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  #1  
Old 09-21-2007, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 126
Rebuilding my 5.4L, need help on performance parts

On my 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4, i'm going to have the motor rebuilt. As far as upgrading the motor i need your guys' help.

My goal is somewhere around 100HP/lb ft. over stock at the crank - so if it has 260 at the crank i would like to at least make 360 with NO power adders. Also, we have to remeber that this truck is used for a DD and towing a cargo trailor so i have to have good torque and reliability.

-As far as rebuilding goes, what old parts should be replaced with new?

-Can you replace the 2v heads with 3 or 4 valve heads?

-What about cams - i would defenitly want a little bit of "lope"

-Does anyone offer a good stroker kit - that would greatly help the TQ side.

-Long tube headers are already in the works, would i need different headers with 3v or 4v heads?

-Any other suggestions?

I need your guys' help, this project is going to start soon!

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2007, 05:54 PM
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Location: Tomball, TX
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just go with a good set of forged rods, peformance bearings, and forged pistons. Go low compression if you plan on boost, or go with about 10.5:1 CR if you plan on staying N/A and do not mind buying 93 octane.

Headers are worth it, especially if you will have the motor out of the truck.

Get a good port job for the heads, and consult the head porter / engine builder on a cam for your combination. I am not sure you will make your goal numbers on a 5.4 N/A, while keeping it streetable and reliable, but you should gain enough to make you happy.
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2007 F150 Supercrew Lariat
2003 Mustang Cobra #283 built 05/31/2002 (Sold 07/25/2007)

The Problem Is Not With Guns. Itís Hearts Without God, Homes Without Discipline, Schools Without Prayer, and Courts Without Justice.

Strange times are these in which we live when old and young are taught falsehoods in school. And the one man that dares to tell the truth is called at once a lunatic and fool.
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  #3  
Old 09-21-2007, 05:58 PM
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4 value heads outta a Navi would be your best bet as far as heads.

They flow better than 03-04 Cobra heads, If Im not mistakend.
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  #4  
Old 09-21-2007, 06:09 PM
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there is a 6.2 stroker kit out there but it costs 6 grand

talk to mike dunn about the 32 valve head swap, it'll be easier to just rebuild a navi motor and use the F-150 oil pan

with a good build 9higher compression pistons, intake, cam combo with 42# injectors you can get over 400 hp and tq without any boost

look at the '00 cobra R mustang, 5.4 engien 385 and 385 revved to 6,500 rpms

PM me if you want more info on the swap
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  #5  
Old 09-21-2007, 06:49 PM
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Cool

HI!... I'll post this link anyway. I already know that OFTEN WRONG 150 (FASTER150) will chime in and start crap as usual, because he doesn't have the faintest idea what he's talking about when it comes to these modular engines...........

Anyway here's the link to my built 5.4 build up. I had my share of problems with it but 100% of those problems were caused by a incompetant engine builder who built the short block.

THE H.P FREAK'S "SUPER FREAK" 5.4 BUILD UP!! (pics)
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"1999" F-150 XLT SPORT, BUILT 5.4, all N/A.
354RWH.P/392RWTQ (no tune, yet) on 8 cylinders/ 1/8= 8.4, 13.60E.T (on 7 cylinders, broken ring in #5), 1.8 60FT.

"2007" FORD RANGER SPORT, EC, SB, 4X2, 4.0L. 1/8= 8.8, 13.83E.T
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2007, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal
HI!... I'll post this link anyway. I already know that OFTEN WRONG 150 (FASTER150) will chime in and start crap as usual, because he doesn't have the faintest idea what he's talking about when it comes to these modular engines...........

Anyway here's the link to my built 5.4 build up. I had my share of problems with it but 100% of those problems were caused by a incompetant engine builder who built the short block.

THE H.P FREAK'S "SUPER FREAK" 5.4 BUILD UP!! (pics)
In your signature it says you had over 350 RWHP out of your old N/A 5.4. Could you tell me how you accomplished that? Was it ok for a DD and reliable? How was the low end torque? Was anything done to the transmission to accomidate for that type of power (assuming you have the 4r70w like i do).

You can PM me if you dont want to post it.

Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2007, 12:59 PM
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Anyone elese?
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2007, 01:01 PM
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Apparently i cant access the private messaging, if anyone wants to email me information per this thread it is - slickness54@aol.com

Thanks,

Mark.
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2007, 05:13 PM
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the 4r70w can stand some more abuse with a shift kit if your worried. put one in my truck and it firmed it up real nice. waiting to see how it handles a big punch from somethin other than the 4.6 at 192.5k

i took a 5.4 and rebuilt it, granted i went with a blown app but i still was looking at na beforehand. i was going to go with a forged bottom end with a higher compression ratio with port and polished 2v heads. comp cams 270ah has a light lope thats noticeable. dont overlook the little things.
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2007, 09:34 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05HarleySD4x4
In your signature it says you had over 350 RWHP out of your old N/A 5.4. Could you tell me how you accomplished that? Was it ok for a DD and reliable? How was the low end torque? Was anything done to the transmission to accomidate for that type of power (assuming you have the 4r70w like i do).

You can PM me if you dont want to post it.

Thanks.
HI!... My truck was a daily driver. Drove it back and forth to work everyday and raced it on the weekends. If you read through the entire thread that I post, it shows how 354RWH.P was accomplished. The low end TQ was plenty. Enough so that if I didn't run NITTO 305/45/18's, traction was hard too find. I'm running a fully race built 4R70-W with P.I 3000 stall converter.
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"1999" F-150 XLT SPORT, BUILT 5.4, all N/A.
354RWH.P/392RWTQ (no tune, yet) on 8 cylinders/ 1/8= 8.4, 13.60E.T (on 7 cylinders, broken ring in #5), 1.8 60FT.

"2007" FORD RANGER SPORT, EC, SB, 4X2, 4.0L. 1/8= 8.8, 13.83E.T
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  #11  
Old 09-23-2007, 10:14 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Farmington, MO
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150
Posts: 6,280
I Have 105hp over stock, mods are in sig
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2007, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 126
Thanks for the replies guys, it helps.

Built54 - I see you have the 102500's, how is the lope at idle? I know Modular motors dont lope like OHV motors, but is it noticeable? I defenitly want something with at least a little bit of lope to it.

Along with the 102500's i am also looking at the
- 102535
- 102200
- 102530

Idk why COMP makes so many cams for this application, but can anyone tell me the difference between the four? Their website isint very descriptive.

Thanks.
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2007, 11:35 PM
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Cool

HI!... My advice to you is do not buy boxed cams. Figure out what mods your going to do and call COMP CAMS up directly and talk to their cam department. Give their cam tech guy your info and he will tell you if one of their boxed cams would suit your application or like me have a custom grind made for your application. My custom cams are very high lift and you can barely notice them at idle. Theres a slight rumble but nothing to write home about. Makes for a great sleeper! LOL!
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"1999" F-150 XLT SPORT, BUILT 5.4, all N/A.
354RWH.P/392RWTQ (no tune, yet) on 8 cylinders/ 1/8= 8.4, 13.60E.T (on 7 cylinders, broken ring in #5), 1.8 60FT.

"2007" FORD RANGER SPORT, EC, SB, 4X2, 4.0L. 1/8= 8.8, 13.83E.T
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford302Redneck
4 value heads outta a Navi would be your best bet as far as heads.

They flow better than 03-04 Cobra heads, If Im not mistakend.
Navigator, Marauder, 03-04 Cobra, and Mach 1 heads are the same.
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2007, 08:28 AM
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Location: Farmington, MO
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150
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my idle is noticeable, its a great sound, but just enough to tell it has cams. Some dont notice, others do.
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:28 AM


 
 
 
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