My 2 cents: When I change modular plugs the fuel rails stay on exactly for the reasons the op mentioned. I really hate to mess with the injectors and risk losing or damaging an o-ring if I don't have to. It really isn't that hard with the rails in place.
I also get a little confused when people talk about using universal joints when changing plugs. Granted, I haven't done a lot of modular tuneups, (maybe half a dozen, probably half and half 4.6/5.4?) but I've always been able to get a straight shot at all of the plugs with the right combination of extensions.
Put me down as a member of the no antisieze club. You guys can argue all you want about whether it makes the plugs back out. I personally don't like it because I changed a set of 4.6 plugs a few years ago that had been put in with antisieze. It left the threads in the heads all gummed up and made it VERY hard to tell if the new plugs were going in straight. There were a couple of plugs that I honestly couldn't tell whether or not were crossthreaded until they tightened down. That experience really turned me off to using antisieze.

 

MGD
#1 I didn't ask any questions

#2 I am sorry if I offended anybody

#3 I never said anything bad about the State of Texas

#4 I never said the state of Texas was not in the USA.

#5 Sounds like you are insulting me when I didn't even talk to you( Insultini)

#6 Maybe you should change you name to F150fella08FAN.

Have a very nice weekend Sir.

 

You did:

Apology accepted. Very good of you. But, it's not me you offended. That is almost impossible for someone like you to do, lol.

You did:

Wow. Rilly? See above - the inference was patently obvious - except to you, apparently. You insult Texas - you insult yer own country. This - coming for a Canuckistanian, lol.

Yer perception, but I'll let it slide - that was purely a joke - a target of opportunity (common on this site) - that again apparently you did not get. Hint = Smiley-face. That would be this thang here:

LOL! No need; I like my handle just fine, thanks. He is just a youngin' that I happen to like - and you sir, are very much portraying yerself as a venal, shallow, ignorant, intolerant and abrasive bully. I'm SURE that's not what you are really about, but, that is the message.

Thanks. And to you as well. Sultini, you need to lighten up just a tad here - okay? You can verbally joust with me all day long if you wish (good luck with that, BTW) and I would be more than happy to oblige. Always. IF we keep it friendly and light-hearted.

Here's an example: You **** & moan about a job that takes me all of 1-2 hours to do (and I'm SLOW... there's folks who can do a 2V in 30 minutes, no chit) - and that's with one hand, since the other one has a beer in it at all times. I Pray you never own a 3V with the 2-piece plugs!

Sir - Please know that, if you have any legitimate non-confrontational questions I will do everything in my power to help you. That IS a promise.

But... Don't, tacitly or otherwise, threaten kids. Not. Cool. Clear?


MGD v1.0 Yeah - it's been re-awakened for a special occasion.

On the bus!

 

Don't ever ever accuse me of threatening kids!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

1. This is what is known as a tacit threat: (is that too large a concept for you?)

2. The nice young fellow in question is just 18. Around my parts, that's not even drinking age - hence ... a kid. And in this particular case, a very personable, decent one.

So, tough guy... You do the math.

Just what we need, another Freakn' ITG

EDIT: So, sultini, whaddaya say, ya wanna get back on topic and continue discussing spark plugs, or what? Check out Denso Iridium IT-16's for the next swap. They are superb. Their install procedure has not changed (and they include both with antisieze and without) http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php.

MGD v1.0

 

Maybe you boys should have a few beers and see who can pee the farthest. Until then...


Is it ok to use wd40 on the injector o rings? Im in the middle of a swap and will be installing the fuel rail shortly, any tips like that to help make it go smooth help.

I was working on my lifted f150 once, using a plastic cooler to stand on. Was leaning in the engine bay pulling the throttle body and IAC. Got to much of an angle and WHOOP, cooler came out from under me. At the time I was unprepared and only had one hand holding me up since the other had a wrench in it. Needless to say I think the hood latch assembly left a nice mark across my chest and in the heat of the moment to catch myself, I jammed my hand in some places not meant for hands. Came out nice and scrapped up. Won't stand on plastic anymore, atleast not on a smooth surface. Started using a ladder after that...

 

Good morning sir!

LOL @ pissing contest. Y'know, if I thought it would help mend fences I'd be all for it - I'd need to let 'im win though

This won't help much with yer monster, but I deflate the front tires to lower it a bit. And put a padded moving blanket on the front to take the 'edge' off, lol.

WD-40 - that's what I've been using. For better or worse (very small quantity).

Good luck sir!

Cheers
MGD v4.2

 

no ones offended here..wise *** yes..also a smart ***

if this pissing contest is still on where can i sign up

have a good weekend fella's

 

MGD

Nasty.. vindictive ...evil.... egomanic....know it all....too many toys and not enough brains, no friends after how many posts (5000) 2 FRIENDS DOES THAT TELL YOU SOMETHING.

No follow up please I am done with you MR. twister.

PS: How come you know how old people are on the site you sound like you got a problem with younguns? I don't look up people's ages.

I will not respond anymore to your foolishness, I sure would like to have a contest with you but it wouldn't be how far.

SULTINI OUT

 

 

Exactly right, special from this user above. You may be just as sorry.

24 inch lbs on the coil hold downs. Yea, the engineers spec that for a reason, it's been posted here many times. I'll explain it again, if this becomes necessary lol.

You can use anti-seize, but you must reduce torque X 30% as a general rule, but the general rule of thumb only applies under normal circumstances. For 4 thread modular heads, anti-seize isn't needed nor is this considered a normal/general application. 9 thread plug chambers would be the general/normal, so the given reduction in torque value wouldn't be X 30%, it should actually increase mathematically. Adding it, your taking chances.

There's no "pro's" in doing so, not for this application. The "con's", -are plenty, so why chance it and being a mechanic for many years, why are you still using a milk carton to stand on, -that's a PITA. There's a much safer/better way, but some will never learn I guess, they know to much already.

 

Amateur question- Why are you not supposed to use anti seize? But you did, why is it you believe it's ok? Thx in advance

 

www.blownoutsparkplug.com

FAQ's #51 and #52.

 

Ditto for my truck too. My truck is a 2002 5.4. I changed the plugs at 119k miles. I did use anti-seize and they have been in now for 13k miles. I did not use a swivel plug socket. I tried a plug socket with a built in universal but didn't work well so I just used an extension and plug socket. I did have to pull the fuel rail on the driver's side to get to one or two of the plugs.

My factory manual says torque the plugs to 8 ft/lbs which is ridiculous. I torqued them by hand like always to what felt right.

I used the correct Motorcraft plugs bought from Advance Auto Parts for $2.xx apiece. The dealer said if they changed the plugs, they charged $10 each for the plugs. Oh, and the plugs did not have nickel on the threads, maybe on the body.