I was trying to take the coil for cylinder #3 out and the screw seems like it's stripped. It's looks like whoever changed the spark plugs on the truck before over tightened the screw and now it's just spinning in there. After investigating some more, I noticed the the screw screws into a brass cylinder and the brass cylinder is what's spinning. So I've tried loosening the bolt forever and its just spinning. I tried a needle-nose vise grip and it won't come out. Also there's no room for me to get my hand in there. I'm out of options. Any suggestions?


Thanks

 

Try and get a screwdriver or small pry between the coil and the intake and pry up as you turn the screw. If you have to pry the brass piece out do it. You can then place some two part epoxy in the hole where the brass threaded bushing was, let it harden then drill a small hole in it and use a self tapping screw to secure the coil. It doesnt take much to hold the coil in place and thats all the screw really does.

 

Agreed. Have to try and get a thin screwdriver between the coil and brass insert and put pressure while trying to back it out. I use that method a lot removing stripped out molly's and concrete anchors.

 

Right,- for further explanation - If I recall , it only calls for 26" lbs for future ref. That brass bushing that's spinning isn't the problem (in case you don't know) and it's not threaded. The 7mm coil bolt(screw) slides thru it, - the screw threads into a threaded aluminum port.

As DYNOTECH directed, -try prying up and backing out at the same time. That's all you can do. If that doesn't work, well.....

 

So have I, - well, until I loose it,freak the nasty, grab the Tigersaw lol.

 

Wait a minute, he has a composite manifold. I'm referring to a aluminum manifold. Reason: They screw into the manifold right ? So a composite manifold has the inserts correct, that's what is spinning ?

 

Ya you had me questioning myself on that jbrew. I was just sitting here trying to recall if he had aluminum or composite after reading your post. The composite is what I was refering to in regards to using the epoxy to fill where the brass insert was then drill it and install a self tapper.

 

Yea, in the composite, I bet over-torquing could spin that insert fairly easily, - then it's not going to hold very well of course. Those coils are suppose to be somewhat loose on the bushings, so they don't crack on yuh in the future. Their suppose to move in other words. - Not knowing this, I bet people tend to think their still loose, if they can move the coil from side to side. Then crank'em down to the point of insert compromise



I think their only 26" lbs for those screws.

EDIT:

Their a little more than that, still, that's not much -

 

LOL @ freak the nasty

I have had a tiger saw since they came out years ago, heavy old tank, but wont die on me. It's like a 3rd arm sometimes... always seems to be a use for it.

 

Ya I think some people think if the screw is not tight you will get some sort of poor ground connection and a missfire. I remember dyno testing these with no screws in the coils. It made it easy for us to perform the frequent engine checks like compression, leakdown, and plug changes without having to struggle with those little screws on a hot engine. I have worked on a few where people used a tie strap to secure the coil in place of a screw so it wouldn't pop out.

 

Sounds like somebody already stripped the threads and used a brass insert to solve the issue. Now the insert is slipping in the manifold. Carefully take Super Glue and let it run in between the brass insert and the manifold. You might need a glue spout extension for this. Let it dry over night and then remove the screw.

 

The problem is, there isn't enough room to get a flat head screwdriver anywhere near the had of the bolt. There's not even enough room for a dremel.

 

Try sliding a new hacksaw blade (just the blade)in there and with a few strokes it should take the bolt head off or if you have dremel can you get a flex extension in there? Worse case cut the ear off on the COP leaving the bolted ear on the intake then install a new COP and secure it with a plastic tie strap. Sounds like a real backyard fix but just to keep you running....

 

I would say put the upward pressure mentioned, on it and use a 1/4 or 3/8 air impact on it. I found MANY times all it took was the spinning of the impact to spin it right out, as long as there is some upward pressure on it. We used a LOT of high quality plated soft steel "nutserts" that had a fine serated outer perimeter and virtually no flange that should work perfectly to replace the original "turning" insert, if you could get in there to "set" it.

 

So I had the same problem on my 2001 f150 5.4L :
I broke the COP out by just raising it up then down, tried everything, chipped out the piece left over with a screwdriver and hammer, got it down to the coil spacer, used vise grips, pry bars, wiggled the crap out of it while applying upward pressure nothing. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc, cut off the top of the bolt, pulled off the spacer and low and behold the rest of the bolt screwed right out, the bushing in the manifold was not damaged at all. Went down to O'Reilly's matched up the bolt, changed the plug, installed new COP tightened down the bolt, it doesn't have to be real tight, just snug, truck running great.

Good luck, I hope this helps you 1/29/2018