I have a 2005 F150 Lariat 4X4 with 127,000 miles and the 5.4 motor. Twice in the last 3 weeks I have had a loss of engine power and the Low Oil Pressure Light came on, the Oil Pressure Gauge was at the low position and the engine light was on. I was in stop and go traffic both times going less than 10 mph and pulled the truck to the side of the road. It didn’t have any power but I don’t believe the engine stalled because I still had power steering and only the oil and engine lights were on. I failed to look at the tachometer to confirm this because I was concerned about the low oil pressure issue and I was in an outside lane each time and basically just turned the wheel and was to the side of the road. I immediately turned the engine off and checked the oil and it was in the safe zone on the dipstick. When I restart the engine it starts up with good oil pressure and runs fine. I change the oil between 3,000 and 5,000 miles and started adding Lucas Oil Treatment about a year ago because it consumed about a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. The outside temperature was 15 degrees or less both times this has happened. Also about a year ago the truck went into Engine Failsafe Mode and lost power, but at that time the low oil pressure light did not come on. I did not see an Engine Failsafe light these last two times but I didn’t take much time checking things out, I wanted to get the engine shut down immediately. Any ideas what may be wrong?

 

Yeah, you have officially screwed up the engine with the Lucas crap. But it sounds fixable. Lucas is nothing more than polymers that thicken the oil. The polymers will condense out of the oil on the parts causing the sludge. If the fix is going to work, this is what you'll need to do. Go to Walmart and buy an oil filter and a 5 qt bottle of Super Tech oil in 5w-20. Buy a qt bottle/can of Marvel Mystery oil. MMO is a solvent and will clean the oil screen fairly quick. Run that for 1000 miles in the next few weeks- NO short drive cycles. Change the oil again using the same oil and a bottle of Auto-Rx. Auto-Rx is a lanolin ester based product and will slowly clean the internals doing no damage. Run that 1000 miles, change the filter only topping off the oil. Run that 1000 miles again and change the filter only topping off the oil. Change the oil and filter. This time use Rotella 10w-30 motor oil. You might have to run the Auto-Rx thru the engine several times to get it cleaned up.Once cleaned up, go back to any brand 5w-20 oil wearing the Ford spec on the back of the bottle.
If the drain holes in the heads are plugged up, this probably won't work and the engine will have to come apart. You might try the following. After running the engine and it's at full temp, open the oil fill on the valve cover, bring the engine up to 2000 rpms and hold it. Watch for oil to come up the oil fill. If it does, the drain holes are plugged and none of the above is going to do you any good. The engine will require a mechanic to manually clean the top end of the engine. If the drain holes are plugged, the engine has basically pumped all of the oil out of the pan onto the heads where it fills the valve covers and the oil pump starts pumping foam- not a good thing to happen.
This is where I would start with your problem.

 

are you losing oil?? if so check the seals one maybe bad this happened to my 89 one year n it was the oil pan seal its worth a try best of luck to you

 

Thanks for the info! I’m going to try the 2000 rpm check today and if that’s OK change the oil and add the MMO. A couple of questions on the fix so that I properly understand the program. You mention I may need to run the Auto-RX a few times to get it cleaned up, how do I know if I need to run the Auto-Rx a few more cycles? Just if I have the low oil problem again, or is there a test I can run? Also, why go to the 10W-30 for a cycle, what does that do?
Thanks for your Help.

 

Read this:
http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...Number=1748949

 

Fram filters are BAD NEWS.

 

Use only a Motorcraft filter.