muffler on duals would be a good thing.

 

I'm still considering my cam options, and while this truck is set up for towing, with the stock tow package, xmission cooler, and f250 leaf springs (its an F150 4x4)...I very rarely tow anymore. This 351W is the HO version already, and has all the power that I need. At this point in life I have little interest in hotrodding the truck, so I'm leaning on this first build effort producing a reliable OEM rebuild. I'll save the hotrod effort for the next build; my ratrod.

I will call Comp Cams and discuss my options. I will have the machine shop do the cam bearing replacement.

I plan on a new oil pump, water pump, and injectors. I forgot to mention that I'd been running with nearly straight water in the cooling system for years, and have some corrosion. I'll likely do a new radiator as well.

I also plan a Flowmax exhaust upgrade, though I've not worked that out yet. The stock setup is a Y-pipe to a single exhaust, which has gone south just forward of the muffler...so I know I have some options there: headers to dual, cat back Y to dual, or cat free. At this age my hormones are pretty much under control, but I would like to have a more agressive sound...I not dead yet

I'll get the heads and block scoped out by the shop before I buy a rebuild kit, so that I can see if I need a bore or just a hone, with the plan of having them press the wrist pins for me.

One question:
I wanted to set up an engine test stand to support this build as well as future ones, but am guessing it would be difficult with the electronic controls.

Is there a cost effective way to do that?

Thanks for the advice.

 

What is the prefered method of cleaning the pistions?

Also, for my OEM rebuild, is it worth the effort to replace the pressed-in rocker studs with screw in, or is that something typically done only for higher performance engines?

Also, also, my lower intake manifold is aluminum. Is it acceptable to media blast it to clean it up, since I understand hot-tanking is not compatible with Al?

Thanks.

 

You can have the pistons boiled with the block and heads. They'll clean up like new. I'd have the machine shop install the new rings.
On the rocker studs, unless you decide to get out in left field with a radical cam, it's not necessary and is a waste.
You can boil an aluminum intake but I'm getting the idea you would rather do as much as possible yerself on this project. If just removing grease, use 2/3 water mixed with 1/3 Dawn and spray it down. Rinse after a few minutes with high pressure water. Any left over areas spray again and use a toothbrush or similar to scrub the gunk off. You can also soda blast the intake with a home made unit IF you have decent size compressor. I'm attaching a linky to make yer own soda blaster. If you don't have a decent size compressor, you can have it walnut shell blasted as well as soda blast it. I would suggest that if you do either of the blast processes to spray it with Alumablast paint. It'll keep it looking dandy for a long time.
A test stand, I doubt you really want to spend the bucks for one. They cost in the thousands for a live engine stand. You can buy a static engine stand for assembly for a few hundred bucks. While I haven't bought one in a long time as they last forever, I would assume somebody like Summit Racing would be able to help you out. A stand sure beats rolling an engine around on a concrete floor. Makes difficult jobs real easy.
I hear you saying "rebuild kit" but I would suggest using parts that are recommended to you by the machine shop rather than a "kit". Kits are a known problem child with "one fits all" parts. That may not work for you. You can order a full gasket set and then chat with the machine shop about what rings, wristpins, seals, bearings, etc for your application. They're going to know exact specifics whereas we are chatting in general here. I would strongly suggest chatting with them about moly plasma top piston rings. While not a high performance application, these rings sets can bring a lot of engine life to the table. I would also suggest rubber valve cover gaskets. You only hand tighten them. I use a socket on a long extension and put oil on my hands. There is no ratchet handle, just the extension and that way you can't over tighten them.
Not knowing if you've done anything like this before, understand that everything that has a bearing surface must be pre-lubed before assembly. There are pre-assembly lubes available. Because you are replacing the cam, you'll most likely want to buy the cam makers assembly lube which may come to you like a grease or it can be a fluid that is poured over the lifters. Cylinders can be the likes of STP or some use lithium grease. But nothing metal to metal goes together dry. Obviously gaskets are excluded but some like a sealant like CopperCoat on the gaskets anyway. If you decide to stay with a flat lifter instead of rollers, make sure the first oil that engine sees is Delo 400LE in 15w-40. It's high in ZDDP whereas most OTC motor oils do not have near enough for break in, especially at the cam. Comp also has an oil additive and if using their cam, use their additive for warranty purposes.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-o.../soda_blaster/