stalling, what the dealer said...
#1
stalling, what the dealer said...
Hi Guys,
Last November I posted about my 1998 F150 4.6 stalling out. The CEL comes on and the relay for the fuel pump and the idle air control valve sound like a cricket. I replaced the IAC and cleaned the throttle body. The problem went away for a little bit but it stalled a couple of times.
Now, less than a thousand miles later it happened again. It was on the road, I got it cranked back up but it cut off after a minute so I gave up and towed it to Sheehy Ford in Ashland Va. They called this morning and said "Our computer says you need a new starter and battery." I told them the starter is ok and the battery is a year and a half old. They said "the computer said starter and battery."
I asked them to take a look at the emissions system because I feel the trouble lies there. They said- well you know...starter and battery- 500 bucks. Some customer service huh?
I told them no work was approved and I'll be down shortly to pay them for their time and to remove the truck from the lot.
Anyway, it stalls, the check engine light flickers at the same time the idle air control valve and the fuel pump relay make noise.
Any ideas? The ealer sure has no clue. I'm going to try and get it home one way or the other.
Thanks,
Bert
Last November I posted about my 1998 F150 4.6 stalling out. The CEL comes on and the relay for the fuel pump and the idle air control valve sound like a cricket. I replaced the IAC and cleaned the throttle body. The problem went away for a little bit but it stalled a couple of times.
Now, less than a thousand miles later it happened again. It was on the road, I got it cranked back up but it cut off after a minute so I gave up and towed it to Sheehy Ford in Ashland Va. They called this morning and said "Our computer says you need a new starter and battery." I told them the starter is ok and the battery is a year and a half old. They said "the computer said starter and battery."
I asked them to take a look at the emissions system because I feel the trouble lies there. They said- well you know...starter and battery- 500 bucks. Some customer service huh?
I told them no work was approved and I'll be down shortly to pay them for their time and to remove the truck from the lot.
Anyway, it stalls, the check engine light flickers at the same time the idle air control valve and the fuel pump relay make noise.
Any ideas? The ealer sure has no clue. I'm going to try and get it home one way or the other.
Thanks,
Bert
#2
#3
#5
Hi Guys,
Once I calmed down I ringed up the dealer and spoke with the tech (no more mechanics I guess). First thing he said was it starter's got bad wiring. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt on that since it is a ten year old truck now. I advised him that it never has a problem turning over and I described what has gone on. He asked if I had told the service advisor all that and I said "Yup." Then he said that's not what he had been told, the ticket he had said just starting problem.
He said he was going out to put it in the shop again and wanted my direct number.
Fuel mileage is now about 16 MPG. This stalling happens sometimes right after you start the vehicle and sometimes when you're driving. It happened once when I was towing a six inch commercial chipper. I've replaced the relay and fuse and carry the originals in the glove box. My factory service manuals list all kinds of checks to go through. I hope Ford knows about them.
I really believe the problem lies in the fuel management/emissions system. The dealer knows that now too. I'll let you know what goes on. 5 big ones for a starter and a battery, I told them they're nuts, the battery is less than a year and a half old but I'll check it myself.
Once I calmed down I ringed up the dealer and spoke with the tech (no more mechanics I guess). First thing he said was it starter's got bad wiring. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt on that since it is a ten year old truck now. I advised him that it never has a problem turning over and I described what has gone on. He asked if I had told the service advisor all that and I said "Yup." Then he said that's not what he had been told, the ticket he had said just starting problem.
He said he was going out to put it in the shop again and wanted my direct number.
Fuel mileage is now about 16 MPG. This stalling happens sometimes right after you start the vehicle and sometimes when you're driving. It happened once when I was towing a six inch commercial chipper. I've replaced the relay and fuse and carry the originals in the glove box. My factory service manuals list all kinds of checks to go through. I hope Ford knows about them.
I really believe the problem lies in the fuel management/emissions system. The dealer knows that now too. I'll let you know what goes on. 5 big ones for a starter and a battery, I told them they're nuts, the battery is less than a year and a half old but I'll check it myself.
#6
I just remembered something weird. Last time it happened while driving I noticed the RPMs stayed up there but the truck just coasted to a stop and died. Upon trying to restart the CEL blinked and the fuel pump relay clicked.
When I did get it restarted it seemed to get locked in second gear. Lucky I was fairly close to home. Later on it worked fine. Does that make any sense? Should I have them flush/refill and change the tranny filter?
When I did get it restarted it seemed to get locked in second gear. Lucky I was fairly close to home. Later on it worked fine. Does that make any sense? Should I have them flush/refill and change the tranny filter?
#7
I don't mean to be critical but your not giving any sound discription of what's happening so reasonable advice can be formulated.
Has any attempt to read stored codes been done?
How is normal cold starting?
How is hot starts?
How are you determining what relays you hear making noise.
There has to be a starting pont to this or you get the results youve gotten so far. Said another way, someone has to be in ernest to want to work on the problem and not keep pasing it off so lightly.
Dealer test with a scanner attached and look at some parameters until the one that is causing the problem is shown. It takes times but if there is to be a fix, the cause must be found.
Has any attempt to read stored codes been done?
How is normal cold starting?
How is hot starts?
How are you determining what relays you hear making noise.
There has to be a starting pont to this or you get the results youve gotten so far. Said another way, someone has to be in ernest to want to work on the problem and not keep pasing it off so lightly.
Dealer test with a scanner attached and look at some parameters until the one that is causing the problem is shown. It takes times but if there is to be a fix, the cause must be found.
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#8
superchip looks like it went bad
Ok, got by the shop today and met with the mechanic. We went out and he showed how he got no readings on his diagnostic computer with the superchip installed. He did recognize the problem of stalling, hard starts and loss of power/hesitation when the gas pedal was depressed.
We pulled the chip and started it right up. His diagnostic PC showed everything normal except for a shorted out DPFE valve but that was not the cause of the problem. He monitored it for about ten minutes and then ran it out about town for awhile and bingo, problem's solved.
The chip was installed in 1999. I'l ask Mr Troyer at Superchip if it can be examained or maybe reflashed.
I've asked the Ford guys to pull the front rotors off and replace them (they are stuck on there like glue), flush the brake lines and rebleed, and flush the tranny and refill with a new filter. That ought to keep it going for a few more years.
We pulled the chip and started it right up. His diagnostic PC showed everything normal except for a shorted out DPFE valve but that was not the cause of the problem. He monitored it for about ten minutes and then ran it out about town for awhile and bingo, problem's solved.
The chip was installed in 1999. I'l ask Mr Troyer at Superchip if it can be examained or maybe reflashed.
I've asked the Ford guys to pull the front rotors off and replace them (they are stuck on there like glue), flush the brake lines and rebleed, and flush the tranny and refill with a new filter. That ought to keep it going for a few more years.
#9
so your talking about how the dealer is stupid to say it's the starter and the battery at a cost of $500 when you know that they are in fine shape. you solved the problem yourself, and your still going to go back to these a$$ monkeys?
i'd take it to a reputable repair shop. the dealer doesn't always have the brightest bulbs on the tree working there.
i'd take it to a reputable repair shop. the dealer doesn't always have the brightest bulbs on the tree working there.