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  #1  
Old 08-31-2008, 01:03 PM
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Cam Sensor Or O2 Sensor

I have a 2006 F150 5.4 liter. Here recently my truck has been running a little ruff. Took it to Auto Zone and I got A P0340 Code and P0345. I have been told by different people that it is my Cam Sensor and then have been told that it is my O2 sensor. Truck runs fine going down the road, but when I come to a stop or low rpm it starts to shake and sometimes the motor dies. Any help would be appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Drawneb View Post
I have a 2006 F150 5.4 liter. Here recently my truck has been running a little ruff. Took it to Auto Zone and I got A P0340 Code and P0345. I have been told by different people that it is my Cam Sensor and then have been told that it is my O2 sensor. Truck runs fine going down the road, but when I come to a stop or low rpm it starts to shake and sometimes the motor dies. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm having the same problem my brother! My truck threw a P0345 code, which is a camshaft position sensor. I took it to 2 different Ford stealership and both are saying that I'm looking at a $2000 to $2400 fix........bull crap. Check out my thread I started a few weeks ago about this problem. I think its on page 5 or 6. This will give you more insight about this problem. My truck is doing like yours, except mine wants to shake and die after startup after its been running awhile. The crazy thing about it, is it only does this crap when the truck is hot, mainly during the warm summer months. It will not do this during colder months. By the way, the thread i started is called "$2400 bill" Good luck to you finding this problem, and keep me posted. I'm still trying to get this problem fixed without braking my bank account.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2008, 11:12 AM
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That is exactly what mine does. As soon as my truck has been running a while it does that. I was stuck in a parking lot for 10 min. because everytime I started it up it would shake and then as soon as I put it in drive it would die. Thanks so much for your help in this matter. I will keep you posted on what I find out.
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2008, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Drawneb View Post
That is exactly what mine does. As soon as my truck has been running a while it does that. I was stuck in a parking lot for 10 min. because everytime I started it up it would shake and then as soon as I put it in drive it would die. Thanks so much for your help in this matter. I will keep you posted on what I find out.
It could also be your cam phasers. When I first got my truck, it wouldn't even make it out of the car lot for a test drive. It died on me every time I had to come to a stop. Wouldn't do it all the time, but most of the time. I told the dealership that I would not buy it until it was fixed. So the used car dealership sent it to one of our local Ford dealers. They replaced the cam phasers, and the camshaft sensor, and gaskets, etc. That cured the problem, total bill was $522.72 The truck ran fine after that, but now it only does that when its been running for awhile...after start up. Before they replaced cam phasers it would die at idle, but would run fine at higher rpms. That leads me to believe that its your cam phasers, or possibly just your cam shaft position sensor. The problem I'm having, is it dies every once in awhile after start up when its been running for awhile. It will not die at idle or slower rpms.

I would take it to a couple of dealerships and see what they have to say. If they say your timing chains, tensioners, guides, and all that other junk are bad, just walk out. Thats what they are telling me resulting in over $2000 job. Sinse, your truck is doing exactly what mine did when i first bought it, i'm betting its your sensor or cam phasers. Good luck, and keep us posted.
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2008, 11:49 AM
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Ok. So I took it into my own hands ( maybe my first mistake ). I bought a Cam Pos. Sensor and replaced it on bank 2 since that's what Auto Zones ticket said. Ran great till it warmed up of course. Now I don't have the shaking that I had before, instead it just dies. It hits at about 200 to 300 RPM and just dies now. Should I change both of the sensors? I am going to take it to a mechanic today and see what he says. He is pretty honest and does not jerk us around. I was hoping to avoid it all together. Just so you know the dealership only charged me $48 drive out for one sensor. Called one dealership and he told me $262 for the sensor, so I called another one and he said it was only $45. I am assuming this other dealership was trying to rip me off or the guy just did not know what the hell he was talking about. Anyway. Once I get it back from the mechanic I will keep you posted on what he say's. I read your thread and my God.....I can't believe the crap you have gone through. I am hoping I have better luck then what you have encountered. Anyway. Thanks for your help so far and I will keep you informed!
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2008, 06:54 PM
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How hard was the install of the sensor? I've been thinking of replacing both, if they are not the problem, then atleast they have been elimnated from the problem. I was thinking the sensors were atleast couple hundred dollars themselves?? I could be wrong though. The P0345 code says camshaft position sensor bank 2 , you would think thats all that would be wrong with it? I've been researching my **** off, trying to figure this out. My truck has not died on me for over 4 days now, but this afternoon it did it again
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2008, 11:19 AM
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Sensor was only $ 48 and some change at the dealership. As for changing them...not hard at all. Mine was located right in front of the engine right under the valve cover. Took me all of 2 minuites on each side. After replacing one of them it seemed to run fine even after heating up. Of course this did not fix the problem. I took it to the mechanic that I mentioned before and it was running real ruff. The truck died on me 6 times on my over there. It is now hitting around 2 to 3 hundered RPM's. That's right 2 to 3 hundered RPM's, then just dies. When I pulled up he looked at me and had this face like WTH! He popped the hood and the motor was making a weird noise and was shaking. He told me that it sounded like something along the lines of a timing problem now and that the valves may be out of whack. He flat out told me that he would not touch it. He said it was WAY too much of a headache. Told me to take it to the dealer and see what they would do. So I took it there and they said they would run a diagnostics test on it and if Ford would pay for it it would not cost me anything and if they will not pick up the bill that it would cost me $90. So I figure that if anything I will only be out $90 to see exactly what is wrong with the truck. I have searched on the internet to see if anybody else has had major problems witht he 5.4 litre and it seems that it is not so good of an engine. Seems that there are numerous problems with it. So hopefully Ford will call me today and will tell me what the deal is. I will keep you informed with what is going on. I am hoping what I find out will help you.
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  #8  
Old 09-04-2008, 11:43 AM
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Yea, thats what both dealerships told me right off the bat........timing chain and everything. They said it was a PITA to do, and thats why it would cost me a arm and a leg to get it fixed. As far as the 5.4 engine........besides lacking power, its got a long way to go to as far as matching what other truck makers are offering. Don't get me wrong, I love my Ford's. I've owned 3 of them over the last few years, and I'll probably continue to buy Ford, but the overall quality of these newer models are **** poor and very dissapointing. Some people are having no problems at all out of these trucks, but most are. I know all trucks or vehicles for that matter, will have their problems, but I know plenty, and I mean plenty that has these NBS trucks and every one of them says the same thing as me. They are all disapointed.

I know I'll probably get ripped for writing this, but I stand my ground. Like I said, I've always been a Ford man and hopefully I will continue to be, but Ford better get their *** together on these '09's and beyond or they will be losing some long-time costumers. Reason I say that..........well the town I live in is a Ford lovers town, but many are souring very quickly.
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2008, 10:35 AM
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I agree 100% With your last statement. I finally talked to the dealership ( after I called them ). They had my truck for 3 days and could not call me to let me know that I need a whole new engine. Said the one that I have is shot. I just don't understand that because when I go down the freeway the truck runs strong and like it's brand new. So to say the least, I am a little upset with the whole situation. From what I have read a new motor for that truck is going to run me around 8 to 9k. So today I get to go argue with the dealership. I have also read that this 5.4 motor is a complete lemon! So now I am stuck. I had a 06 4.6 liter and it lacks power big time and now I am finding out that the 5.4 liter is a lemon. I to have been a Ford person my whole life. I have never owned a Dirty Bowtie ( Chevy ) but if this is how Ford is going to make their product then I will have to go elsewhere. Never thought those words would come out of my mouth, but what else can I do. Anyway. I will repost when I get done with the dealership and see what is going on and what can be done.
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2008, 08:06 PM
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Wow man, when it rains it pours! You needing a new engine sounds like a bunch of crap to me. One thing I noticed when taking mine in to the stealership, is both places acted like they didn't want to do the work. Its so easy to say that you need a new engine, when really its probably something else. Who knows. I've read a many of threads about people with these NBS trucks needing new motors. Some had less than 500 miles. Are you still under warranty?? For your sake, I hope so. As for me, I'm still weighing my option. Like your truck, my runs fine going down the interstate, I also pull a boat bout every weekend too. The stealership saying that I need new timing chains, tensioners, belts, you name it, is a bunch of crap!! If it was really that, then I would be having way more trouble than I am now. As a matter of fact, I put over 300 miles on it, this past weekend, and it never acted up once

Like you, i'm trying not to sour on the best lookin trucks on the road. Been a Ford man all my life. I will give Ford one more chance, probably when the 2011 or 2012 models come or when ever Ford makes a drastic change. My 2001 5.4 was a Ford owners dream, plenty of power, and the only thing that went wrong with it in 4 years was the starter went bad!! Very impressed with the older style models. Wish I could say the same about these models.

Once again sorry bout the mess your in, but I wouldn't give in to what the stealership is tellin ya. If it is under warranty then go for it, if it's not let Ford have it!! Keep me posted.
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2008, 02:08 AM
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Same Problem!

I have a 04 F150 with the 5.4L and I'm getting both P0340 and P2106 codes. Same problem, very rough idle the stalls out at a stop. Before I started getting these codes my motor sounded like a diesel due to a ticking. Has anyone figured this out? I've replaced the throttle body and mass airflow sensor to no avail.

04 Ford F150 5.4L AFE stage 2 intake BBK 80mm throttle body JET mass airflow sensor magnaflow exhaust edge evolution programmer Procomp stage II 6" lift procomp 7105 17x9 wheels 35x12.50r17 procomp extreme all terrain tires.
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2008, 02:41 PM
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I had the tick, but not the stalling issue. It turns out I needed a new cylinder head. My dealership replaced the cyl head, installed new plugs, and even got me a rental car, all covered under Ford ESP.
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2009, 10:08 PM
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Check alternator frequency

I have codes 340 and 344 showing took my truck to three different dealerships all say it is the alternator frequency is wrong. Problem is caused by an open phase connection or malfunctioning diode in generator. This information is from WWW.ALLDATACOLLISION.com TSB 06-19-12. Dealership wants $550.00 to replace Advance has alt. for $200.00. I haven't replaced yet but have spoke with a friend with same problem he replaced alt. and codes and check engine lite went away.
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2009, 10:53 PM
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P0340 is Cam sensor bank 1, and P0345 is Cam sensor bank 2.

Click the image to open in full size.

Both cam sensors do directly to the PCM. What you need to do is check ohms across the sensors themselves with a Digital Voltmeter (DVOM). It should be between 300-450ohms. (+ side CMP and - side SIGRTN)

If not replace the sensors.

Now measure the resistance between CMP (+ Side) to Negative battery terminal (- side) and SIGRTN (+ Side) to Negative battery termainal (- side). If resistance is greater then 10k ohms you have a short, which means you have to trace the wiring from the PCM to the sensors.

If you have good sensors, and no shorts found, then the problem is internal PCM failure.

If none of that made sense which I may not have explained it so well, then you should probably take it to an independent shop that you can trust rather then dealership. Basically what you are trying to do is see if the Sensors are good, and if they are good is the signal making it to the PCM? If the signal is making it to the PCM then there is a PCM fault. The PCM takes the signal directly so not a whole lot can go wrong between the two.

Last edited by IR0NS1N; 01-02-2009 at 10:55 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2009, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N View Post
P0340 is Cam sensor bank 1, and P0345 is Cam sensor bank 2.

Click the image to open in full size.

Both cam sensors do directly to the PCM. What you need to do is check ohms across the sensors themselves with a Digital Voltmeter (DVOM). It should be between 300-450ohms. (+ side CMP and - side SIGRTN)

If not replace the sensors.

Now measure the resistance between CMP (+ Side) to Negative battery terminal (- side) and SIGRTN (+ Side) to Negative battery termainal (- side). If resistance is greater then 10k ohms you have a short, which means you have to trace the wiring from the PCM to the sensors.



If you have good sensors, and no shorts found, then the problem is internal PCM failure.

If none of that made sense which I may not have explained it so well, then you should probably take it to an independent shop that you can trust rather then dealership. Basically what you are trying to do is see if the Sensors are good, and if they are good is the signal making it to the PCM? If the signal is making it to the PCM then there is a PCM fault. The PCM takes the signal directly so not a whole lot can go wrong between the two.

Explained very well, nice write up !
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:08 PM


 
 
 
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