5.4 triton spark plug change
#1
09-30-2010, 03:17 PM
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Location: Kokomo, IN, USA
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5.4 triton spark plug change
I had a successful spark plug change today.
7 out of 8 came out without a hassle. Luckily, I bought the lisle extractor tool its part number is 65600 i think. I followed the ford TSB to a T and I was actually very surprised everything went as well as it did. I definitely suggest the Motorcraft carb/tuneup cleaner (PM-3) it turns the carbon deposits to a sludge and the plugs come out pretty easy. I did have to run them in and out about a half turn at a time till they loosened up good, but if you take your time it should be ok. It took me probably about 4-5 hrs total. I pulled 4 last night leaving 2 for this morning (the back plug on each side). The rear drivers side plug is the one that broke. PITA to get too but not as bad as it would have been if on the other side.
The truck has 67,800 miles on it and there has been a noticeable miss or hesitation under load or in passing gear for the last 5,000 miles or so. The plugs were noticeably worn. I don't have a feeler gauge that would fit between the ground strap and the electrode but I would guess that the gap as at least 50% out of tolerance if not more.
All the hesitation is gone and the idle is smoother now also. I expect to see some decent change in fuel mileage as well.
7 out of 8 came out without a hassle. Luckily, I bought the lisle extractor tool its part number is 65600 i think. I followed the ford TSB to a T and I was actually very surprised everything went as well as it did. I definitely suggest the Motorcraft carb/tuneup cleaner (PM-3) it turns the carbon deposits to a sludge and the plugs come out pretty easy. I did have to run them in and out about a half turn at a time till they loosened up good, but if you take your time it should be ok. It took me probably about 4-5 hrs total. I pulled 4 last night leaving 2 for this morning (the back plug on each side). The rear drivers side plug is the one that broke. PITA to get too but not as bad as it would have been if on the other side.The truck has 67,800 miles on it and there has been a noticeable miss or hesitation under load or in passing gear for the last 5,000 miles or so. The plugs were noticeably worn. I don't have a feeler gauge that would fit between the ground strap and the electrode but I would guess that the gap as at least 50% out of tolerance if not more.
All the hesitation is gone and the idle is smoother now also. I expect to see some decent change in fuel mileage as well.
Last edited by heatseaker1; 09-30-2010 at 03:20 PM. Reason: additional info
#3
10-01-2010, 08:08 PM
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Sweet! I luckily didn't have any problems other than having to be extremely careful removing one or two. No breaks! I didn't have the extractor though, so the truck would have been stuck for a while if I messed up. I had the infamous "transmission slipping" and the spark plugs fixed it.
I had some problems after the change with coil packs getting bad contact. Did you see anything like this? It caused rough idleing and misfiring throughout rpm range. Fiddling with the coil packs fixed it, but it's nerve racking to be in the middle of nowhere and it suddenly starts it up again. Would it be worth is to replace the coil packs (at $80 a piece)?
I had some problems after the change with coil packs getting bad contact. Did you see anything like this? It caused rough idleing and misfiring throughout rpm range. Fiddling with the coil packs fixed it, but it's nerve racking to be in the middle of nowhere and it suddenly starts it up again. Would it be worth is to replace the coil packs (at $80 a piece)?
#4
10-01-2010, 08:25 PM
Sweet! I luckily didn't have any problems other than having to be extremely careful removing one or two. No breaks! I didn't have the extractor though, so the truck would have been stuck for a while if I messed up. I had the infamous "transmission slipping" and the spark plugs fixed it.
I had some problems after the change with coil packs getting bad contact. Did you see anything like this? It caused rough idleing and misfiring throughout rpm range. Fiddling with the coil packs fixed it, but it's nerve racking to be in the middle of nowhere and it suddenly starts it up again. Would it be worth is to replace the coil packs (at $80 a piece)?
I had some problems after the change with coil packs getting bad contact. Did you see anything like this? It caused rough idleing and misfiring throughout rpm range. Fiddling with the coil packs fixed it, but it's nerve racking to be in the middle of nowhere and it suddenly starts it up again. Would it be worth is to replace the coil packs (at $80 a piece)?
Also, 3 valve coils are cheap, - about $80 for a complete set, not just one.
There's a V6 forum on this site you can refer to.
__________________
Nice job heatseaker1, thanks for posting. Yea it's nice having that tool handy (lisle extractor) for the 3 valve. Specially if you paln on keeping the vehicle for awhile. I've heard that Motorcraft cleaner really does the job. Having the right keeps are the marbles intact, let alone the hair on your head lol.
#5
10-04-2010, 05:13 AM
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This is what I meant by coil pack: Coil - Ignition
Sorry, I messed up my nomenclature and the price ($40 not $80 - bad memories I guess). The electrical contact problem I was talking about was where the COP plugs into the battery on top of the coil, there's a sealed plug that must be unplugged to take it off the engine block. The rubber seal was torn in one, causing contact not to be made because it wouldn't plug in all the way. That's about the best I can describe it because I'm not a mechanic, but hopefully you can visualize what I mean.
Sorry, I messed up my nomenclature and the price ($40 not $80 - bad memories I guess). The electrical contact problem I was talking about was where the COP plugs into the battery on top of the coil, there's a sealed plug that must be unplugged to take it off the engine block. The rubber seal was torn in one, causing contact not to be made because it wouldn't plug in all the way. That's about the best I can describe it because I'm not a mechanic, but hopefully you can visualize what I mean.
#6
10-04-2010, 07:18 AM
This is what I meant by coil pack: Coil - Ignition
Sorry, I messed up my nomenclature and the price ($40 not $80 - bad memories I guess). The electrical contact problem I was talking about was where the COP plugs into the battery on top of the coil, there's a sealed plug that must be unplugged to take it off the engine block. The rubber seal was torn in one, causing contact not to be made because it wouldn't plug in all the way. That's about the best I can describe it because I'm not a mechanic, but hopefully you can visualize what I mean.
Sorry, I messed up my nomenclature and the price ($40 not $80 - bad memories I guess). The electrical contact problem I was talking about was where the COP plugs into the battery on top of the coil, there's a sealed plug that must be unplugged to take it off the engine block. The rubber seal was torn in one, causing contact not to be made because it wouldn't plug in all the way. That's about the best I can describe it because I'm not a mechanic, but hopefully you can visualize what I mean.
Your price is still to high. DG511's are a little more than 508's. IF you have a 3valve or an 04+ 5.4L, you need the 511's. Since you still don't state the engine your referencing, -I'll take that as you don't know.
Anyway, 3v coils, "511's" are about $14.50 apiece.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...Q5fAccessories
2v coils "508's" are about $10.50 apiece.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNIT...Q5fAccessories
I wouldn't trust Duralast coils, - up to you.
Last edited by jbrew; 10-04-2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: posted links.
