I have a 4.6 liter V8 2001 F-150 and I am having the hardest time in the world changing the spark plugs.

At the present time, I have spent in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours and I have only been able to remove one spark plug, and I can't get the replacement one to get in.

I have enlisted the help of a friend, (whose knowledge of vehicle maintenence surpasses my own,..... but not by much)

I will just call his name Tom, because his name is Tom.

And together that is the sum total of our accomplishments.

I have a Haynes Manual, I have researched the procedure online, and everyone says it's a pain in the neck to do.

Any DETAILED help you can give would be GREATLY appreciated.

P.S, Tom Betterton sucks.

-Thank you.


(This is a serious question, I am at the point of murdering someone, so far I have narrowed the list to a select few, I am very sure they would appreciate any help that you can give me)

 

Follow the procedure in this article as tho you have a 5.4L . The 4.6L referenced in this "how to" has a completely different ignition system than your 4.6L. The 5.4L is identical -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/li...parkplugs.html

 

there's not much to them... make sure you have some swivel joints for your extensions on your sockets... and make sure you blow the holes out with compressed air first because if not all the trash you have will fall down the hole--not good.

basically going to need an 8mm, 10mm, and a spark plug sock, 1/2 socket, about 2 swivel joints (better make it about 20 for ya'll) and approximately 6 foot of extension for your socket... length depends on how fast your friend can run when he breaks one off and you start chasing him... i had a fat friend

 

Just so you know, The plug wells are not straight up and down. The passenger side plugs are angled towards the rear and the driver side towards the front. Going straight up will result in difficulty in starting the plug and or cross threading. Cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 on the passenger side starting with #1 in the front of the engine and 4 at the rear. The driver side has #5 through 8 with #5 at the front.

The Fuel pressure regulator on the driver side restricts access to the #7 plug. Removing the fuel rail and pushing it to the side makes it a lot easier. I never use swivel joints during plug removal and install. I unfasten the fuel rails and pop them off the injectors, leaving the injectors in the intake manifold, and push the rail to the side out of the way. Do not worry about any spilled gasoline as it will have time to evaporate before you are done the plugs. This eliminates the need for any swivel joints. Press on the shrader valve to relieve the pressure in the rail before pulling up on it to pop it off the injectors. Use rags if you want to sop up any gasoline. I don't but that is just me.

I use a spark plug socket two three inch extensions and one six inch extension. At the rear where space is limited I use the socket with a 3 inch extension and fit it over the plug. This makes it easier because the six inch is too tall. That will make the top of the three inch extension almost flush with the plug well in the head.Then I put the second three inch extension on and loosen the plug. Remove the second three inch extension and there is enough room to pull up and remove the plug from the plug well. Install the plug in reverse order. You can also remove the first three extension once the socket is far enough out of the plug well to hold on to it if you need to. As I get closer to the front I use the six inch extension instead of the two three inch ones. When reinstalling the fuel rain you should lube the injector O rings with engine oil. A little dab is all that is needed. If you are a messy worker cover the top of the injectors with a rag so you don't spill any crap on them. Some people use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs but again I don't. I go by feel.

JMC

 

Damn dude , I might even use this one

Wait !! What if he looses a hat and it remains inside the manifold after the injector decides to stick in the frame rail when pulling.

I hate it when that happens

 

Turn the injector a ½ a turn and back to loosen it from the rail and hold it down when pulling. If one of the injectors pulls out of the manifold I always inspect it because I have to lube the bottom O ring anyways. If the hat is missing fish it out.

JMC

 

I'll be the odd one out and say don't mess with the fuel rail, it's not necessary. I do use sockets with universal joints on them, and a 6" (I believe) extension to get to #4. Everything else, you can get with a long (I use an 18") extension and a universal jointed socket. A piece of 3/8" vacuum hose, about 8-10" long, helps in threading the new plugs in without crossthreading them.

 

...maybe someone who can answer my question will see it or get an email about it. I'm changing the plugs and COPS on my 2001 F150 4.6L. I had to pull the fuel rail on the driver's side to get at #7. In the process, the #6 injector pulled from the manifold. There is what appears to be a ceramic 'cup' sitting in the bottom of the injector port. This 'cup' is cracked in half, and I'm guessing it needs to be replaced? If so, are these 'cups' available individually (where?) or do I have replace the injector? Thanks.

 

sounds like you need to replace the injector itself

 

Yea, they have a tendency to fall off or break off. Actually you don't have to get new injectors, - FFI/RJM has EV1 service kits for about $20. Includes the Pintle Caps.

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/inj-kit

I found a set of design 3 19 lb bosch injectors online once that happened to me. They have a better type Pintle cap that doesn't fall off. The spray patterns a little different as well, ie - more holes.

 

Since the truck is my daily driver, I had to go the new injector route to get it back on the road. Otherwise, I would've ordered the $20 service kit and waited. I feel like I'm still way ahead though.

A couple of years ago, my brother had the local dealership replace two plugs/COPS on his F150 to the tune of about $750. Even after paying $65 for the new injector, I've only got a little over $200 in parts for all new Motorcraft platinum plugs and Global COPS.

Now I just need to run the 3M Fuel System Cleaner kit through it, change the oil, and hope I'm done with the low speed hesitation/misfires for a good long while. I don't think I would've tried this without all the excellent info I picked up in this forum. Quintin's tip about using a piece of vacuum hose to thread the plugs back in was priceless.

Thanks to all again.

 

I got lucky and found a guy a ebay parting out a new 4.6 engine. I purchased the coils, injectors and engine harness. I can't recall what I paid for the engine harness, but the coils were $60, injectors were $65 for the set. All new stuff, just couldn't sell as new since they were take-offs.

I haven't seen any new 5fours on ebay, - Oh wait, I did see one new 2003 lightning engine, just once, put my bid in, but it went for two times my offer lol. Anyway, once in awhile you'll see a crate 4.6L from the Romeo plant being parted out.

So even if it's gotta be new and you need it fast, it doesn't hurt to check and see what's out there first. You can usually get stuff shipped within a couple days if need be.

Check here as well. There's allot guys with great resources that share info.