After many days of making the fix for a 2005 Exped. EB 5.4 V8 that sounds like a deisal, I fired it up yesterday. This will be a few of the high points of this project. This may not be the BEST way but it is the way I did it. After geting my F150 Forum/Youtube degree on the 5.4 3 valve Ford engine by watching many videos and picking up a few pointers from each one. THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERTISE! You have saved me a lot of cash. Ordered the Cloyes engine parts kit (phasers, chains, tensioners, crankshaft chain gear, dampener crank seal & chain guides) w/Gates water pump and a 195 deg. Gates thermostat, and front cover gaskets thru ROCKAUTO. The thermostate does not come with a new Oring seal, you will need one. TOTAL $459. Autolite HT15 spark plugs were aditional $60.08 + $5.43 Priority Mail shipping. All in all a great deal. I would suggest buying or having access to the LISLE spark plug tip remover. Chances are you will need it and it works the best out of the kits available.
Here are the highlights. Remove all the items in the way, fan/shroud, belt waterpump, belt tensioner and idlers, upper radiator hose, air breather and filter box ontop of throttlebody (stuff a rag in throttlebody NOW). Remove alternator and water pump. Remove the PCM and PCM mount from right firewall. Take some photos for referance later and unplug both right and left wiring harnesses. Tie back the rigfht harness back to the hood hinge, lay the left harness next to the throttlebody for much better access to the coils and plugs. Remove the three bolts holding the power steering manifold with metal lines and swig it aside CAREFULLY not to bend or break lines. Remove power steering pump has three bolts from the bottom side. (not easy to get to) Wratchet wrenches do the trick. Swing the pump aside. No need to to pull the P.S. pulley. Leave air conditioner pump as is. Remove single screw from under middle of LFT. valve cover that holds oil level dipstick and a LARGE single BOLT on the RT. side of the engine that holds the Trans. dipstick. Remove coils and spark plugs each bank at a time and roll up a scott towel and stuff in each spark plug bore to keep all the goodies from droping in. Spray the scott towels with carb cleaner to keep the mice from chewing on them. Really It happened. Remove valve covers, LFT. side easy, RT. side not, but doable. Cover each bank with a rag to keep all the goodies out. THIS NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT!!! Take threaded shell of of one of the spark plugs you broke getting it out and push and supper glue a 10 in. long piece of air hose in the top end. Thread into cylinder #1 (FRONT CYL. PASSENGER SIDE) With 1/2 in. breaker bar rotate crank dampener in correct rotation untill compression stroke is felt with thumb on end of this high tech hose tool. Then put notch on dampener on the TDC mark on the front cover. You can also put the notch at 12 oclock. Check to see the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is at about 7 oclock. Remove the front cover and inspect for worn or broken chain guides. If broke find all the pieces. Use the prior posting as to how to remove the timing parts it is a great referance. Be sure to look at the gaskets on the back side of the tensioners. If they are not complete that will be one of your problems and was one of mine on the pass. side. Install parts with prior posting with photos. Can't go wrong. As suggested in one of the videos I used vise grips to hold the cams from turning when tourqing the phasers. You have to grind then down to fit in between the lobes. It worked but the locking tool might be better. Expensive though.
As to removing the spark plugs. The method I went with was the Ford technision that has a video on Youtube that warms up the engine puts a shot of Kroil or PB Blaster in each bore. Then took an impact and removed them. Talk about nervous!!! These plugs had 120000 miles on them and 7 out of the 8 came out with no problems. Had to extract one, of course it was #4 but went well. On reassembly coated plug threads and tip with antisize, staying away from the last 1/4 in of tip.
When all is reasembled hold gas pedal down and crank untill oil pressure comes up on gauge. Take foot off of gas pedal and START. It will probably click a few times and start up. Bring to operating temp. and recheck all fluid levels. Once satisfied with running you can reprogram the PCM by ; from a dead stop run up to 55-59 MPH and set the cruise controll and let run for about 10 to 12 miles that shoul reset the EGR and etc. Good luck with your job. Feel free to add any info that will help. Torque values are there for a reason, please use then.
The truck is running quiet as a mouse. NO TICKING!!!!