I've got a '02 5.4L 2V and I would like to get another one, the same set up-a 2V from either a '02 or '03-from a junkyard, or someplace, and build it (rebuild bottom end, port and polish heads, ?new cams?, supercharger , tune, etc.). My main question is, what parts from my current engine would I have to transfer to the built engine in order to not jeopardize passing my New York state inspection, plugs in-makes sure VIN matches engine-blah blah blah-etc.? I'm hoping at least the shortblock and heads?

My other question is what else would need to be done besides what I listed above? I just plan on a basic bolt-on SC, max 8lbs boost I think? I know I would need to rebuild the tranny (b/c it's a 4r70w and there are 108,000 miles on truck). And I know I'd need a bigger MAF, 90mm I think, and bigger TB?. Would I need new/more aggressive cams w/ the SC? What about the transfer case (4x4), would that have to be toughened up? Anything else that I'm forgetting or missing?

The bottom line is that I would like to build a fresh (not extreme) 5.4 for my truck, bolt on a SC, and put into my truck retaining the needed parts off the current engine to still pass my NYS inspection w/o any issues.

Any help would be apreciated. Thanks.

 

ummm

what supercharger are you wanting to get? what do you mean by hoping to swap the longblock and still ahve the numbers match? what kind of testing do they do in NY? if they plug a device into the diagnostic port they cannot tell if the engien has been swapped but they can tell if it doesn't comply with smog.

if you go for a rebuild and an eaton swap you may as well just grab a used complete lightning engine.


If you want to rebuild (recomended) you can re-use everything except for your crank, pistons and rods. You do not have to run a more aggressive cam with a supercharger but the comp cams 102500 and crower stage 2 low lift are popular choices seconded by custom ground cams.

you need a larger fuel pump, 255lph in tank, 39#/42# injectors, 90mm MAF and a custom tune to safely run the supercharger. Whatever you do not run a supercharger without an innercooler; there are several kits out there offering base kits without an innercooler and you can add one fairly cheap.

 

Sorry for the confusion, I posted before I did enough research. I found out that as long as I swap my current ECM onto the rebuilt and S/C-ed engine I won't run into any problems with my NYS inspection, as long as I get a tune so it doesn't throw any codes or the CEL.

What S/C . . . I'm leaning towards the Paxton NOVI 2000 (8-10lbs).

Okay so now that I think I've got things in order, here's the tenative plan:

Pick up another 5.4 from an '02 or '03 F150

Tear it down completely, check block for problems, and replace pistons, rods and crank with forged parts

Port and polish heads, still on the fence regarding changing cams-probably will depend on how many miles are on engine and what kind of shape the cams and valvetrain are in

Bolt on S/C, intercooler, 90mm MAF, bigger injectors, LTs, y-pipe, hi-flow cats, and the bigger fuel pump

Rebuild transmission

Replace u-joints if needed

Order tune

Swap ECM from current engine to S/C-ed engine

Tune ECM on S/C-ed engine

Final questions:

Am I missing anything obvious?

Where could I find the forged pistons, rods, and crank? (besides through Ford)

Where can I find a complete intercooler kit? (Summit's website only shows complete kits for a Mustang 4.6)

39# or 42# injectors?

Where can I get the ECM tune that I would need?

Thanks.

 

the paxton is a good kit; but I'd add an innercooler.

Troyer, VMP and PHP can send you an email tune that will run your rebuilt engine enough to get some data logs.

troyer has more experience and I would lean that way for the tune.

the rebuild while you're still driving sounds like a good plan.

check NLOC, ebay, NHTOC, the classifieds here and on the lightning rodder forum for the used parts

 

Some more questions:

Okay, so watch ebay and these forums for the parts but what do NLOC and NHTOC stand for?

Which injectors should I go with?

If I can't find the intercooler kit, pistons, rods, or crank used, are they any companies that have them new?

Looked around the Troyer website, it looks like I can contact them, tell them all my modifications and then purchase a single program chip that will do the trick? Or should I buy a handheld programmer in order to get the data logs that you mentioned?

Thanks.

 

Found the 255lph fuel pumps on ebay. All the listings say that Lightnings require 2 pumps. Since I'll be supercharging mine does that mean I'll need to buy two pumps as well? Thanks.

 

Anyone?

 

I am running a single 255 pump with my set up.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

PS. ATI/Procharger makes an intercooler for our trucks.

 

Thank you. I've had quite a time trying to nail down some of these details. Will the ATI intercooler kit work with the Paxton I would like to get, or would I need to buy a Procharger S/C? Thanks.

 

I cannot be sure if it would fit unless I knew both mine and the Paxton measurements. Looking at a picture on the Paxton site it shows the compressor being on the firewall side of the bracket like mine. You may have to lengthen some of the pipes but it could be made to fit. I consider that something fits if I can get it to within ½ inch of where I want it to be. I am considering going to a Water to air intercooler. There is a partial kit here; http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...5603392f9b999a Charge tubing will need to be fabricated but that is relatively simple. Water hoses are cheap when purchased by the foot.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Thanks for the info. I was looking on the Procharger/ATI site and was pretty impressed with the Procharger/Intercooler kit for my truck. For the simplicity of getting a complete S/C kit and complete Intercooler kit all in one package, I might go with the Procharger setup. If you don't mind me asking how much does the whole shooting match (S/C and intercooler kits) cost from Procharger? I couldn't find prices on the website. Thanks.

 

To clear up a few things for you. The ECM stays in the truck so you will not have to swap that over. Since you are doing a 5.4 to 5.4 swap essentially all you will have to do is unplug the old and plug in the new.

I would go with a roots type or twin screw blower over the centrif. for a truck. A centrif is dependant on RPM's so unless you build a motor/tranny combo that can take higher RPM's a root/twin screw will give you more power over a greater range and be more fun on the street or in the mud.

As for the tune I would find someone in your area who can put your truck on the dyno and tune it on the dyno. Mail order tunes might be great for n/a motors but when you add forced induction to the mix you add a whole different set of problems. I would not want "Well from what you are telling me over the phone, or writting down on a piece of paper, this tune should be good for you" unless I have something in writting stating that they will pay for all repair cost when their tune puts a hole in one of my pistons.

Cams and valvetrain, you might as well do it now. Compare the cost of buying new cams and having them installed with the motor out to the cost of adding them once the motor is in the car.

For your exhaust, not sure on NY regs. but if at all possible I would ditch the Y and go with true dual exhaust with a crossover pipe.

Fuel will be an issue only a dyno or data logging will be able to answer. SOme can get by with one 255 others swear you need 2. If you are on the dyno and your fuel is getting to its upper limits then I would add another, if it is doing ok and has some headroom then 1 will do the job.

 

about $4500 brand new, you can find used kits for around 2 grand.

there's a vortech in the classifieds for a great price, that with a used innercooler (there's a couple on ebay for a couple hundred) and a couple custom bent boost tubes and you'll be in business

Mike troyer can email tune just about any F-150, then you can data log and he'll make the required adjustments if nessicary.

as far as fuel pumps lightnings have 2 pumps formt eh factory hence why the require 2 pumps (otherwise it will mess up the system using two mismatched pumps)

I happen to own (see sig) a procharged truck and a eaton charged truck and I prefer the procharged truck

39# ('03-'04 cobra injectors like I am running) or the 42# (stock lightning/harley truck) are the recomended injectors up to 450-500hp

pistons, rods, crank, many companies offer forged internals for lightnings, if you run a centrufigal supercharger you'll need some 2 valve mustang pistons (forged for stock compression) with forged lightning rods and crank.

definantly swap cams and valve springs while the engine is apart, it will save you in long run. if you are running a supercharger get a supercharger specific or custom ground cams.

 

p.s. a good racing bypass valve really even ups the low end for a centrufigal charged truck

I (and several others) am running a turbo XS racing bypass valve and now I have traction isses from a standstill

 

Thanks for all the input and information guys.