Thanks for being kind to the old fart guys. Guess this is just one of those "aw sh*ts" for me. :o

So, blown head gaskets don't cause all kinds of other visible symptoms like you see in the Indy 500?

- Jack

 

Seriously considering a 4.6 Rhino Long Block. Total cost is $2236 (no upfront core cost - have to send core to avoid cost though). Sound like a good deal?

 

Hell No ! Go to car-part .com and find a used engine. They will find you one close to home.

If you have to go reman, go with Jasper.

 

This is the Jasper price for the long block reman:

The Price Is: $3106.00
Core Deposit For This Unit Is: $700.00
Skid Deposit For This Unit Is: $50.00
Sold On An Exchange Basis w/Jasper Receiving Old Unit As A Core.

I can get one direct from Ford for that price.... (actually lower)

Here's the Rhino I can get for $2236: http://www.rhinoengines.com/ford46wi...ginestruck.htm

Why don't you like the Rhino (just curious not questioning your knowledge)?

 

This is just the way I see it. I really don't trust any rebuilder except for Ford. It's their motor and IMO, the modular is a finicky motor. Where others think they can improve doesn't need to be and can shorten the life of.

If I had to pay for it, I would purchase a used unit hands down and take my chances. They can take quite a bit of abuse and your chances of getting one in good condition is pretty good.

If I had a choice and wasn't paying for it, - it would be a Ford Reman. By Ford.

I have 220,000 miles on a Ford Reman. Ford payed for it, one of their people under their employment blew up my first motor @ 30k.

Jasper is good, I have seen all their video's, but I have heard of few bad ones. They were warrantee'ed. Still , it was a hassle that could of been avoided.

It's up to you, but I have seen and read allot about it over the years.

Quintin is a Ford Tech who frequents this forum. He stands behind Jasper, but if I remember right, he has had some experience with bad Jasper remans as well.

I haven't heard of Rhino remans. The Rhino I know of deals in after market 4WD accessories or the Rhino virus, cause of the common cold But yea, haven't heard of Rhino Remans although they look to be a rather large re-manufacturer.

 

Old Fart Guys - That's funny Jack.

Not like indy - but yes they do. - Rear corner of passenger side head and also the gasket mating surfaces blow out and leak - upper block cavity. Visible signs of leakage should be evident in one of those two places.

I'm board , - waiting for parts... Trying to keep busy tho, can't you tell -



Always wondered if I could do that


You never know what your find looking around when your board. Thought my transfer case was leaking, had sort of red substance or stain around it , coming from the top somewhere. ? Just about to take it apart and I noticed a similar red stain on the carpet inside the the cab.. Turns out one of the kids must have spilled their koolaid or something. Geezzz!!! I'm just going to go in the house and leave it alone for now.

 

Now that's just darn funny!

Hey I followed up on your advice and you were right about Rhino. I went to the BBB and searched Rhino engines and they're listed as unsatisfactory. Search Jasper and they have a satisfactory BBB rating.

 

Yea the worst case I heard about Jasper is that they sent a shop a bad one, so they sent another. That was bad too - Third time around, they got a good one.

Good luck Foe, - I would still go used if it were me. Just sayin..

Then again, Jasper makes good on their warrantee - No questions asked.

 

My 1997 does the exact same thing. Runs cool and have followed all the same things with no effects. Tstats been changed.

 

What height cherry picker do I need to successfully pull the engine out of my 1997 (no lift) 4x4 (if I use a load leveler)?

 

Normal, they are adjustable - You can always pull the front wheels/set her down on some lumber and remove the hood.

 

OK

Engine removal underway. Intake is off - only thing left is to remove the torque converter bolts, compressor, starter, bellhousing and engine mount bolts.

Went pretty smooth with the exception of a broken bolt when removing the EGR valve. Luckily it snapped with 3/8" of an inch sticking out of the manifold. I'll work on that after I get the engine out.

Labeled all connections and organized parts/bolts to avoid guess work later on.

I have one problem I need to figure out how to get around and that is the tranny support. Right now the truck is on jacks.

When I remove the bolts (while supporting the tranny), can I just readjust the tranny height later or will the thing twist on me? I need to roll the truck out of the garage to get sufficient height to remove the engine (garage door track is in the way and I don't have enough room to operate the hoist. I only have about a foot of clearance between the bumper and the garage door.

Doing the work outside is out of the question right now because temps are in the single digits with wind chills below zero....

Other than that, I'm surprised I got this far in one day ;-) Not bad for a noob

 

goof ball. I would do that but i dont think i could fit another tire under the truck without lifting it up some

 

That would have came in handy when that chick in a Saturn plowed into the back of me last year.. - Found another chunk of Saturn shrapnel on top of my fuel tank a few weeks ago. I dropped it to run new hard lines for the brakes.

 

OK Crazy question - is it possible to pull the engine from the side of the vehicle? I ask this because I have side room to fit the hoist in the garage which would negate the need to move the vehicle outside...crazy I know, but I gotta ask....