The vacuum reservoir behind the fender is the engine vacuum reservoir. The one behind the battery is for the A/C and 4x4. It is there to supplement the vacuum to the PCM controlled vacuum solenoids. I suspect the IAC. It is attached to the throttle body elbow. How did you clean it? You might want to check the bypass hose going to the IAC for obstructions/ leaks. That should be the hose with the little square box attached to it.

JMC

 

I did put it on craig's list this morning but if I can get that little misfire figured out I will keep it. Will check the PCV because that is one thing that has been overlooked. EGR is new, MAF cleaned. Here is listing if anyone in Pac. NW is interested...

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/car/504800470.html

 

No one is going to be able to figure out your problem without acurate testing. Selling a perfectly good truck because of a misfire w/ warm is a dumb thing to do, IMO. If you took it to a Technician who knew what they were doing in the frirst place, you wouldn't have this problem and would have probably cost you less in the long run (at least the testing anyway). Certain parameters need to be checked to know what the computer is seeing from the different components and sensors, for one example, Are the oxygen sensor voltage readings 0 when the problem occurs, causing a misfire "feel" and not a true misfire? That is one thing a professional would do instead of replacing parts without knowing if it will fix it. Help forums can be a good thing to aid in certain types of issues but not all of them. I recomend going to a professional unless you wanted a new vehicle anyway.

 

Professional is a relative term. Having professionals that supposedly "guarantee" their work is what got me to the frusterated point I am. I agree that a good and experienced professional mechanic should have been able to find the problem but after wasting money on one that is supposedly experienced and is a certified "master technician" (ASE or whatever) I will not spend any more money on them. Period. Thanks for your input but that is not an option for me. If I were not new to this area and was aware of a good mechanic I could trust I would definately feel differently about it because as you know it can be a night and day difference from one mechanic to another.

 

Exactly!

But you can't "LABEL" a certified mechanic as the know-it-all. I am sure some of our best helpers and informers on here are not certified. (ASE that is) Ford hires certified mechanics all the time, and still FLUB up.

Many people's mistakes (when they don't do their own work) is walking in a business that WORKS on vehicles, is that they know what they are doing. I have been in too many to inform you that, that is not the case.

But, I wouldn't give up on the truck yet, unless you just want another vehicle. Many series of tests will need to be made to determine the faults here. And most likely, it will be a no brainer when it gets fixed. But, bypassing thigs normally don't work out. These aren't the old trucks we could take off all the vacuume hoses but a few and they would run.

 

When I use the term Professional it means someone that knows what they are doing and stands behind their work. Unfortunately, some people refer to it as a place like Autozone or Pep Boys etc...... Which are not professionals but people (often high schoolers) who are paid by corporate "big wigs" to offer code checking (not Diagnosis) and installation of bulbs and such wich in turn ruins it for the ones that know what they are doing. Sorry to hear that the techs you chose were not able to find the problem and didn't stand behind what they did do. I wish you the best of luck.

 

I read thru the thread again - Let me say , I trust these forums a hell of alot more dealership .. First thing they will do is mode 6 it , only to determine for themselves what you already know. Then they will run ......Nevermind . you just don't want to go there ...

Hey , your running stock coil pacs. Weighing in what has been said and what you have replaced, I bet the windings in one or both coil pacs are starting to breakdown. Enough to cause the problem . Did it do this before you bypassed the Engine vac canister ?

Check the PCV , but I bet it's a coil pac..

 

If they don't know what there doing - who pays for that ? You guessed it.. The chances are pretty good that will happen.

 

I hear you, but, Just because they work at a dealer doesn't mean that a Certified Technician is going to work on your vehicle and they have to go through a service writer/manager who usually doesn't have a clue about cars and tells the tech what to do. Politics. Also, no one said a Certified Technician does know it all (but many do). As for the businesses that mock that they know what they are doing is exacly why it ruins the good name some Techs worked so hard for.

 

That's where the FLUB UP COMES IN!

LOL

 

"Flub up" such a nice way to say it.

 

Have you changed the plug wires?I had engine shimmer at about 45 mph after it warmed up, turned out to be a bad #3 plug wire.

 

Yeah, just keep haning parts on it. Lets not find out what's wrong. Who pays for that, i mean he has paid for that. Do not go to a dealership, you need to talk to people in your area to find a trusted shop to diagnose your truck properly. Not saying it could'nt be a coil, but replacing everything is a stupid way to diagnose a problem. Mode 5 & 6 will tell you what's wrong with it, why is that a bad thing? People that don't know how to use are affraid of it. I would'nt listen to this guy saaber, false info costs more in the long run. But go ahead and hang parts if thats what you want to do.

 

easy brew

 

You Dumb A$$. He's not listening to you , he as much said that politely IMO.

Replacing 10 year old coils is the best tune up you can give these trucks. The ignition systems are crucial in performance and economy. The things you have mentioned , 9 times out of 10 would have produced a MIL . If the OP or anyone else actually listened to your lack of knowledge , they would be digging deep in their pockets possibly for no reason.

He could have a new ignition system and forward O2's installed by himself for what they charge just to stress test it , let alone diagnose why the cylinder history don't compute. You think they don't throw parts at it ?? Are they your Saviour ?? Someone has to be because your bull****s transparent.

This Forums the best compared to taking your truck anywhere to troubleshoot. You cut us down.. You gain more knowledge and know how here reading from past posters who's problems were solved by good people who frequent this sit to help someone out. Your not one of them , so don't pretend to be. - F OFF!

BTW - It's Mode 6 Then Channel 3 - TECHDOC my a$$..