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  #1  
Old 11-05-2007, 10:00 PM
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e fans keep blowing fuses

So I pieced together my own e fan kit with for now just a single 16 inch fan. I know its hooked up properly because it would work for a while than quit once the fuse was blown.

On the fan it says: PM 250 12V 92 (there is a big dot right beside the 92) It also has an arrow under where the "250" pointing to the outside and that says "black" inside it. There is also an arrow under the "12v" pointing the other way that says "orange" inside it.

My relay says:

12v 40/60 A
BU-5083W-0000
BEULER R (the R is circled)

I imagine I need another relay but I don't know what to get.
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2007, 10:17 PM
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What size fuse are you running, remember that the initial amperage of the fan is going to exceed the running amperage due to the momentum need to overcome static friction in the ball bearing.

As far as the relay from what you posed it looks like a 12 volt 40-60 amp relay. Its good to use a relay rated for higher than what you are using, a lower amp relay could either blow or weld itself shut and permanently engauge itself.

The other numbers look like the serial number and the manufacture name Beuler.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2007, 10:22 PM
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It used to be a 25 amp fuse in there it blew a lot. So I upped it to a 30 amp which would actually work once in a while but still blows it quite often.
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  #4  
Old 11-06-2007, 07:57 AM
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A single 16 should run on a 30 amp, unless it's either a) faulty, or b) a hi-po unit wound to draw more current.

If your wiring and relay are sized correctly, try a 40 amp fuse. If that blows, you have a faulty fan.


BTW - initial inrush current can be several times the run current, not only to overcome static friction, but because it's an inductive load. That's why slo-blo fuses and circuit breakers exist.

Here's probably the highest perf 16" fan you can buy - note the steady-state draw (26 amps), a 40 amp fuse is a must for this one.

http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../0845-2113.pdf

And, here's a more normal high-quality 16" - draw is 22 amps, so a 30-35 amp fuse should be sufficient.

http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate...heets/2082.pdf


I'm already on record as advising against ebay specials - sorry.

Last edited by MGDfan; 11-06-2007 at 08:34 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2007, 10:20 AM
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Post

x2 :)
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2007, 10:38 AM
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My TP e-fan kit kept blowing fuses too. I think it had something to do with getting moisture in the fuse holder because both of my link line fuse holders BURNED within a few weeks of each other. When I say burned I mean the centers melted out of them, melted the wires on the side of one, and crunchy stuff fell out of the center of the link. You can see right through them. Remember that those fans can pull 31+ amps at startup and 19 continuous. :fyi:
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2007, 01:40 AM
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after looking long and hard for a 40 amp flat blade fuse I just bought one of those 30 amp circuit breakers that plug into the fuse holder and its working like a charm again.
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2007, 01:51 AM
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nice the wire i used when wireing mine up had a fuse in it and it was only a 15 or 20 AMP fuse i forget but it worked fine when the truck was off. but when i started it and turned um on it blew. switched it for a 30AMP. no probs at all.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2007, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDfan
BTW - initial inrush current can be several times the run current, not only to overcome static friction, but because it's an inductive load. That's why slo-blo fuses and circuit breakers exist.
I have fusible link wires on mine :D :)
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2007, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
after looking long and hard for a 40 amp flat blade fuse I just bought one of those 30 amp circuit breakers that plug into the fuse holder and its working like a charm again.
I wired in a 30a circuit breaker after the fuse holder melted, and it works fine.
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Old 11-20-2007, 09:41 AM


 
 
 
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