Need some help plz, cant get last plug out on passenger side ...
#1
Need some help plz, cant get last plug out on passenger side ...
Well, I started my plug change at ~10am with the first three plugs on passenger side coming out with no issues. I removed the battey and the computer? box/bracket then I took it slow making sure I didnt break anything as there is alot of crap in the way.
I used my cordless impact to remove the plugs except that last one as I didnt have any clearance. For that one I used the OTC extension, a universal swivel joint, extension and a socket wrench. It took me a few minutes to break it loose as I didnt want to break the plug. Once finally loose, I continued to twist slowly until it seemed that the plug should be out. I pulled the socket out but no plug. I can wiggle the tip and have tried damn near everything I can think of to grab it but no luck. Currently, I've got a small mirror back there (no rocks that I can see) and I have a small piece of hose attached down the insulator as far as I can push it. It turns and wobbles but still stuck. I'm starting to get paranoid that somehow I have dorked up the hex nut or somehow stripped something in a way that prevents it from coming out. Is there something else I should remove to make some more room back there and has anyone had anything like this happen? Even if it was broke I would have expected a piece to come out.
I will probably move on to the other side to at least get as many done as possible before needing a new engine
I used my cordless impact to remove the plugs except that last one as I didnt have any clearance. For that one I used the OTC extension, a universal swivel joint, extension and a socket wrench. It took me a few minutes to break it loose as I didnt want to break the plug. Once finally loose, I continued to twist slowly until it seemed that the plug should be out. I pulled the socket out but no plug. I can wiggle the tip and have tried damn near everything I can think of to grab it but no luck. Currently, I've got a small mirror back there (no rocks that I can see) and I have a small piece of hose attached down the insulator as far as I can push it. It turns and wobbles but still stuck. I'm starting to get paranoid that somehow I have dorked up the hex nut or somehow stripped something in a way that prevents it from coming out. Is there something else I should remove to make some more room back there and has anyone had anything like this happen? Even if it was broke I would have expected a piece to come out.
I will probably move on to the other side to at least get as many done as possible before needing a new engine
#6
I haven't gone back to it ... after a break (to regain some sanity before I emptied a friggin .40 cal clip into the damn thing) I went on to the driver's side. Of course a Murphy's Law would have it that one broke. So I got familiar with the Lisle tool. I know the manual says to ensure that the porcelain breaks flush but I couldn't be sure. I'm not sure it did and as a result I had to crunch down with the pusher, pull it, vacuum, rinse/repeat. Eventually I got it pushed down and then was able to use the other part and pull the broken piece out. After that I said fugit and went to dinner ... fat guys gotta eat! I will resume tomorrow, I hate that I can't start the truck to warm it up ... those first 3 sure were easy.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Finally got the plug out earlier this morning. Ended up putting the socket back on and tightened it a little and then loosening and it came out (broke). Even though it had broken, it wasnt a clean break and a small amount of metal was still attached. Wouldnt have been so hard if it had not been the rear passenger one that my meathooks cant get near. Used the lisle to get the rest out but I couldn't see that there must have been more porcelain or electrode then the flush break they require via the manual. Because of this by cranking the pusher down all the way, it broke the end electrode strap. The strap stayed attached but I was concerned that the electrode tip and some porcelain got into the cylinder. I used my telescoping magnet and a tube attached to the vacuum to get in there but who knows if that was enough?! I want to put the new one in and reattach computer and battery so I can warm it up to do driver's side ... hope it safe! I saw somewhere that someone disconnected the fuel injector and turned over the engine a couple of times to blow out anything left ... anyone think that is a good idea? Thanks again for the help, moral support, etc. ... I need a friigin bottle o' JD and a splash of coke.
#9
You can also adjust piston location within the cylinder, to assist with vacuum extraction. Unless you have something like this -
Great idea, go get one.
#10
Well, they are all done and the engine runs good! Overall, I spent 2.5-3 hours with 5 plugs that didn't break and no idea how long on the other three. The worst ones were the two in the back of the heads ... I just don't have small enough hands to much in there. I also wasnt able to use the impact gun on those which may be the reason they broke. The other one I broke wasn prb because the motor was cold and I used my air impact (accidentally on 90 psi instead of 60 psi) while my batteries were charging for the cordless.
One thing for sure is that the Lisle tool is a lifesaver ... I will be selling it soon as there is no way in hell I'm doing this **** again! I swap miles between the truck and the harley so I put 8-10k miles per year on the truck and I'll have a newer one before ten years is up. Other than that, I got a crapload of nickel anti-seize left if ya need some Now, to get something "warm" to drink ... later!
One thing for sure is that the Lisle tool is a lifesaver ... I will be selling it soon as there is no way in hell I'm doing this **** again! I swap miles between the truck and the harley so I put 8-10k miles per year on the truck and I'll have a newer one before ten years is up. Other than that, I got a crapload of nickel anti-seize left if ya need some Now, to get something "warm" to drink ... later!