Well I am about ready to pull the engine in my truck and take it in to be built- forged bottom end, new blower setup.. etc. I removed the radiator and shroud, Now I am wondering how I remove the support and the other fluid cooler- the big one behind the radiator.. Also, How to I relieve the pressure on those a/c lines? Thanks!

 

The motor can come out without removing the front clip, at an angle. And unbolt the a/c pump from the side of the block, keep it off to the side and you wont need to drain it. Nothing else is attached to the motor, just the pump. The only thing is, if you go with a bigger oil pan during your swap, it wont go back in that easily. But many of us have removed the engine from the bay, without removing the core support, trans or disconnecting the ac. Intake manifold must come off though.

 

Thanks for the help yeah i'm not planning on changing the oil pan. So here's my other question, is it easier to pull the engine AND trans together, or to disconnect the trans and just pull the engine? What are the pros and cons of each? Will the trans fit through without removing the core support? I couldn't quite tell from what you said..

 

Not sure, but I can guess that the fit would be tighter if possible at all trying to take the trans with it.

Trans can stay... You can simply unbolt the trans and torque converter from the flex plate (through the inspection plate underneath, 4 bolts) support it with a jack and when the engine is ready to come out, lift the engine out of the mounts and pull it forward to dislodge it from the trans (make sure it is supported). Then proceed to lift the engine out. When it goes back in is the tricky 2 man job. Youll have to line up the torque converter studs to the flex plate and connect the trans then drop it back down into the motor mounts. One person on the bottom lining it up coaching the person on the picker side which way to move it. Not that tricky, but just a bit. Took me about 15 mins to line things up properly. Dont forget you also have the exhaust to line up at that point. Not to bad though. Just takes some though and tricky movements.

It will help to have one of those adjuster thingy mabobbers on the cherry picker. Where you can change the angle of balance without having to change the pick point. Because you will need to change the angle a few times as it is coming out to clear the firewall. I did not use one and after I removed the trans and had the engine out of the mounts I had to set it back down and move the hook down a few links to re pick it at a sharper angle if that makes sense. So one of those things will help a lot. Something like this



The best to points seem to be the rear bell housing/block bolt (make sure the bolt is not long enough to go into the bell housing) and front alternator bracket bolt. Make sure they are tight... it's a 500lb moto. Here you go, like this. Balances out very good.



Put them on opposite sides for better balance like I did.
See here where I had to repick it (didnt have the adjuster) so it could fit out


Heres the angle....




Not as bad as it looks.

Motorcraft filter couldnt save it....

 

Thanks for the pics. So I only need 2 bolts attached to lift the engine out? One in front and one in back? Also, from what I have read the top two bolts on the tranny are a major pain to remove.. Any special tips on the easiest way to get at those?

 

They are fairly easy if you ask me. Once the intake manifold is off you can reach an open end wrench back there from on top and crack them loose. Use the closed end with a slight angle so the wrench is angled inward, give it a little smack with a hammer to break it loose or what not, should spin out by hand. If you remove them first (no stress on them) Once you crack them loose you can spin them out by hand. Yes, 2 bolts. And the alternator bracket bolt is a small bolt, 10mm I think, just make sure it is tight and it wont have a problem. It may need a washer, depending on the chain link size you are using to make sure it doesnt slip off the end of the bolt.

BTW, your crank should be forged. Some of the standard NA 5.4L models got them (not just the lightning) . Look for the distinctive forged cast marks so you don't waste your time buying a forged crank

 

Here's my install

http://youtu.be/qxYkYQ290h8

 

You work fast. ; )

 

Well that was fun getting the TC bolts out.. NOT!! I pb'd em, torched em, pb,torched again.. I even have those extractor sockets and they couldn't get a bite on it. Grinder wouldn't fit.. sawzall wouldn't fit.. dropped oil pan and grabbed a chisel and sledge and pounded upwards on the right side of the nut and it finally popped lose.. after about four hours..

 

Wow.... Ive heard of people having issues removing those.. Mine came right off. I think the torque specs on them are somewhere under 30ft/lbs.. so I dunno why they would be such a pain to get off. If you round them, I could see it being an issue. But with the right wrench or socket and angle and someone holding the crank bolt they should crack loose pretty easily. What size were they, I remember they were pretty small, 10mm or 12mm.

 

I think mine were 14's.. I'm pretty sure whoever installed them last torqued them waaaay over spec. The 2 that didn't round I still had to use a breaker bar to get em off...

 

I use a long *** extention(nearly 2 feet) and wobbles You can get to every one of them from under. Helps if you got a guy lining them up. Then my IR impact zips them right off. Same deal in my Mustang. Had the engine out of it 3 time and I had the trans out once to convert it to a 5 speed.
My brother in-law the Tranny guy, taught me the extension wobbly trick.

 

You were talking about the 4 torque converter nuts right? Or the trans/bell housing to block bolts. I don't remember them being 14's but they could have been. That's crazy.. book says 22-30 ft/lbs for TC nuts

 

It is possible albeit very messy to remove the converter with the engine. wont hurt anything but it makes a HUGE mess converter holds about 10 quarts of fluid all of it come gushing out. couple bags of kitty litter.. I had to do mine that way. Engine was locked up solid.

 

That trick has worked well for me. But I didnt have another guy with me to line them up that day. So I went in from on top and was surprised how not so hard it was. Would have been impossible with the intake manifold on though.