Boggs down at shift point

memLT-1 · #1 10-16-2009, 03:46 AM

I have a 06 5.4 that when its warm out tends to bogg down when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th in normal driving conditions with the peddal steady about 1/4 down. It only does this for a few seconds and then its like it gets its second wind and takes off. I have cleaned the MAF new fuel filter added Techron and run Chevron 87 fuel. Do I need a new MAF or an Intake air temp sensor? Another thought I might take off the Neg. battery cable and reboot the computer. Any other suggestions? Also its Troyer tuned with 87 perf tune. Thanks in advance for any help.

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jbrew · #2 10-16-2009, 04:09 AM

87 for a performance tune ? That can't be right?

memLT-1 · #3 10-16-2009, 04:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrew

87 for a performance tune ? That can't be right?

yes its 87 octane performance, 87 towing and 93 octane performance. Those are the 3 tunes loaded in my tuner.

jbrew · #4 10-16-2009, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memLT-1

yes its 87 octane performance, 87 towing and 93 octane performance. Those are the 3 tunes loaded in my tuner.

Yea, it's Economy, Tow and Performance I believe.

memLT-1 · #5 10-16-2009, 09:52 AM

still looking for help on the bogging issue please.

glc · #6 10-16-2009, 02:22 PM

If you are running a Troyer custom tune, contact Troyer.

memLT-1 · #7 10-22-2009, 03:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glc

If you are running a Troyer custom tune, contact Troyer.

Went back to stock. Same problem

AZTriton · #8 10-22-2009, 04:55 PM

CEL come on at all? Does the tach show the engine 'bogging down'? Does the truck shake during shifting? Doubt it's the MAF or intake air temp sensor if you're not getting a code & MAF is clean.

memLT-1 · #9 10-23-2009, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZTriton

CEL come on at all? Does the tach show the engine 'bogging down'? Does the truck shake during shifting? Doubt it's the MAF or intake air temp sensor if you're not getting a code & MAF is clean.

Not sure what the CEL is. RPM's drop maybe 100 rpm' no shaking. This only takes place for 1 to 2 seconds then picks like it got a shot of nitro.

trackerbrent · #10 10-23-2009, 09:24 AM

My 2004 just started to do the exact same thing yesterday. It boggs down between 1300-1800 RPM and then will just take off. What the heck is going on with our trucks? It is in the electronic throttle module? My truck is completly stock. No CEL's or codes being thrown.

AZTriton · #11 10-23-2009, 12:48 PM

CEL = Check Engine Light. It only drops about 100rpm but only does this when the engine if fully warmed up? Does it only do this when shifting? Smooth when running otherwise? Did you try disconnecting the battery and resetting the PCM? How many miles on the truck?

memLT-1 · #12 10-27-2009, 03:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZTriton

CEL = Check Engine Light. It only drops about 100rpm but only does this when the engine if fully warmed up? Does it only do this when shifting? Smooth when running otherwise? Did you try disconnecting the battery and resetting the PCM? How many miles on the truck?

Well I say 100rmp but never really watched could be 200rpm. Yes only when fully warm. Have not disconnected the battery. 39,000 miles. Runs smooth otherwise. Only when going from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. and then like I said it does it for a secon or so.

jbrew · #13 10-27-2009, 04:39 PM

Edit , my bad. I guess you can get a 87 performance tune. I thought the 87 was called the economy tune in a canned set.

Trans tables rely on MAF and TPS info. Usually a TPS problem generates DTC, but not always; same goes for the MAF. The bad about that is they have to be about spent in order for that to happen. With an 06 3 valve, in this case, I would pull the rail/leave the injectors connected to rail/lay a bunch of rags down(just in case)/ reconnect the battery/ Turn key to run = charge the rail.

If you have a bad injector, which is common in the 05/06 model years, it will be leaking with rail charged.

You can also test for PCM driver signal to injector, but that's not a common problem. Stethoscope each injector while running, if it's clicking, the driver's fine.

Make sure the battery is FULLY charged - over 12 volts, not under.

It does this in the same EXACT way, every time? Idunno, it could be over-fueling. The very first thing to do is look thru all the 2006 3 valve TSB's, there's a ton of them lol. Those can be real helpful. You might want to get your stock tune re-flashed, -I know there's updates @ Ford. I think it will cost yuh 80 - $90 tho. Not sure what effect that may have on your other tunes if any. Yea, TSB's first.

BTW- Make sure you fully reboot, -I pull the PCM fuse/fuses along with a battery disconnect for KAM erase/reset.

Good Luck