My truck is getting up there in miles, 180,000 to be exact and I want to have more power as well so I don't know how worth it is to dump money into my engine. I was looking into putting a 2000 navigator 5.4l 4v dohc engine into my 1998 F150 4x4. What thoughts do you guys have on that? Has anyone done the same thing or have any better ideas? My thoughts is that it will take my horsepower from around say 260 where it is now to about 300. any thoughts?

 

do a search, all my notes are in the last 5 threads on this same exact subject

 

260? - Your way off lol.

 

If you are going to do the swap to the extent that the NAVI motor thinks it in a NAVI (i.e. the way it should be) then you've got a lot of work to do. If you are going to do it this way then...

Stop if you have a manual shift transfer case...just stop because the 4r100 does not have the provisions for mounting the manual shifter, and changing over to an electronic shift is just too much of a pain in the *** (unless you want to buy and install: a) bezel with switch, b) Transfer case harness, c) Generic Elec Module (and associated wires), d) xfer case shift solenoids(and their associated wires)).

else:

Get the entire engine with harnesses, accessories, trans, transfer, PCM, etc.

You'll need to relocate your torsion bar mount which means you'll need to buy longer torsion bars. You'll also need to buy the correct length front and rear driveshafts. The 4r100 trans is about 4" longer than your tranny thus the xfer case sits back 4" so you'll need a shorter rear DS and longer front DS.

Since you need to control that 4r100, you'll need the PCM from the NAVI...but that's good cause you want it to run your engine as well!!

Buy an EVTM manual for your 1998 F150 AND one for the 2000 Navigator and figure out what wires need to be relocated/added/removed at the 104 pin PCM connector. It's like a fun puzzle! Don't worry not all 104 pins are used...about 75 are and a lot of them match up perfectly.

Now go buy an instrument cluster from a 2000 F150 (with Tach of course)and be sure to get the two cluster connectors cause you'll need to replace your connectors with the new ones. Consult your manuals to see how everything needs to be wired. This needs to be done because your 2000 NAVI setup uses an SCP data bus to feed info to the cluster where as your old cluster has a dedicated wire for the MIL, tach, etc.

Now that you have all this newer stuff you get to deal with PATS so go buy 3 PATS keys, the PATS Transducer module, and all associated wiring (don't worry there is only 4 wires and the good news is your steering column is already machined to accept the screw that holds the module in place)

You still wanna do this??? I have thoroughly researched this swap as I was going to put the NAVI setup in a 97 with a 4.6L and Manual shift xfer case...I finally came to my senses when I realized the deal with the manual shift transfer case having to be swapped to Electronic shift.

The guy who wants to do this swap is the guy who has a 1999 or 2000 F150 with a 5.4L and a factory 4r100 trans and Electronic shift xfer case. He is as close to plug and play as you can get!!

 

jbrew the OP is looking at flywheel hp and he forgot about the torque factor and drive train loss

#1: it's way easier than that

#2: he can have his 2 valve ECM tuned and use his 4r70 transmission

#3: if he gets a complete navigator engine and wiring harness he has only to swap the oil pan to the F-150 then the rest is plug-n-play

#4: the ECM and torque converter must be for the 4r70 that he currently has...

#5: no reason to reset the PATS

#6: any questions email me, it's really a simple swap and rhislo added a lot of unessicary work

 

I know. I'm referring to FWHP as well. 260hp in a 98 f150 is incorrect.

If you want to build something - it may help to know where your at.

The 98 5.4L = 235hp FWHP - I happen to have one

BTW - Those engines aren't cheap. This one comes w/trans, but it's a 2WD. Without the trans it's probably worth about 3500. -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280314424430

If you have an Intech currently or can get one cheap - grab it!! - Add Charger. That thing would fly.

 

Like I said...

I assure you all of the info I posted is undeniably necessary. But yes, if you want to slap it in in front of the 98 tranny...you can make the swap pretty easy. My personal thought is that Ford put the 4r100 tranny behind the NAVI engine for a reason.

Basically it boils down to which tranny you are going to use. If you use the tranny that was intended to go behind the NAVI engine, then keep in mind the list of things I suggested...they will need to be done (although there is much debate on the PATS system... some say it can be turned off...I have found no method of accomplishing this yet). If you downgrade the NAVI drivetrain and use the old 98 trans, well... your job got easier, but...

I think this is the discussion you were looking for, and I hope this thread informs the 100's of other folks that will have the same question. I'm not knocking tarajerame's method, just putting it out there that there is more than one way to do the swap. Obviously, doing the swap and keeping the appropriate 4r100 tranny involves a lot more time and dedication, but it is doable. There are a group of folks who just want to get the NAVI engine in the truck, and then there are another group of folks who will only want to do the NAVI swap if they can do it with the tranny as well.

This thread now gives insight from both schools of thought

 

the 2v 5.4 makes 345ft/lbs of TQ and the 4v only makes 360ft/lbs of TQ. Not enough to get your panties all up in a bunch. And a tune to the 2v and its putting just as much force on that tranny as the 4v would

 

The Navi got it because they came loaded. The lightnings, it was a must. The 4r70w could handle the motor as far as torque/power. - The 150's had E4OD/4R100's since, way back when. In 99, the E4OD's changed the cover to 4R100. When I ordered mine, in 98, the tow package included the E4OD/4R100 and an extra cooler.

Allot of the 98's came with the E4OD/4R100's. My trans is labled a E4OD. If you pull the pan, the internals have 4R100 marked, - that's because, same trans.

Harness changes and programming differ from 98 to 2000. I'm pretty sure all hardware is the same between those years.

If the OP has an E4OD, that's just a bonus. If he's just swapping motors, he should be able to keep his comp and trans whatever it is.

 

jbrew, I forgot about the NPI specs, but that's why you're here to keep the rest of us in line

nicely said, I wasn't even loking at it from your point of view but you make a very valid point...

 

Yea, but it's not that hard getting 385/385 from a cobra based. Without the roots eaton. - And that's at the wheels.

Add the charger and your in the 500's. - Think it's 500/550. Even more w/ "R" heads + Cams. Emissions compliant/streetable. If I had that under the hood, I'd have a bunch of panties wanting a ride

It's just $$$$$

Hey, I have the crank! I keep in a pan of Castrol for later

 

Yes,,,the PATS can be turned off!
I think you need custom tuning in order to do it.
My tuner has my pats turned off in my truck.
We had to turn it off when we swaped in a 4R100 and a Lightning computer to operate it.

Phil

 

SO just for future reference (Cause I have a low mileage 2000 Navi DOHC engine w/ trans, transfer, harness, accessories, and PCM in my garage) The E4OD equipped 98's then would already have the longer torsion arms, and the torsion arm support located further back? If so, I'll add that truck configuration to my list of possible trucks to put my NAVI setup in!

 

Some folks that are willing to do the swap over to the NAVI engine aren't going to just want to stop there. Like jbrew said 500+hp is very obtainable. To which tranny would you then place your faith?

 

I'll never understand why so many people have a hard on for DOHC 5.4 liters.

There's a reason why that engine ain't used in Ford trucks and SUVs any more...Because it sucked.

ETA - Before the diehards tie me to a stake and burn me alive, let me expound a little further. IMO, for the effort involved in just getting the engine into the truck (it's a really big, really wide package), wiring it and getting it working properly, I think you can do just as good if not better power-wise with a well thought out 5.4 2V for the same or less money, with less effort. It'll be easier to work on in the truck, everything will line up and bolt up perfectly, and you can still make solid, reliable power with the 2V.