5.4 2000 F-150 with 165,000 miles.
Tried to turn the key and all it does is make a clicking noise. I think the noise is the solenoid on the starter but the starter will not turn. Tried to jump the battery but it appears to have plenty of charge.
Purchased another starter and will try to replace tomorrow. Is there any tricks or things I should be aware of prior to replacing the starter?
Thanks for any help.

 

My experiance with ford has been (after having replaced many a good starter) That the starter should always be the last thing replaced when doing diagnostics by parts replacement. Take a screw driver and short the big post to the small post on the relay/solenoid on the firewall just behind the battery. If it starts replace the relay. Check and recheck all connections. if in doubt just replace that relay/solenoid as its only 20 bucks or less and MUCH easier and its usually the part that fails.

 

Thanks, I will try that first. Would that be the case even if the solenoid on the starter is clicking? I was under the truck and had someone else turn the key and I could hear the solenoid click on the starter. I tried to tap the starter a couple of times while turning the key but did not have any success.

 

Yes. The starter could be not getting enough power either through a bad relay or a bad connection. Check the connection on the starter the big cable has a tendency to corrode.

 

Good info..
I will check all connections and try to bypass the solenoid.
Thanks again. I followup with the results once I get it home.

 

Seriously People, use the search function on this web-site. I bet this topic has been brought up at least a 1/2 dozen times in the last week.
Heck, Jbrew is setting a record with a starter thread. " I broke the starter again thread"
Anyways, here is a good thread about starter check and easy replacement instructions. Look for my post on the starter change. I just did mine 3 weeks ago.

open the link:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/en...have-dumb.html

Good luck with it.

TJKinCNY

 

I must have a learning disability because I tried the search function and it did not pull anything up. I am not sure if I am that computer illiterate or just slow.
Anyway, thanks for the heads up and link. I will make sure to try the screw driver trick and if it doesn't start then I will bring some sockets and 6 + 3" extensions.

 

Actually, it has to do with the words you type in the search function.
I typed in " STARTER CHANGE", and a buch of threads popped up. Almost every thread that was written with the word "starter" in it will pop up.
You do not have a learning disability, just need to know how the system works.
Just so you know, I am not a big fan of the screwdriver trick. Alot can be checked safely to pinpoint that the starter is no good without using a screwdriver.

Oh ye, the link you opened " I have a dumb question" was the Title someone used to start a new thread.

 

how old is the battery, just because you tried to jump it and got the same rusults does'nt mean the battery is good. if the jumper cables are to small [gauge size] and the battery has a couple of bad cells it still may not start. always start at the source and do a thourgh check back to the starter. batteries can be good in the morning and bad by the after noon.

 

starter sounds like its fine to me. Check your starter for voltage drop with a multimeter. stick your positive lead on the positive terminal on the batter and stick your negative lead on the power wire for your starter and see what you have. now crank the engine and see what your meter tells you. If there's to much voltage drop take your negative lead on your meter and put it on the battery side of the relay/solenoid on the inside of the fender and crank the engine again.

 

fixed it for yuh

 

This is an old post--- Went through a similar thing about a month ago, learn from my mistake and save yourself some money. Pop the hood and find your starter relay switch--it'll be on the firewall on the passenger side next to your main battery fuse--round and about the size of a big walnut. It has three posts--one's a plug-on connector (this is to your ignition switch) the other two big studs will be (1) two hot wires coming from your main battery fuse to the right of that switch (as you're facing it) and (2) one wire leading out to your starter (this should be on the left side of the relay). Get a good piece of wire you trust--unplug that little ignition wire from the relay and take your trusty piece of wire and make connection from the hot post of your battery (I'm assuming you have a fully charged battery)--the positive terminal and that little stud you unplugged your ignition wire from. If you hear your starter kick in, your problem lies BEHIND that relay---ignition switch or transmission sensor probably. If your starter did not kick in, fall to your knees, clasp hands together, and praise God, Allah, Buddha, or whomever suits your fancy because you just avoided a ****load of trouble. Assuming that didn't work (and I'm betting it didn't) take a good screwdriver and lay it across those two big studs on the relay switch--be prepared--you're going to see some sparks fly. If you now hear your starter kick in (and I bet you will), your problem is that relay switch--about 13-14 dollars at NAPA. If that's the problem, remember to bolt that new switch back to the firewall before you try it--the switch must be grounded and the firewall is the ground (learned this the hard way--I was about to set my '98 F150 on fire when someone in this forum [believe it was SHO89--if I had two heroes, he'd be both of them] straightened me out). If your starter did not kick in, follow the wire on the left side of that relay switch to your starter. Take your trusty piece of wire and make a connection from the positive terminal of your battery to the post where that left-side relay wire connects to your starter/solenoid--if your starter now kicks in the problem is in the wiring from the relay switch to the starter. If it does not kick in, the problem is your starter/solenoid (might as well replace both if this is the problem, they come as one part anyway). Assuming you are working with a fully charged battery (and if in doubt--steal your buddy's--what are friends for?) and there's something you're not telling me (like, right before this problem my engine made a high-pitched whine and then went BOOM), this is a foolproof method of isolating the problem. If none of the above works, put a socket and a big ratchet on the front bolt of your crankshaft and give her a good tug--it'll be tough because of the compression and the serpentine belt tension, but it should turn over. Check your automatic fuel cut-off switch (lay your head in the passenger side floorboard next to the kick panel and look up--you'll see it--I think it's red) and see if it's been tripped and needs to be reset. Anyway, hope this helps---The Vinman.

 

Yea , but that thread doesn't have a whole lot to do with the starter - In fact, it's a mess.

But yea, most the the time it's the connection down under that goes bad - Right at the posts. I've seen that ground break right off the frame rail as well + that smaller hot wire post can break off starter very easily. - The one they pig -tail now and have that TSB for.

I personally haven't had a relay go bad in the 98 yet - So, that "clicking sound" would have me looking at the starter connections first. Think that's been mentioned a few times above.

Like that Vineman post - It's Great!

 

You posted that you heard the starter click? Like suggested check the wires at the starter. 9.99 times out of 10 it is caused by corroded wires on our trucks.

 

DITTO DITTO DITTO, This is exactly the issue I had last spring. Wish I took pic's of the mess that was under my truck. I have never seen a wiring harness to the starter be so messed up and I have been driving for 30 years this month.
Hmm, WOW, I am getting old. 30 yrs driving, wow.

PS: Vineman, your post was excellent. I gotta try and steal my buddy's battery....