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  #1  
Old 06-20-2010, 09:25 AM
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2001 s'crew fuel pump replacment

Looks like I need a new fuel pump. Have 40 psi in the morning that during the day dwindles down to the teens and I loose power. Fuel filter is new.

What is the best way to get into the tank? Remove the tank? Lift up the bed? Is there anything else I should replace while doing this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2010, 10:06 AM
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If it’s any thing like my 01 Expo it’s a 2hr job max. Start the truck engage the fuel shut off switch in the passenger side kick panel the truck will die.

Next open the fuel cap keep it off. I found it hard as hell to try sucking the fuel out of the tank so I didn’t but some one else might be able to help on that one.

If I remember correctly there should be 3 straps 2 horizontal to the trucks frame and one in the back. Drop the bolts while supporting it with a floor jack but I strongly recommend having a second hand when doing the drop.

Next make sure you take your time disconnecting all the rotted little hoses. You should need a quick disconnect tool to disconnect some of the houses and this can be a pita to do. I’ve found the cheap plastic disconnect tools to work the best for this.

From here all you need to do is take a flat tip screw driver a carefully smack the band that holds the pump assembly in the take counter clock wise and its self explanatory from there.

Not hard at all and once you’ve done one in tank pump you’ll have a very good idea how all cars pumps are removed on most cars made in the last 25 years. Do it your self and learn you’ll never look back again. I hope this helps and I know someone else will add to this. Good luck and take your time if in doubt
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2010, 01:28 PM
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Thanks for the reply
Did you pull the tank completely out from under the vehicle? I don't have a lift but I do have a number of jacks I can use to list the vehicle. I presume I should remove the tire by the tank?
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2010, 02:37 PM
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I've never done a fuel pump on one these trucks but many many chevys and a few dodges. One thing I always do now is remove the rear drive shaft. You will have a lot more room with it removed especially putting it back up underneath trying to get around the straps. It's only 4 12mm 12 point bolts and its out.
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2010, 04:33 PM
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I didn’t remove the tire but you could if you think it will help you. I did drop mine on the ground all the way. But I’m sure you can do it with dropping it all the way. Just make sure to be real easy on the lines as they tend to **** me off I'm sure you might feel the same after doing it. LOL Like I said before it’s too easy and if you have a second guy for the removal and install it won’t take long at all.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2010, 04:53 PM
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ty.barnwell.9 tybarnwell08
take the bed off.
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2010, 05:01 PM
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Dont waste your time pulling the bed...the pumps under the cab.
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2010, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loweman 165 View Post
Dont waste your time pulling the bed...the pumps under the cab.

must be different on a super crew
From what I see, its under more under the rear seats compared to under the bed on a standard or super cab

Last edited by Toyz; 06-20-2010 at 06:09 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-21-2010, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Loweman 165 View Post
Dont waste your time pulling the bed...the pumps under the cab.
This is correct, you will need to drop the tank(two straps). I did mine in December and the 40 degree weather and tight space made it very difficult to remove the large filler hose from the pipe.
I used two floor jacks with 2x4's to lower the tank on to a couple of 4x4 skids so I could slide it out from under the truck. My tank had about 18 gallons in it the time, and I could only siphon out 5 gallons through the filler hose before lowering the tank but the weight was no problem with the floor jacks. You just have to lower it slowly, which is a good idea when you begin, until you can access the fuel lines,hoses and elec. connections on top of the tank/pump. You do not need to remove the drive shaft. Just raise the truck on jack stands enough to give you some room to work. You can siphon the gas out easily once you have the tank down which will make it much easier to get it positioned correctly when reinstalling. I used the Motorcraft complete pump/sender assembly which came with the seal already installed (purchased from Amazon.com). I tested the new pump before installing it in the tank. I checked for leaks before raising the tank fully back in to position.
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  #10  
Old 06-22-2010, 12:29 AM
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You better feel up your relay first!!! If she's hot, -that's what may be failing. Quickest way to tell is see if it's hot to the touch. Don't let that fool you into a new pump.

I maintenance my pump and shoot, I could have the pump changed out and the tank ready to be raised in place by the time you get all those bed bolts out. Bed mount bolts can either go real easy or can be a PITA. Usually a PITA on anything w/miles behind it.

Quickest way to drain the fuel:

Crawl under the truck with a can of WD40, pliers (long pre-bent needle nose works best/45 degree bend),small skinny screw driver and one larger type. Squeeze the rear vent hose clamp together and slide it up the hose. Now douse the rear vent and vent hose w/WD40. Work it in a bit/ use small screw driver to get under the vent hose and hit it again w/WD40. The vent hose will pull off and when you turn the rear tank vent counter clockwise, - it will pull right out. Remove existing Petrol.

Use this procedure on remaining vents up top after lowering the tank a little. It's easier. DEFINITELY use WD40 on top or you'll end up getting cheesed off and breaking crap. - Trust me, you will break stuff without and don't even think about removing the bed.

If you jack it up (non 4x4 only), try to keep it level. You only need one floor jack for the tank, you can balance it fairly easy.

Good Luck.
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  #11  
Old 06-23-2010, 12:07 AM
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#6 is the one you pop to siphon fuel. -

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #12  
Old 06-23-2010, 07:20 AM
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Great job jbrew as always
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2010, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DYNOTECH View Post
Great job jbrew as always
Thanks man. Yea I pop that rear vent all the time, - when I'm to lazy to head up town with the gas can for lawnmower or snow-thrower fuel lol. It's easy.
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2010, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe View Post
I've never done a fuel pump on one these trucks but many many chevys and a few dodges. One thing I always do now is remove the rear drive shaft. You will have a lot more room with it removed especially putting it back up underneath trying to get around the straps. It's only 4 12mm 12 point bolts and its out.
you don't have to remove the rear drive shaft, just put the transfer case in neutral. Then pull away. Goodluck.

Last edited by rockercar; 07-17-2010 at 04:32 AM.
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  #15  
Old 07-17-2010, 02:47 AM
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???????????

I don't see how putting the transfer case in neutral is going to help you drop the gas tank........
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:47 AM


 
 
 
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