new: coil,cap.rotor,plugs.... wires are fine. KOEO fuel pressure @ 50 lbs ,doesn't bleed down for over an hr.inertia switch is not activated.testlite to pwr side of coil =fine. testlite to tach side odd glow not repetitive. new[used] efi module... still the same. the truck has run fine for the last 3 years. i moved it so the dumpster guy didn't bash it at 10 am, went to go home 430 pm... no start. tried to ground coil wire... no spark, hence the replacement of parts.i'm pretty handy around motors and such and have the tools to work on them but the efi system baffles me. i have a haynes manual and the checks/codes are a bit beyond my ken. the truck was parked on about a 30 deg slope ,nose up w/ 1/4 tank of gas,that was my 1st fix, add 2.5 gal. 2nd was parts replacement,3rd was buy the gauge and check the pressure.it won't pop w/ starting fluid. any clues here? i'm in sw mass so any ford guys around get dinner and drinks lol

 

EFI module? Are you referring to the ignition module? That is the most likely problem.

You need to try to read out the codes. You can do it with a paperclip.

 

a paperclip, do i insert it in my... no just kidding i'm really not sure how to get the codes up

 

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-For.../dp/B000EW0KHW

You may be able to find something like this at a local parts store, it does make it easier. I *think* there may be some instructions here somewhere on how to use a paperclip to read out a EEC-IV system, it involves bridging 2 terminals in the diagnostic socket and turning the key on, watching the CEL, counting flashes.

 

thanks glc, looks like it might save some bux having to sled it up to the ford dealer

 

ok guys just cuz there's a tool i could buy doesn't mean i'm driving it to work tomorrow am... any other suggestions?

 

TFI Module......you can pull it off the distributor and have it tested at a parts house just to be sure. They can be fairly tricky to get off depending on what they are fastened with. Some use bolts, and require a very deep thin wall socket to get to. If you're not getting spark, that's your most likely culprit. Next likely would be the computer itself. I've had 3 computer failures on EEC-IV Fords......so it does happen.

You may not even get anything from checking the codes. EEC-IV isn't very "smart".......it doesn't have nearly the diagnostic capability of EEEC-V / OBD-II

 

And that's not a typo, it's TFI module, not EFI. There isn't exactly an EFI module....

But I did typo EEC-V.....I added an extra "E" oops

 

the TFI is on the driver side inner fenderwell. i'm going to the junkyard to get one off a truck that runs. mine is black. i'll report on progress this afternoon

 

UPDATE: new ICM module,primary/secondary resistance ok. voltage to ICM check..pins 1,2,3 within 90 % batt. voltage. pin 4 not so much. book says to service ICM to ign sw circuits... does that mean a resistance test for a broken wire or new wire harness or switch?

 

error codes 114,116,636 out of range of koeo test, remember i can't bring it up to operating temp as it won't start. continuous test code = 111 says system pass

 

The TFI module is on the distributor.......not too sure what you found on the finder-well?

 

Crunchiefs truck is a 1994, starting in 1992, they moved the module from the side of the distributor to the fenderwell

 

I suspect the culprit here is the PIP(profile ignition pickup) inside the distributor. You have to remove and disassemble the distributor to replace the PIP. Your Ford dealer should be able to test the distributor and see if it is firing to make sure the PIP is the bad part before disassembling the distributor. Of course you will have to pull the distributor from the engine first. Pulling the distributor is easy, getting it reinstalled in time is the tricky part. Not hard if you know what you're doing, taking the proper steps before pulling the distributor. I have no idea what your expertise is in this area. I can explain it if you wish, just ask.

 

i know the procedure for removal/install/disassembly and am a competent mechanic but i'm just going to swap it w/ another from a truck that i know runs. my question from above about the voltage to pin #4 still stands though. also, here's a symptom i did not mention : occasionally when turning the key to start, there would be a dead clunk as if the battery were discharged, second try it would fire.