When I first start my 2001 Screw 5.4, the engine runs up to about 1800 to 2000 rpms then starts to slow down. I hate doing this to a cold engine. I'd really be leary of doing this in the north country in sub zero weather. Is there anyway to keep them from doing this? I'd like to keep it under 1k rpms at start up if possible.

 

Your system is supposed to have an anti-backflow so that all the oil does not return to the oil pan.

I don't know of any way to do what you are asking, That is the way they are all setup

 

The anti-drainback valve in the filter only keeps oil in the filter. It does nothing for all the bearings etc. throughout your engine. So that initial blast of 2000 rpms is running on dry motor parts.

 

That engine should not be doing that...I have heard of fast idles before but there is something wrong there...have you done a code read???could be MAF...Mine only goes to less then 1K...which is too much....should not even do that in Fla...Its not could enough to fast idle like that...Could be a temp sensor...

If everything checks out, I bet you could get a chip programmer to change it...its just a matter of finding someone who knows enough to do this....

How long does it fast idle????

Mine sounds like its fast idling, but its the fan that is not unclutched after it was shut down in the latched position and it makes a racket for at least a minute...I havent figured out how to get the fan unclutched...I guess I need to unclutch it before I shut it down.....

 

What you are experiencing is completely normal.

That anti-drainback valve in the filter does, in fact, keep the oil at the top of the engine. Look at it this way, if you use the wrong filter, as some here have done, the oil drains back down into the pan. When the engine is started, these owners experience a momentary rattling. The rattling is an indication of an oil starved engine.

Engineers have found that revving the engine to 1700 rpm or so at startup does not harm it. In fact, along with the use of modern thinner oils, it's a lot better for a cold engine. The oil pressure comes up a lot faster and because the engine isn't under load, it's a lot healthier for it than if you were running thicker oils, used a filter without a valve, and kept engine startup rpm at around 700.

Is this your first fuel injected Ford? Fuel injected Fords have been doing this for as long as I can remember. I think carb'd Fords rev'd even higher, as I recall... They'd rev right up and people would rev them up even higher to kick it down back to a low idle speed. How healthy was that?

 

My wifes fuel injected Miata revs up some on start as well, maybe 1100 but not the 1500 to 2000 my Ford does. Just doesn't seem right but I guess if it's normal, doesn't mean I have to like it, just live with it.

As for the filter drain back valve: I don't see how that valve will keep anything from draining out of the pump, draining out of the hydraulic lash adjusters in the top end, drain out of the journals in the crank, etc. I can only see how it would keep oil in part of the filter and in part of the oil galley of the block up to the point of the journals possibly. I guess that may be enough, assuming it works.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Dennis ---I disagree with you---I believe that a dry engine(after the engine has been sitting over night) is when 95% of engine wear occurs...

A check valve in the filter is not going to do anything for a dry start except limit the time that it runs dry by not having to fill the filter with oil...It does not keep oil in the top end...all the oil drains into the pan except whats in the filter and galleries...a check valve keeps oil in the filter...

And i disagree also about reving the engine when its dry to 1700 rpm...without oil pressure this equals accelerated wear...I can see reving it after its has oil pressure...

I do agree about the thinner oils...building pressures faster...

On the carb...they fast idled, to warm up faster and so they would idle as well, yes u had to kick em to get them to come off of fast idle...unless u slammed it into gear...

When i start my engine it doesnt go up to 1500 and doesnt stay there, and is back to idle before I releash the key from the start position...this is the way I have seen in my injected fords...

Maybe I guess I mistook Irutt...

 

Irutt--we were posting at the same time---look at the context--we pretty much said the same thing....

How long does it rev?????

does it sweep up there and then drop immediately???

does it go to 2000????

Now that you mentioned this I am going to go and make sure when the wife gets home...

 

Mine goes to about 1500 for a 15-20 seconds and works it's way down. Always has since new, my 98 Expy does it too, so did my 97 F-150. All are 5.4ls. Ford mechs etc said it was normal.

 

I was just noticing that you are from Colorado...Is it cool up there and is the air less humid up there...

I guess I just realised that here in texas and probably in FLA..its 105 and 60%...no need for fast idle here...maybe that's why I did not notice...Right now in summer, for this is truck is new, I get no fast idle...
I could see when it cools down I will check it again...

 

Mach1
It has been hot in Denver this summer, I think they hit 101 on Sunday. I live in the mountains so I was in the low 80s, same day. Our humidity is usually pretty low, you really notice the dryness of skin,especially in the winter when it is really low. Denver averages about 14-15 inches of rain a year, where I am it's more like 10 inches.
My trucks have always started that way on the first start of the day no matter what the outside temp. Guess it is the nature of the beast!!
Have a good one.

 

Just trying to reconize things.....you say at first start up...what about hot????

It gets down to 80 at 2AM...

You guys bring up some good points...difference in climates....

I dont even have to let the truck warm up...just get in at any time and start, in gear and go....

So do you see a difference between hot and cold...or does your rev all the time when started????

just asking....

 

When hot it jumps to about 900 or so and comes right down. I am so used to it I don't pay any attention to it anymore. If I remember right I think my buddy's 2000 V-10 does it too.I'll have to check when I see him.

 

This is an interesting realization for me...I will have to consider the geographical location and climate before responding...

Like you said Its just go and not even aware of the idle, until it gets pointed out , then wow thats the way it is...Ours doesnt go over 1K...

So when its cold you have to watch about going into gear right away...

I am ready for some of that weather...last i heard we broke the record for 100+ straight days--22 in a row and still counting...its hot..

Thanks for the feedback....

 

Just to add another variable to the whole mix. I park mine in the garage, and I'm in Washington state. It's been in the low 50's at night and low 70's for the high. When I start mine, it'll go to 1200-1500 or so for about five seconds, then start dropping gradually.

After I see that all the idiot lights have gone out, I put her in gear and I'm on my way. You don't have to let these engines warm up like the good ol' days. The oil warms up faster when it's driven and can flow better to all those delicate valve train components.

I tend to agree that the initial high rpm's is better for these engines when cold. The oil pressure is built up faster, thus, sending the oil to the cam faster. On a "slow" rpm start, the oil may take a few more seconds to build up enough pressure to get up to the cams, so they would be running "dry" for an additional few seconds as compared to the "fast" rpm start where the pressure is full almost immediately.

Just total theory on my part. No evidence at all. All I know is my 70k mile "dino" oiled rig has no rattles on cold starts and burns no oil between it's 3k changes, KOW (knock on wood).