brew are you resting the rotors on wooden blocks?!?!?

 

Yes sir!

Two MicroLamb blocks - Only problem with that - You freakin hit your head on the damn hood all the time when exiting the engine compartment

 

Good idea Mr. Brew. Too much trouble to remove the hood, too?

Have used a 2x12 run across the bay, or cutting the corners, and two step ladders. 5 gallon bucket to stand up on and then lean in across the 2X12. Takes a little pressure of the back and knees.

Always looking at other ideas to make it more simple.

Thanks.

 

Yea , I did remove the hood once - I won't do it again. It's a mother to get lined up perfectly again , and I even outline the hinge hardware in marker before I removed.

I did the 2x12 thing w/milk cartons and they still wanted to take off on me. I wasn't that far from the back wall in the shop - I chopped a couple 2x6's to length - From the cartons to back wall. They didn't budge after that

 

I didn't remove the rail on the passenger side but the driver's side is a must unless you have all the right tools to get the COP bolts and plugs out. Magnetic or magnetized sockets are almost a must because if you drop a bolt down under the intake, its pretty much a goner. I dropped a socket down there and had to use an old stainless radio antenna and a magnet out of a hard drive to fish it out. Wasn't going to lose my good Craftsman tools without a fight. On the other note, I usually sit under the hood and lean over and I'm 5' 11". Its a pain but it beats the extra work of taking the wheels off or slipping off a crate. BTW the first time I changed the plugs, I pulled the fuel rail and the injectors came out with the rail. I broke an injector tip during the reinstall when I tried to get it out of the rail and inserted back into the head. It slipped out of my hand and shattered as it hit the motor. Cost me an extra $60.

 

$60!!! - That's what I paid for a whole set of Type 3's NEW.

If your referring to the brown end caps - There called "Hat's" - Those were $8 for a set of 10 "Hats", but $14 for the freakin O-rings. - I had to get a 10 pac , it was all they had - But those hats like to fall inside the manifold ports - The Type 3's don't have that problem, much better design IMO.

So what broke exactly ? The hat ? I don't know how a an injector tip can break. I don't think I could bust one if I tried by the looks of it.

 

guys, you're STill thinking about it the wrong way... put up in front of as steep of a curve you can..no sliding..


UNLESS you're like me, then it's just a piece of cake already having the truck lowered...

 

The little brown hat. It was on a Saturday and I was desperate to get it back going with no time to order off the internet. Now that I know they sell the little hats, I can replace it; I didn't throw the injector away.....I rarely throw things away unless they are completely trashed.
Ok, Ok I'm a packrat

 

Yea , but where did the old one get to ? If you can't find it , guess where it is..

 

Uh that sounds bad

 

Its in a ziplock bag in the top of my roll around tool box.

 

- That's good

 

JBrew is this Tech pretty accurate? https://www.f150online.com/forums/li...parkplugs.html ,I want to change my plugs out at 60k on my 99 5.4L F150 really never thought about pulling front wheels to gain better access great idea especially on 4x4.Kind of scared me now about pulling fuel rails don't want any thing breaking does advance auto carries these injector parts if I do or do u have to go to ford dealer? And last would you stay with factory plugs or is there a better choice, all stock, no mods.Thanks Steve

 

Motorcraft Plugs ONLY- Not Autolites. Theres nothing you can break - Maybe a bolt , but I doubt it.