Yea , I heard of them breaking there. Mine never snapped on the accumulator, but it would miss/ run like at one time. It was the Mag field disrupting the ignition system.. I could pull the harness away from the accumulator and it would straighten right up. It's a b^tch re-rouoting that one - I needed to zip tie it to hold her back - What a difference that made!!!

That was about 5 years ago or so.

Glad you found the problem

 

Can someone tell me what this CD circut is (and how to test it) and where the accumulator is? Maybe that's my culprit also.

 

2001 4x4 F-150 5.4L Triton. I have a P0352 error that refers to a bad COP on the #2 cyl. I have replaced the COP and plug, cleared the error but i still have the miss and the error returns. I have performed a test that was in the Haynes manual that says unplug all of the COP connectors and using a LED test light connect it to the + side and then check the harness connector negative side and have an assistance crank the engine.

When i do this on all other cyl. my test lamp flashes. When i do this on the #2 cyl the light stays lit does not flash. So there is power there however its not intermittent like it should be and the book refers to only it not flashing says nothing about it staying lit.

Any ideas what this indicates, I am not mechanic but can get my way around if you can help with good descriptions?

Thanks in advance for your help.


Dan

 

What is the Table for a 2004 F150 XLT 4.6 ?

 

That's a new one, - I'm stumped.

 

jbrew, I have a 2004 Ford F150 XLT 4.6 and I'm having kinda the same issue here. I've got what I've seen you call a low grade miss. It's at the the speeds of 45mph to 60mph, maybe a little higher speeds at times. The truck now has 61000 miles on it. I changed the plugs at 60000 miles. ( Autolites 104's ) . I've removed and inspected each of the COP's and plug's. I can not see any obvious damage, I guess it must be a COP going bad and I can't determine which one. So I ordered a set from the place you have suggested in other post. Could this problem be something other than the COP's ? What is the CD circuit that tlmanic mentioned in his post ?

 

It's a possibility that it's something else , but very doubtful. You have a coil problem. Your plugs aren't helping since 103's/104's are the wrong heat range for the two valve. Some can run them successfully, -some can't. I couldn't, they heated up in my engine and turned colors. I lost two plugs within 40 miles and had to re-install my old Motorcraft plugs to use the truck , temporarily.

I recommend that you change the plugs back to OEM before installing the new coils. Do it all in one shot and be done with it.

 

jbrew thanks for the info, I will be switching back to the motorcraft plugs. That is true what you say about the autolites turning colors. Since I'll be changing all the COP's (DG 508 ) because I can't tell which one is the problem. I will take care of it all at once ! Thanks for your post about where to buy a complete set of COP's. A hell of a deal compared to the dealer price. Would've like to have known which COP was bad, but I guess I'll never know. Thanks again !

 

There's a few ways , when the Check engine light flashes, then shuts off. That's a misfire code pending/then DTC set. So even without a CEL illuminated, you still have a DTC in the KAM (KeepAliveMemory). A scanner will pinpoint the cylinder @ fault. Sometimes you have to push the motor when it's missing, that way the misfire count rises enough for the monitor to blink the CEL at yuh. That can work, if the count is increased enough.

Other than that, the dealership can mode 6 it for cylinder misfire history.

If you can't push a DTC yourself, you might as well just swap all the coils out.

 

jbrew, was curious to see if I could have had a bad spark plug. So before the COP's got here, I decide to go ahead and change the autolites and put the Proper Motorcraft Spark plugs back in. What a surprise ! That fixed it ! [B]Never again will I use autolite spark plugs[B]. Thanks for all of your help, again ! The COP's I'll keep for a just in case. For the price you can't beat em !

 

Glad you got it fixed, yea I didn't want to tell you to try that first, since it's twice the work if that wasn't the case lol. I'm glad you did tho, it supports what I've been trying to tell everyone, - thanks.

 

Bump!! I know its old but the knowledge of Jbrew NEVER expires! I am having this problem too. So to start, the truck sat all winter. Ran as normal when i parked it. Not seeing any signs of mice or chewed wires. I am also getting spark from every coil (tested while running, very strong current) But the truck just runs like complete crap! It barely wants to move! Its back firing at the intake, and bad. You push the petal from 10%-100% and just bogs. If you hold at a rev, for example, 1500rpms (kind of sputtery, not too bad) 3k rpm (sounds like normal), but if you hit it from 0-50%, which tap or slow, it bogs either way.. New oem coil packs straight from the dealer, ford racing wires, irridium plugs and the other 1,000 things i have replaced. It does not make any sense to me at all. So i read this post and tried rerouting the coil pack wires (which have been in the same positon for many years) didnt do anything at all. The motor itself has about 100k miles, assuming the injectors do to. The scenario was, i parked it with an empty tank, no treatment, like the idiot i am. So i filled it up, added cleaner. Only question i can think of to ask is, do you think im sucking up water and dirt from the bottom of the tank? that could have clogged an injector, many fuel filter? Why is it throwing this code? When it does not seem like it fits the description. Thanks.

 

I went thru all of this myself and finally I ended up taking it to the dealer and it was my PCM. $800 later it worked fine. There are cheaper ways to have it done but I was sick of messing with it. Might want to have someone do a read of the PCM.

Dan

 

 

That code means there's a fault on the PRIMARY side of the coils (#3 & 4). Verify you have switched power on the high side of the coils. Verify the integrity of the circuit between the low side of each coil back to the PCM. If those are all correct, then it's probably a PCM failure.