setting timing on 4.6
#19
#20
if you haven't started the engine, you haven't built any oil pressure into the tensioners yet. This is normal for a dry tensioner and will correct itself once it gets pumped up
#21
Caution!
Ok Listen up. I have built/toredown hundreds of these 4.6 engines. A lot of good info above but here is the easiest way I've found. Before you remove the chains on these engines rotate the crankshaft so the keyway is at 12:00. At this location all the pistons are down far enough in the bores so you can't bend the valves when you rotate the cams with chains removed. Now do not, I repeat do not move the crank again until the cyl heads are reinstalled and both chains with tensioners etc.are completely reinstalled and tensioner release pins are removed. Remove the chain tensioners,chains, cyl heads, etc. Do whatever you have to do to work on the engine. Now reinstall the cyl heads. Look for two off colored chain links on each chain. These start out as copper color but get discolored as the engine ages. If you cannot find them then mark one link and count equal number of links from that link and mark it also. You want the same number of links between both timing marks on the same chain. Now install one the chain with the chain timing mark on the CRANK timing gear timing dot. Move the chain by hand up to the cam timing gear and rotate the cam gear ONLY (use wrench on cam gear bolt) to line up the timing chain link with the cam gear timing dot. Install the tensioner leaving the tensioner retaining pin in place yet. Now perform the same for the rightside head. Visually recheck that all 4 chain timing marks are lined up with all four gear marks. Then release the tensioner pins. You can now rotate the entire engine by hand. If everything was done right you are now in perfect time and no valves have been bent. My concern with your engine right now is that you may have bent valves. Look for valve marks on the piston domes. Even if there is a slight mark where a valve hit the piston dome the valve is probably bent and will have to be replaced. I wrote version of this procedure up for the Ford repair manual years ago but it was rejected because I was told Ford wanted to sell the cam retainer tools to the dealers. Good luck.
Thank you very much for this procedure. I changed the timing chains on this truck about 200,000 miles ago and did not realize that many of the manufacturers have went to a one piece crankshaft sprocket. I fought this little procedure for about four hours before I realized my mistake.
Thanks again for sharing this awesome procedure.
Chuck
Last edited by chuck gibson; 04-10-2016 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Added the word CAUTION so others would not make my mistake.
#22
Timing
I just replaced the left cylinder head after lapping the valves and replacing the stem seals. I reinstalled the head (new gasket) and installed a new timing chain kit (sprockets, chains, tensioners, and guides). Lined up all timing marks and released the tensioner holding pins. Before putting everything back together I decided to turn the crank to see if I was free of obstructions and I am not able to turn the crank more than 250 degrees either way. What have I hit?? I tried looking at my cam lobes to pinpoint the valves that are depressed and even put a screwdriver in the pulg hole to see if my valves were bottoming out at TDC. Any suggestions?
#23
I just replaced the left cylinder head after lapping the valves and replacing the stem seals. I reinstalled the head (new gasket) and installed a new timing chain kit (sprockets, chains, tensioners, and guides). Lined up all timing marks and released the tensioner holding pins. Before putting everything back together I decided to turn the crank to see if I was free of obstructions and I am not able to turn the crank more than 250 degrees either way. What have I hit?? I tried looking at my cam lobes to pinpoint the valves that are depressed and even put a screwdriver in the pulg hole to see if my valves were bottoming out at TDC. Any suggestions?