Original reply had wrong information in it, sorry bout that

 

Sorry I mis-read your post, nevermind.

 

Starting the pin-out today. Anyone know exactly how the pcm connectors come apart. I think all i have to do is pop out the red peice.

ANY suggesstions welcome.

 

There is a special tool set that works in all the connectors. Well worth for the project. Yes the red part comes out and then you slide the little tool over and the pop out the back. You will get good at it Breaking them is expensive.

Josh

 

I don't know about the special tool, but yea, pop out the insert from the back once you remove the silicone plug. I use a small blunt punch for the inserts.

Once the insert is popped/removed, each pin has a small catch inside the connector. I use a small very thin flat blade screwdriver to get between the catch and pin. While inserting the screwdriver, pull slightly on the pin wire and it will pull free from the connector.

A special tool would be handy, - I'm always replacing connectors lol.

 

I got a set of 5 wiring harness tools from snapon. Was not very much ever for snapon

Josh

 

Got the engine back yesterday, Threw out my back in the process of unloading it though.







This is the only damage that was done to the engine when it threw number 9 rod. It messed up the crank journals and number 4 rod. At the bottom of the cylinder you can see where it nicked the block, it also scratched the cylinder walls, but with 030 over, it cleaned up.

 

So what did you have done to the heads?
And what year are they?

Phil

 

I had a complete rebuild done to them. New lifters and new OE cams. Have a complete new timing set, and guides and all. Id love to port and polish them myself, but i don't know that i have the time or expertise right now. The heads are a 2000 model year, and I'm thinking i will go ahead and have the spark plug holes re-threaded right away.

Good idea or bad?

 

Yeah, good idea.

I was wandering why you didn't have them ported?

When I had my heads done, they ported them and re-welded in the plug holes. Then drilled and taped them so there is plenty of threads in the plug hole.

Phil

 

even gasket matching and some more aggressive cams will make a world of difference

 

are you using OE cams due to money? i would try and find aftermarkets the OE cams dont make good power till past 3,000 RPM.

i know my lil 4.6 doesnt make max power till 4,200 RPM

thats why when i get some money to rebuild a 5.4 i have im deff going to buy some aftermarket cams.

Looking good other wise!! this should be awesome

 

yeah, I'm thinking some aftermarket cams will do the trick, but for now the OE's will work out fine. I am in the Navy so i'm working on a small budget (assuming they pass the bill to keep paying me). As far as porting and polishing, i'm not too worried about the amount of gain i can get there. I would in turn gain some top end horsepower, but would sacrifice my bottom end torque, which is not something i want to lose (Truck vs Car).

I was wondering what the best route would be on the Spark plugs. Do i get helicoils put in, or weld up or what. Let me know what all seems to work.

I am also in need of a PI intake manifold with the Throttle Body on it. Apparently the manifold i have is for non-PI heads or just a weird casting. The back hole on the passenger side head does not line up with the water jacket. On my 5.4 the water jacket isn't even used, but on the v10 it is. That being said, does anyone have a lead on a decent intake manifold with the throttle body and adapter?

 

On the plug holes.
NO ,don't use helicoils! They fail.
If you want to do it right, get a time sert kit with 10 inserts. It will be more expensive then helicoils but the timeserts will last forever.

Not sure of where to find a intake-manifold.( I think Jbrew has a site for stuff like that)

I have a 5.4 throttle body with 10,000 miles on it ,if that would work for ya.

Phil

 

If there is nothing wrong with the existing threads, just use Motorcraft plugs and torque them to 28 ft/lb with NO antiseize - they won't blow out.