Champion Plugs...Real Problem Or Not?
#1
Champion Plugs...Real Problem Or Not?
I am having my plugs changed next week in my 2006 5.4 Screw(or after I run one more tank of gas with valve cleaner throught the truck). My mechanic is suggesting using the new design Champion plugs. I searched the forums somewhat and did not find a specific issue of problem using the champion over motorcraft.
Does any one have an actual documented problem using champion plugs in the 3V 5.4L?
By the way, the cost will be $590, the ford dealer wants $980 and warns that if a back plug breaks they will need to remove the cab...total of $2500.
2006 XLT SCREW, 5.4, 4X4, 3:73
Goodyear SA LT275/70R18
Pulling a Nash 22H
Does any one have an actual documented problem using champion plugs in the 3V 5.4L?
By the way, the cost will be $590, the ford dealer wants $980 and warns that if a back plug breaks they will need to remove the cab...total of $2500.
2006 XLT SCREW, 5.4, 4X4, 3:73
Goodyear SA LT275/70R18
Pulling a Nash 22H
#2
Goodness! What are the labor rates? Mine were changed at the dealer for $325.
I would not take it to a dealer that thinks they have to remove the cab. That is ridiculous. Neither would I take it to a mechanic unless he has lots of experience with the removal and follows the TSB.
I would not take it to a dealer that thinks they have to remove the cab. That is ridiculous. Neither would I take it to a mechanic unless he has lots of experience with the removal and follows the TSB.
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Jim
Jim
#4
#6
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I've put Champions in a handful of 3Vs, and they all came back within two or three weeks with random misfire codes.
Figures. The only folks out there who have the initiative to design a mass produced, readily available one piece 3V spark plug (I know, I know, Brisk makes them too, they don't count) can't seem to figure out how to make the plug fire/operate properly in a 3V engine.
I heard a while back that NGK was working on a one piece 3V plug, don't know whatever became of that.
And yeah, anyone who says you have to pull the cab to get to the rear plugs in the event that one breaks, run away from them, 'cause they don't know WTF they're talking about. Lisle makes an awesome removal tool, for about $100 or so, that works like gangbusters to get the plugs out where there's porcelain still in them. There's another tool that's $60-70 that works well for removing just the ground shield if the porcelain comes out.
If someone's getting $600 to do these plugs...I'm shortchanging myself. We do them for about half of that, parts, labor and all. I don't remove cabs, engines, cylinder heads, or any of that other hokey business.
Figures. The only folks out there who have the initiative to design a mass produced, readily available one piece 3V spark plug (I know, I know, Brisk makes them too, they don't count) can't seem to figure out how to make the plug fire/operate properly in a 3V engine.
I heard a while back that NGK was working on a one piece 3V plug, don't know whatever became of that.
And yeah, anyone who says you have to pull the cab to get to the rear plugs in the event that one breaks, run away from them, 'cause they don't know WTF they're talking about. Lisle makes an awesome removal tool, for about $100 or so, that works like gangbusters to get the plugs out where there's porcelain still in them. There's another tool that's $60-70 that works well for removing just the ground shield if the porcelain comes out.
If someone's getting $600 to do these plugs...I'm shortchanging myself. We do them for about half of that, parts, labor and all. I don't remove cabs, engines, cylinder heads, or any of that other hokey business.
#7
the plugs arent bad at all when they come out. the problems are with the first plug change, if you go with the motorcrafts and do follow the tsb and use nickel antiseize then you shouldnt have the same problem the next plug change or at least they wont be hard to get out if they do break. but the champions you dont have to worry about antiseize but you have to change them more often, yes they are warrantied, but what happens if one fails and takes a cat with it? thats on you. IMO do it right with the motorcrafts the first time.
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#8
#9
So let me ask you guys this, when they take out this plug and have this problem, does the plug turn as it normally would? I mean, when you turn the plug counter clockwise does it just loosen like regular but the tip is just stuck in there or can you feel you have a problem?
thanks
thanks
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Jim
Jim
#10
I did a search for you. Here is some reading if you have not seen them.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...tool-tips.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ht=broken+plug
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...e-results.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=broken+plug
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...tool-tips.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ht=broken+plug
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...e-results.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=broken+plug
__________________
Jim
Jim
#12
Thanks a lot Bluejay... I have learned one thing for sure when doing searches. You are everywhere. Im new here and was already gonna email you. Anyway I did do a lot of searches prior to asking and have seen then pics. Sorry I wasnt around a comp, and you did those searches but thanks anyway. Im sure someone looking at this will greatly appreciate it. But I was asking about the feel when the problem occurs. I mean can you tell something is wrong when removing the plug?
thanks again
thanks again
#13
Thanks a lot Bluejay... I have learned one thing for sure when doing searches. You are everywhere. Im new here and was already gonna email you. Anyway I did do a lot of searches prior to asking and have seen then pics. Sorry I wasnt around a comp, and you did those searches but thanks anyway. Im sure someone looking at this will greatly appreciate it. But I was asking about the feel when the problem occurs. I mean can you tell something is wrong when removing the plug?
thanks again
thanks again
#14
I've put Champions in a handful of 3Vs, and they all came back within two or three weeks with random misfire codes.
Figures. The only folks out there who have the initiative to design a mass produced, readily available one piece 3V spark plug (I know, I know, Brisk makes them too, they don't count) can't seem to figure out how to make the plug fire/operate properly in a 3V engine.
I heard a while back that NGK was working on a one piece 3V plug, don't know whatever became of that.
And yeah, anyone who says you have to pull the cab to get to the rear plugs in the event that one breaks, run away from them, 'cause they don't know WTF they're talking about. Lisle makes an awesome removal tool, for about $100 or so, that works like gangbusters to get the plugs out where there's porcelain still in them. There's another tool that's $60-70 that works well for removing just the ground shield if the porcelain comes out.
If someone's getting $600 to do these plugs...I'm shortchanging myself. We do them for about half of that, parts, labor and all. I don't remove cabs, engines, cylinder heads, or any of that other hokey business.
Figures. The only folks out there who have the initiative to design a mass produced, readily available one piece 3V spark plug (I know, I know, Brisk makes them too, they don't count) can't seem to figure out how to make the plug fire/operate properly in a 3V engine.
I heard a while back that NGK was working on a one piece 3V plug, don't know whatever became of that.
And yeah, anyone who says you have to pull the cab to get to the rear plugs in the event that one breaks, run away from them, 'cause they don't know WTF they're talking about. Lisle makes an awesome removal tool, for about $100 or so, that works like gangbusters to get the plugs out where there's porcelain still in them. There's another tool that's $60-70 that works well for removing just the ground shield if the porcelain comes out.
If someone's getting $600 to do these plugs...I'm shortchanging myself. We do them for about half of that, parts, labor and all. I don't remove cabs, engines, cylinder heads, or any of that other hokey business.
You would have to be completely goofy to run Champion plugs at this point. I thought that was great when Federal Mogul stepped up to the plate with their one piece design, it's really to bad it hasn't panned out.
To date, the Motorcraft is still best choice for the 3 V.
BTW - This thread is packed with good info
Last edited by jbrew; 10-10-2009 at 10:07 AM.
#15
=jbrew;3919391]I'd bet all the cookies in the cookie jar that this post ^^^^^ one ups your standard documentation, hell, I'll even throw in the crumbs. Seriously!
Last edited by code58; 10-11-2009 at 02:40 AM.